How To Install Mustang SVE Coilovers (05-14)

Posted 6/22/2017 by Tyler Rodriquez

Follow along as Landan from LMR.com shows us how to install SVE Coil Overs on your 2005-2014 S197 Mustang.

FOLLOW: 05 09 mustang , 10 14 mustang , mustang , suspension

Adding a set of coil overs to your 2005-2014 Mustang is a great way to get adjustable suspension for both performance and looks. Installation of a Mustang coil over kit can be intimidating, but we walk you through how easy the install can be! We do suggest having above average mechanical ability, but a good selection of tools and a few helping hands should work just as well, as long as you follow our steps!

Click here to skip to the rear section

Tools Needed:

  • Floor Jack
  • Jack Stands
  • Basic Hand Tools

    Front Section

  1. Before continuing, you will need an adjustable pan hard bar to complete this install. To begin the install, support the car via a lift or jack stands. Go ahead and take off both front wheels.



  2. Remove the sway bar end link from the strut by using an 18MM deep socket on the nut and a 17MM open end wrench on the threaded stud. Do this for both sides.



  3. Loose and remove the two strut to spindle retaining bolts with an 18 mm socket. Let the spindle hang free or support it with a jack or jack stand. On the drivers side, remove the brake hose bracket from the strut by removing the 10mm bolt.



  4. Use a pushpin removal tool to remove the harness clip from the strut. Pop the hood and then remove the four 13MM strut mount retaining nuts. Loosen two of the nuts to the point where you can remove them by hand.



  5. Hold the strut and spring assembly with one hand and remove the two nuts with the other. Remove the assembly from the car.



  6. Remove the factory sway bar end link from the sway bar with the same socket wrench combination as before. Takes this time to clean the top of the strut tower. Now place the front coil over assemblies on a work bench. Thread the top and middle collars away from the spring.



  7. Run up the top collar until it touches the spring isolator. Next run up the middle collar until it touches the top collar, but do not tighten it down.



  8. While holding the middle collar and threaded strut body, turn the top collar up or counter clockwise until you have achieved a distance or 5MM between the top and middle collar. This distance is roughly the width of one of the spanner wrenches.



  9. Once the 5MM of spring preload is achieved, run up the middle collar and then tighten it down while keeping tension on the top collar. Thread the bottom collar away from the lower bracket.



  10. Measure the distance from the top of the upper strut mount to the center of the top hole on the lower strut bracket. A good starting point is a distance of 18 inches.



  11. Once this is achieved, tighten the bottom collar against the lower bracket. Before Landan installs the coil over assembly into the car, he's also going to add some additional positive camber since he is lowering the car. This is done by moving the strut toward the inside of the upper plate.



  12. To do this, loosen four allen bolts, slide the plate and then re-tighten. For additional adjustment, these allen bolts can be completely removed and reinstalled into one of the other holes on the lower plate.


  13. Remove the four pre-installed nuts and position the coil over assembly into the car. Hand tighten the four strut mount nuts.



  14. Reposition the spindle into the strut and reinstall the bolts. Make sure the lockout tabs on the nuts are positioned correctly and then torque the bolts to 148 lb/ft.



  15. Re-position the brake hose bracket, slide the previously removed 10MM bolt through both the bracket and strut, and then thread one of the provided 13MM nuts onto the bolt. Torque the nut to 15lb/ft.



  16. Reinstall the harness clip. Take one of the provided sway bar end links and loosen the two jam nuts.



  17. Thread the end link all the way until it bottoms out on the jam nut and flattens the split washer. Flip the end link around and do the same for the other side except you want this threaded stud pointing the opposite direction. Therefore, you'll want to tighten the jam nut against the end link.



  18. Once this is done, install the end link into the car.



  19. Use a 6MM allen key to hold the threaded stud while you tighten the nut with a 19MM deep Socket. Torque the nut to 85 lb/ft. Repeat these steps for the passenger side.



