How To: Install Mustang GT Stainless Power Long Tube Headers (15-17 5.0L)

Posted 10/12/2015 by Landan Durham

Increase horsepower and torque in your 15-17 S550 Mustang GT with a Stainless Power Long Tube Header Kit!

FOLLOW: mustang , s550 mustang , s550 , 2015 mustang , 2016 mustang , exhaust , stainless power , long tube , headers

Stainless Power Long Tube Headers

What and who is Stainless Power? Well, Stainless Power is a subsidiary of industry leader Stainless Works. Stainless Works specializes in high quality, stainless steel constructed exhaust systems manufactured from the finest materials for a perfect fit and finish into your Mustang.

Stainless Power’s headers will feature 1-7/8” primaries, a 304 stainless steel construction and will be available with high flow catalytic converters or an off-road option. Both kits will offer a factory connect style option which means it will bolt up directly to a stock cat back or an aftermarket cat back that is designed to work with a factory style connection as well.



Baseline Dyno

  • JLT Cold Air Intake
  • Bassani Mid-Muffler Catback Exhaust
  • Custom Tune
How To: Install Mustang GT Stainless Power Long Tube Headers (15-16 5.0L) - How To: Install Mustang GT Stainless Power Long Tube Headers (15-16 5.0L)

Required Tools

  • Lift or Jack and Jack Stands
  • Socket Set (1/4", 3/8", & 1/2")
  • Extensions
  • Wobble/Swivel Socket
  • Ratchet Wrenches
  • Stubby Ratchet Wrenches


Installation Instructions

  1. Before you begin, disconnect your negative battery cable.
  2. Removal of the intake system is optional.
  3. Place the car on a lift or jack stands as high as you can.
  4. We removed ours to allow for a little more light and to tighten or loosen any of the top bolts on the driver side.
  5. Now you can remove the two 15mm motor mount nuts on each side.
  6. A combination of several extensions and a wobble socket will help.
  7. Here you will need help from a friend; have them place the 15mm deep socket with a wobble socket and extensions onto the top mid-pipe to header nut; this is on the passenger side.
  8. Break it loose from the top and then remove it.
  9. Loosen, but do not remove the lower nut with a 15mm ratchet wrench.
  10. Support the muffler or catback with a jack or pole jack.
  11. Loosen the front exhaust sleeves with a 15mm deep socket.
  12. Loosen and remove the two 13mm bolts securing the exhaust hangers to the IRS subframe.
  13. Moving the rear, loosen the four 13mm bolts securing the rear exhaust hangers.
  14. Grab your buddy and separate the catback from the down pipes and sleeves.
  15. Take this time to disconnect the O2 sensors.
  16. There will be one located near the top of the passenger side valve cover; you can get this now, or wait until later.
  17. Now, remove the lower nut and get the passenger side down pipe out of the way.
  18. Loosen the driver side clamp connecting the factory catalytic converter pipe to the down or lead pipe with a 13 mm socket.
  19. Remove the driver side lead pipe from the car.
  20. Mark the steering shaft orientation with a paint pen or permanent marker.
  21. Remove the bolt with a T-40 Torx driver.
  22. Carefully separate the steering shaft from the rack and pinion.
  23. Now, use a series of two by fours accompanied with a jack or pole jack and lift the engine until the motor mount brackets clear the motor mound stud.
  24. When jacking from the oil pan, use extreme caution and always jack from the corner.
  25. Starting on the passenger side, remove the motor mount bracket hardware.
  26. The front most stud will have a ground attached to it.
  27. Remove the nut and then remove the stud.
  28. Do the same for the remaining bolts and stud in the passenger side motor mount bracket.
  29. The driver side will be the same except there will not be a ground; just two bolts and a stud.
  30. Moving back to the passenger side, remove the power wire cap on the starter and remove the nut securing the power wire.
  31. Do the same for the ground wire.
  32. Now, loosen and remove the three starter bolts with a 10mm socket.
  33. One of the starter bolts will be tough to see, however it can be removed extremely easy.
  34. Remove the starter from the car.
  35. Loosen the passenger side sixteen header nuts with a 15mm ratchet wrench.
  36. A 15mm socket and socket wrench will also be helpful in removal of the nuts.
  37. Once the header is free, reach straight up and disconnect the oxygen sensor.
  38. Remove the passenger side factory header from the car.
  39. Leave the factory gasket in place.
  40. Moving to the driver side; disconnect the oxygen sensor and remove the sixteen header nuts.
  41. Just like on the passenger side; a 15mm socket or ratchet wrench will be your go-to tools.
  42. The next step is totally optional; you can use some of the included aluminum silicone around the openings on the flange.
  43. We decided to apply a small amount of the silicone around the openings in the flange.
  44. Starting on the passenger side, ensure that the gasket is in place, and position the header over the studs.
  45. We wanted to utilize as many studs as we could, so we left them all in the cylinder head.
  46. Once the header is over the studs, loosely tighten the previously removed nuts.
  47. A stubby ratchet wrench will be the biggest life saver in re-tightening the nuts.
  48. Tighten all of the nuts down until they stop with adequate torque.
  49. DO NOT over tighten!
  50. Position the driver side header over the studs as well.
  51. Loosely tighten the nuts and then carefully tighten them down just like the passenger side.
  52. Prepare yourself to tighten a few of the nuts by small turns via the open end on your wrench.
  53. Connect the longer of the two included O2 extensions to the passenger side top connection.
  54. Reinstall your starter, and your motor mount brackets.
  55. Don’t forget the stud with the ground on the front of the bracket.
  56. Reinstall your steering shaft and re-tighten the bolt.
  57. Now you can lower your jack or pole jack and let the brackets rest back on the motor mounts.
  58. Back over to your factory cat pipes; remove the oxygen sensors with a 7/8” open end wrench.
  59. Transfer the top, or the oxygen sensors with the black connection and grey wire to the collector on the header.
  60. Be mindful that you keep them side specific when transferring.
  61. Tighten the sensor with the same 7/8” open end wrench.
  62. Slide one of the included clamps over the provided catless pipes.
  63. If you are installing the catted version, this will be a catalytic converter.
  64. Position it over the collector and lightly tap it flush with a dead blow; don’t tighten the clamp.
  65. Position the side specific lead pipe over the catless pipe and tap it flush as well.
  66. Do the same for the other side.
  67. Transfer the rear O2 sensors to the respected lead pipes and tighten them down.
  68. Loosely tighten the exhaust clamps on the catless pipes and lead pipes.
  69. Have your friend help you reposition your catback and exhaust sleeves.
  70. Tighten down the exhaust sleeves and the exhaust clamps on the lead pipes.
  71. Retighten the catback exhaust hangers.
  72. Be sure and make sure your tips sit even in your rear valance.
  73. Route your oxygen sensor wires away from the exhaust and zip tie them out of the way.
  74. Now, is a perfect time to give everything underneath the car a solid once-over.
  75. Back up top, retighten the motor nuts, reinstall the intake if you removed and reconnect the negative battery cable.
  76. Again, double and triple everything.
  77. Reflash your PCM with a custom tune calibrated for the long tube headers; and you’re all done!