    Rear Section

  1. Moving to the rear of the car, remove both rear wheels. Support the rear end and then remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the frame rail on both sides.



  2. Pop the trunk and roll back the side trim pieces. Remove the upper shock nut with a 15MM deep socket. Underneath the car, remove the upper sway bar end link to body bolts with a 15MM socket.



  3. Swing the sway bar down and out of the way. Carefully pull down on each side of the rear and and remove the factory springs.



  4. Remove the factory pan hard bar from the car by removing the two 18MM bolts. Use a pry bar to help remove it from the car.



  5. Remove the lower shock hardware with a 15MM socket and remove both both shocks. Be sure and remove the lower bushing and washer from each shock.



  6. On the new shock, make sure the small flat washer is in place and then slide on the previously removed washer and bushing. Loosen the lock collar on the shock. Thread the lower portion up or down until the bottom of the threaded body is even with the top of the view hole. Once this is achieved, tighten down the collar against the lower bracket.



  7. Reinstall the shocks into the car and torque the factory bolts to 85 lb/ft. On the provided spring perch thread both collars all the way to the bottom and tighten them against each other.



  8. Remove the factory lower sping isolators from the rear end housing. Position the spring perches into place followed by the provided isoloators and spring. Make sure the flat side of the spring is facing down and is contacting the spring perch.



  9. Place the factory pan hard bar and the adjustable pan hard bar on a work bench. Loosen the jam nuts on the adjustable bar. Position the adjustable bar over the factory bar. Center the bolt holes and slide the factory bolts through the bars to ensure they are centered.



  10. Tighten the jam nuts on the adjustable bar. This is a J&M adjustable bar which features poly bushings. Landan applied a liberal amount of specially formulated PTFE grease, intended to be used with the poly bushings



  11. Reinstall the pan hard bar into the car starting on the axle mount and then swing the bar up into the body mount. To ease the installation inside of the body mount, loosen the pan hard bar support bolt.



  12. Slide the bolts back into the pan hard bar and re-position the lock nuts and torque the bolts to 129 lb/ft. Be sure and re-tighten the pan hard bar support hardware.



  13. Swing the sway bar back into position, slide the bolts through the sway bar and then torque the bolts to 85 lb/ft. Slowly jack up on the rear end.



  14. Make sure the springs seat properly and that the shocks pass through the openings in the trunk floor. Once the shock bushings have bottomed out on the underside of the car, slide the upper shock bushing over the shaft followed by the flange nut.



  15. Torque the nuts to 30 lb/ft. Retighten the brake hose bracket bolts and torque to 11 lb/ft. Our rear bump stops were in desperate need of some attention so we replaced those with the Ford Performance kit. This kit does include front and rear, but in our case, only the rear are needed.



  16. Remove each bump stop by removing the two torx bolts. Clean the area, position the new bump stop into place and then torque the included hardware to 20 to 24 lb/ft.



  17. Check your work and then reinstall all 4 wheels. Get your car on the ground, torque the upper strut mount nuts to 26 lb/ft and then check ride height.



    And you're finished! Make sure to check all measurements and to get your car properly aligned once you are finished!



About the Video

How to Install Mustang Coil Overs- SVE (2005-14)

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Published on 2017-04-27
Mustang SVE Coilover Kit.
Dial in your stance while improving handling with SVE's 2005-2014 Mustang coilover kit! Whether you're at the track, or the car show, this SVE coilover kit provides you the versatility to dominate both! An adjustable ride height allows you to lock in the perfect center of gravity to optimize performance at the track, as well as eliminate your fender to wheel gap at the car show! Camber adjustment plates are included to help align your suspension after installation. All of this is achieved while maintaining a comfortable ride quality!

High Quality Components.
This SVE coilover kit is designed and manufactured with high quality components that are built to last! CNC machined, locking spring perches allow you to adjust your ride height anywhere from 1-3 inches! Precision cut threads, and the included spanner wrenches, allow you to smoothly dial in your suspension exactly where you want it. Premium quality, non-adjustable shocks and struts are included, and valved specifically for use with this kit, to provide the best ride quality possible. Adjustable front sway bar end links are included to ensure there's no binding after lowering your front suspension. Finally, a high quality, powder coat finish is used to provide surface corrosion protection from harsh exterior elements!

Fitment Notes:
-This kit is designed to be an entry level kit for daily drivers and open track/road race applications. Due to the spring rates, drag race use is not recommended.
-Will NOT work with any other shock/strut setups.
-Must re-use factory rear shock hardware/bushings.

Application: Fits 2005-2014 Mustang

SVE Coilover Warranty.
SVE guarantees this coilover kit to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of three years. This warranty does not cover any product that has been subject to misuse, neglect, alteration, accident, or improper installation. Upon inspection, if there is evidence of any of the previous acts, the product will not be covered under warranty.

Features:
- 1"-3" Drop Range
- 375lb/in Front Spring Rate
- 275lb/in Rear Spring Rate
- CNC Machined Locking Perches

Benefits:
- Improves Handling
- Adjustable Ride Height
- Comfortable Ride Quality
- Includes Camber Adjustment Plates

Item # SVE-47375BK
Transcript
WHAT’S UP EVERYONE? LANDAN WITH LATE MODEL RESTORATION. WELCOME TO MY OVERVIEW AND INSTALL ON SVE’S COIL OVER KIT DESIGNED FOR THE 2005 TO 2014 S197 MUSTANGS.

THIS SVE COIL OVER KIT IS WITHOUT QUESTION ONE OF THE EASIEST WAYS TO DIAL IN THE SUSPENSION ON YOUR S197 MUSTANG. COIL OVER SUSPENSION KITS ARE DESIGNED TO OFFER VARIABLE ADJUSTMENTS AT EACH WHEEL TO ACHIEVE THE BEST PERFORMANCE OUT OF YOUR CAR. SVE’S COIL OVER KIT IS GOING TO CATER TO THE ENTHUSIAST LOOKING TO LOWER THEIR MUSTANG AND IMPROVE HANDLING IN ONE SIMPLE, BOLT ON KIT.

THIS KIT IS GOING TO FEATURE A PRE-CONSTRUCTED FRONT STRUT ASSEMBLY WITH COIL OVER SPRINGS, REAR SHOCKS WITH SPRINGS AND AN ADJUSTMENT PERCH WHICH ARE ALL CNC MACHINED FOR SMOOTH ADJUSTMENTS. THE FRONT STRUTS ALSO INCORPORATE UPPER STRUT MOUNTS THAT ALLOWS PRECISE OF ADJUSTMENTS OF YOUR CAR’S CAMBER. THE ADJUSTABILITY OF THIS SVE COIL OVER KIT WILL ALLOW FOR A 1 TO 3 INCH DROP RANGE.

THE FRONT SPRING RATE COMES IN AT 375 POUNDS PER INCH WHILE THE REAR MEASURES OUT AT 275 POUNDS PER INCH. THOSE SPRING RATES ARE VERY VERSATILE AND WILL WORK GREAT FOR STREET USE AND OPEN TRACK OR ROAD RACE EVENTS.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO INSTALL THESE INTO YOUR CAR IS INCLUDED IN THE BOX ALONG WITH TWO SPANNER WRENCHES AND TWO SHORTER SWAY BAR END LINKS.