After Dyno

Now that we have the Stainless Power long tube headers installed, we re-flashed the PCM with a custom tune which properly calibrated the car for the long tube headers. The car was then strapped back down to the dyno and an after pull was made in fourth gear as well.


How To: Install Mustang GT Stainless Power Long Tube Headers (15-16 5.0L) - How To: Install Mustang GT Stainless Power Long Tube Headers (15-16 5.0L)

The car managed to make 402HP and 377 lb/tq. So that’s good for peak gains of 17HP and 14 lb/tq. Looking at the third graph you can see the low end torque the car picked up after the headers as well as the top end power. So, the synopsis on this one, these Stainless Power headers are definitely worth it.

How To: Install Mustang GT Stainless Power Long Tube Headers (15-16 5.0L) - How To: Install Mustang GT Stainless Power Long Tube Headers (15-16 5.0L)

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About the Video

Mustang GT Stainless Power Long Tube Headers Install & Dyno (15-16 5.0L)

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Published on 2015-10-05
Stainless Power’s headers will feature 1-7/8” primaries, a 304 stainless steel construction and will be available with high flow catalytic converters or an off-road option. Both kits will offer a factory connect style option which means it will bolt up directly to a stock cat back or an aftermarket cat back that is designed to work with a factory style connection as well.

Both Stainless Power long tube headers WILL require a custom tune from your tuner to properly calibrate the PCM for such a drastic change.

-Baseline Dyno- 385HP/363TQ
- JLT Cold Air Intake
- Bassani Mid-muffler Catback
- SVE Custom Tune
- 3.31 Gears
- 4th Gear Pull

-After Dyno- 402HP/377TQ
- Stainless Power Long Tube Headers (Off-road)
- JLT Cold Air Intake
- Bassani Mid-muffler Catback
- SVE Custom Tune
- 3.31 Gears
- 4th Gear Pull

Mustang Fitment: 2015 (15), 2016 (16) 5.0L