BEFORE CONTINUING, YOU WILL NEED AN ADJUSTABLE PAN HARD BAR TO COMPLETE THIS INSTALL.
TO BEGIN THE INSTALL, SUPPORT THE CAR VIA A LIFT OR JACK STANDS.
I’M GOING TO START WITH THE FRONT SUSPENSION FIRST.
GO AHEAD AND REMOVE BOTH FRONT WHEELS.
REMOVE THE SWAY BAR END LINK FROM THE STRUT BY USING AN 18MM DEEP SOCKET ON THE NUT AND A 17MM OPEN END WRENCH ON THE THREADED STUD.
DO THIS FOR BOTH SIDE.
ON THE DRIVER SIDE, REMOVE THE BRAKE HOSE BRACKET FROM THE STRUT BY REMOVING THE 10MM BOLT.
USE A PUSH PIN REMOVAL TOOL TO REMOVE THE HARNESS CLIP FROM THE STRUT.
LOOSEN AND REMOVE THE TWO STRUT TO SPINDLE RETAINING BOLTS WITH AN 18MM SOCKET.
LET THE SPINDLE HANG FREE OR SUPPORT IT WITH A JACK OR JACK STAND.
POP THE HOOD AND THEN REMOVE THE FOUR 13MM STRUT MOUNT RETAINING NUTS.
LOOSEN TWO OF THE NUTS TO THE POINT WHERE YOU CAN REMOVE THEM BY HAND.
HOLD THE STRUT AND SPRING ASSEMBLY WITH ONE HAND AND REMOVE THE TWO NUTS WITH THE OTHER.
REMOVE THE ASSEMBLY FROM THE CAR.
THEN, REMOVE THE FACTORY SWAY BAR END LINK FROM THE SWAY BAR WITH THE SAME SOCKET AND WRENCH COMBINATION AS BEFORE.
TAKE THIS TIME TO CLEAN THE TOP OF THE STRUT TOWER.
NOW, PLACE THE FRONT COIL OVER ASSEMBLIES ON A WORK BENCH.
THREAD THE TOP AND MIDDLE COLLARS AWAY FROM THE SPRING.
RUN UP THE TOP COLLAR UNTIL IT TOUCHES THE SPRING ISOLATOR.
NEXT, RUN UP THE MIDDLE COLLAR UNTIL IT TOUCHES THE TOP COLLAR, BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN.
WHILE HOLDING THE MIDDLE COLLAR AND THREADED STRUT BODY, TURN THE TOP COLLAR UP OR COUNTER-CLOCKWISE UNTIL YOU HAVE ACHIEVED A DISTANCE OF 5MM BETWEEN THE TOP AND MIDDLE COLLAR.
THIS DISTANCE IS ROUGHLY THE WIDTH OF ONE OF THE SPANNER WRENCHES.
ONCE THE 5MM OF SPRING PRELOAD IS ACHIEVED, RUN UP THE MIDDLE COLLAR AND THEN TIGHTEN IT DOWN WHILE KEEPING TENSION ON THE TOP COLLAR WITH THE OTHER SPANNER WRENCH.
THREAD THE BOTTOM COLLAR AWAY FROM THE LOWER BRACKET.
MEASURE THE DISTANCE FROM THE TOP OF THE UPPER STRUT MOUNT TO THE CENTER OF THE TOP HOLE ON THE LOWER STRUT BRACKET.
A GOOD STARTING POINT IS A DISTANCE OF 18 INCHES.
ONCE THIS IS ACHIEVED, TIGHTEN THE BOTTOM COLLAR AGAINST THE LOWER BRACKET.
BEFORE I INSTALL THE COIL OVER ASSEMBLY INTO THE CAR, I’M ALSO GOING TO ADD SOME ADDITIONAL POSITIVE CAMBER SINCE I AM LOWERING THE CAR.
THIS IS DONE BY MOVING THE STRUT TOWARD THE INSIDE OF THE UPPER PLATE.
TO DO THIS, LOOSEN THE FOUR ALLEN BOLTS, SLIDE THE PLATE AND THEN RETIGHTEN.
FOR ADDITIONAL ADJUSTMENT, THESE ALLEN BOLTS CAN BE COMPLETED REMOVED AND REINSTALLED INTO ONE OF THE OTHER HOLES ON THE LOWER PLATE.
REMOVE THE FOUR PREINSTALLED NUTS AND POSITION THE COIL OVER ASSEMBLY INTO THE CAR.
HAND TIGHTEN THE FOUR STRUT MOUNT NUTS.
REPOSITION THE SPINDLE INTO THE STRUT AND REINSTALL THE BOLTS.
MAKE SURE THE LOCKOUT TABS ON THE NUTS ARE POSITIONED CORRECTLY AND THEN TORQUE THE BOLTS TO 148 LB/FT.
REINSTALL THE HARNESS CLIP.
REPOSITION THE BRAKE HOSE BRACKET, SLIDE THE PREVIOUSLY REMOVED 10MM BOLT THROUGH BOTH THE BRACKET AND STRUT, AND THEN THREAD ONE OF THE PROVIDED 13MM NUTS ONTO THE BOLT.
TORQUE THE NUT TO 15 LB/FT.
TAKE ONE OF THE PROVIDED SWAY BAR END LINKS AND LOOSEN THE TWO JAM NUTS.
THIS IS KIND OF AWKWARD, SO I FOUND IT EASIEST TO UTILIZE A VISE.
THREAD THE END LINK ALL THE WAY IN UNTIL IT BOTTOMS OUT ON THE JAM NUT AND FLATTENS THE SPLIT WASHER.
FLIP THE END LINK AROUND AND DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER SIDE EXCEPT YOU WANT THIS THREADED STUD POINTING THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION.
THEREFORE, YOU’LL WANT TO TIGHTEN THE JAM NUT AGAINST THE END LINK.
ONCE THIS IS DONE, INSTALL THE END LINK INTO THE CAR.
USE A 6MM ALLEN KEY TO HOLD THE THREADED STUD WHILE YOU TIGHTEN THE NUT WITH A 19MM DEEP SOCKET.
TORQUE THE NUT TO 85 LB/FT.
REPEAT THESE STEPS FOR THE PASSENGER SIDE.
MOVING TO THE REAR OF THE CAR, REMOVE BOTH REAR WHEELS
SUPPORT THE REAR END AND THEN REMOVE THE BRAKE HOSE BRACKET BOLT FROM THE FRAME RAIL ON BOTH SIDE.
POP THE TRUNK AND ROLL BACK THE SIDE TRIM PIECES.
REMOVE THE UPPER SHOCK NUT WITH A 15MM DEEP SOCKET.
UNDERNEATH THE CAR, REMOVE THE UPPER SWAY BAR END LINK TO BODY BOLTS WITH A 15MM SOCKET.
SWING THE SWAY BAR DOWN AND OUT OF THE WAY.
CAREFULLY PULL DOWN ON EACH SIDE OF THE REAR END AND REMOVE THE FACTORY SPRINGS.
REMOVE THE LOWER SHOCK HARDWARE WITH A 15MM SOCKET AND REMOVE BOTH SHOCKS.
BE SURE AND REMOVE THE LOWER BUSHING AND WASHER FROM EACH SHOCK.
ONE THE NEW SHOCK, MAKE SURE THE SMALL FLAT WASHER IS IN PLACE AND THEN SLIDE ON THE PREVIOUSLY REMOVED FACTORY WASHER AND BUSHING.
IF YOURS ARE WORN, PICK UP SOME NEW ONES FROM LMR.COM.
LOOSEN THE LOCK COLLAR ON THE SHOCK.
THREAD THE LOWER PORTION UP OR DOWN UNTIL THE BOTTOM OF THE THREADED BODY IS EVEN WITH THE TOP OF THE VIEW HOLE.
ONCE THIS IS ACHIEVED, TIGHTEN THE COLLAR AGAINST THE LOWER BRACKET.
REINSTALL THE SHOCKS INTO THE CAR AND TORQUE THE FACTORY BOLTS TO 85 LB/FT.
ON THE PROVIDED SPRING PERCH, THREAD BOTH COLLARS ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM AND TIGHTEN THEM AGAINST EACH OTHER.
REMOVE THE FACTORY PAN HARD BAR FROM THE CAR BY REMOVING THE TWO 18MM BOLTS.
USE A PRY BAR TO HELP REMOVE IT FROM THE CAR.
PLACE IT AND AN ADJUSTABLE PAN HARD BAR ON A WORK BENCH.
LOOSEN THE JAM NUTS ON THE ADJUSTABLE BAR.
POSITION THE ADJUSTABLE BAR OVER THE FACTORY BAR.
CENTER THE BOLT HOLES AND SLIDE THE FACTORY BOLTS THROUGH THE BARS TO ENSURE THEY ARE CENTERED.
TIGHTEN THE JAM NUTS ON THE ADJUSTABLE BAR.
THIS IS A J&M BAR WHICH FEATURES POLY BUSHINGS.
I APPLIED A LIBERAL AMOUNT OF SPECIALLY FORMULATED PTFE GREASE INTENDED TO BE USED WITH POLY BUSHINGS.
REINSTALL THE PAN HARD BAR INTO THE CAR STARTING ON THE AXLE MOUNT AND THEN SWING THE BAR UP INTO THE BODY MOUNT.
TO EASE THE INSTALLATION INSIDE OF THE BODY MOUNT, LOOSEN THE PAN HARD BAR SUPPORT BOLT.
SLIDE THE BOLTS BACK INTO THE PAN HARD BAR, REPOSITION THE LOCK NUTS AND TORQUE TO 129 LB/FT.
BE SURE AND RETIGHTEN THE PAN HARD BAR SUPPORT HARDWARE.
SWING THE SWAY BAR BACK INTO POSITION, SLIDE THE BOLTS THROUGH THE SWAY BAR, AND THEN TORQUE THE BOLTS TO 85 LB/FT.
REMOVE THE FACTORY LOWER SPRING ISOLATORS FROM THE REAR END HOUSING.
POSITION THE SPRING PERCHES INTO PLACE FOLLOWED BY THE PROVIDED ISOLATORS AND SPRINGS.
MAKE SURE THE FLAT SIDE OF THE SPRING IS FACING DOWN AND IS CONTACTING THE SPRING PERCH.
SLOWLY JACK UP ON THE REAR END.
MAKE SURE THE SPRINGS SEAT PROPERLY AND THAT THE SHOCKS PASS THROUGH THE OPENINGS IN THE TRUNK FLOOR.
ONCE THE SHOCK BUSHINGS HAVE BOTTOMED OUT ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAR, SLIDE THE UPPER SHOCK BUSHING OVER THE SHAFT FOLLOWED BY THE FLANGE NUT.
TORQUE THE NUTS TO 30 LB/FT.
RETIGHTEN THE BRAKE HOSE BRACKET BOLTS AND TORQUE TO 11 LB/FT.
OUR REAR BUMP STOPS WERE IN DESPERATE NEED OF SOME ATTENTION SO WE REPLACED THOSE WITH THE FORD PERFORMANCE KIT.
THIS KIT DOES INCLUDE FRONT AND REAR, BUT ONLY THE REARS ARE NEEDED.
REMOVE EACH BUMP STOP BY REMOVING THE TWO TORX BOLTS.
CLEAN THE AREA, POSITION THE NEW BUMP STOP INTO PLACE AND THEN TORQUE THE INCLUDED HARDWARE TO 20 TO 24 LB/FT.
CHECK YOUR WORK AND THEN REINSTALL ALL 4 WHEELS.
GET THE CAR ON THE GROUND, TORQUE THE UPPER STRUT MOUNT NUTS TO 26 LB/FT, AND THEN CHECK THE RIDE HEIGHT.
THIS IS EXACTLY THE DROP AMOUNT WE WERE GOING FOR, SO I’M LEAVING THIS ALONE.
TO ADJUST THESE COIL OVERS, SUPPORT THE CAR AND REMOVE THE WHEELS.
STARTING WITH THE FRONT, LOOSEN THE BOTTOM COLLAR AND THREAD IT AWAY FROM THE LOWER BRACKET.
TO LOWER THE VEHICLE, TURN THE TOP COLLAR COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
BE SURE AND COUNT YOUR TURNS SO YOU CAN DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER SIDE.
TO RAISE THE VEHICLE, TURN THE MIDDLE COLLAR CLOCKWISE.
ONCE DESIRED HEIGHT IS ACHIEVED, RETIGHTEN THE BOTTOM COLLAR AGAINST THE LOWER BRACKET.
TO ADJUST THE REAR, LOOSEN THE LOCK COLLAR AND THREAD IT AWAY FROM THE LOWER BRACKET.
TURN THE THREADED BODY CLOCKWISE TO LOWER THE VEHICLE AND COUNTER-CLOCKWISE TO RAISE THE VEHICLE.
TO ADJUST THE PRE LOAD OF THE REAR SPRING, THREAD THE TOP COLLAR COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
ONCE THE DESIRED PRE-LOAD IS ACHIEVED RUN UP THE BOTTOM COLLAR AND THEN TIGHTEN THE TWO TOGETHER.
REINSTALL THE WHEELS AND THEN GET THE CAR ON THE GROUND.
A DRIVE ON LIFT WILL ALSO WORK TO PROPERLY ADJUST THE PAN HARD BAR.
BEFORE CONTINUING, USE A LEVEL OR PLUMB BOB AND A TAPE MEASURE TO MEASURE THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE WHEEL AND LEVEL OR PLUMB BOB.
IF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE WITHIN AN EIGHTH OF AN INCH OF EACH OTHER, YOU’RE GOOD TO GO.
IF NOT, JACK UP THE CAR AND SUPPORT THE CAR WITH JACK STANDS.
BREAK THE JAM NUTS LOOSE AND ROTATE THE ADJUSTMENT ROD CLOCKWISE OR COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
RETIGHTEN THE JAM NUTS AND RE-MEASURE.
REPEAT THOSE STEPS UNTIL BOTH MEASUREMENTS ARE EQUAL OR WITHIN AN EIGHTH OF AN INCH OF EACH OTHER.
FINALLY, GET THE CAR DOWN TO YOUR LOCAL ALIGNMENT SHOP TO GET THE CAR PROPERLY ALIGNED.

ONE OTHER THING I WOULD RECOMMEND FOR THE 2005 TO 2014, IS A BUMP STEER KIT. A BUMP STEER KIT WILL FURTHER HELP WITH ALIGNMENT AND PROPERLY CORRECT SUSPENSION GEOMETRY ON LOWERED MUSTANGS.

QUICKLY RECAPPING HERE GUYS, THESE SVE COIL OVER KITS ARE THE PERFECT ADDITION TO ALL S197 MUSTANG ENTHUSIASTS LOOKING FOR BETTER RIDE QUALITY AND HANDLING ALL WITHOUT SPENDING AN ARM AND A LEG.

I WOULD RECOMMEND ABOVE AVERAGE MECHANICAL ABILITY IF YOU PLAN ON INSTALLING THESE YOURSELF. A GOOD SELECTION OF TOOLS AND A FEW HELPING HANDS FROM SOME FRIENDS WOULDN'T HURT EITHER.

TO SEE MORE GREAT PRODUCTS FROM INDUSTRY LEADER SVE, SUBSCRIBE TO OUR YOUTUBE CHANNEL IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY DONE SO. BE SURE AND PICK UP THIS SVE COIL OVER KIT FOR YOUR 2005 TO 2014 MUSTANG FROM THE REAL MUSTANG ENTHUSIASTS, LMR.COM!