Adding a set of coil overs to your 1994-2004 SN95 Mustang is a great way to get adjustable suspension for both performance and looks. Installation of a Mustang coil over kit can be intimidating, but we walk you through how easy the install can be! We do suggest having above average mechanical ability, but a good selection of tools and a few helping hands should work just as well, as long as you follow our steps! For this install, we will be using the step from our 1979-1993 Mustang SVE Coil Over Installation as they are relatively the same minus a few minor details.
- Floor Jack
- Jack Stands
- Basic Hand Tools
Start in the rear and pop the trunk. You'll want to remove the inner trunk panels to gain access to the shock hardware.
Support the car via a lift or jacks stands. Remove both wheels and the upper shock retaining hardware.
Then remove the swaybar from the car by removing the four retaining bolts. Gradually lower the rear end and remove the shock hardware. Then remove and discard the old shocks.
Carefully pull down on the rear end and remove the springs one at a time. Use caution: These springs can still be under tension!
Grab one of the rear shocks and make sure one of the pre-installed spacers is on the shaft. Use the provided washer and bushing and position them onto the shock. Once that is ready to roll, position the shock into place.
Reinstall the lower hardware and torque to 57-75 foot pounds. Position the lower tapered spring mount onto the control arms. Make sure the thicker side is toward the rear of the car.
Before installing the upper spring mount, remove the old upper isolator if it stays in place when you remove the springs. Separate the cross plate and upper spring mount using a 6 inch 3/8 extension and a 13mm shallow socket.
Position the crossplate through the frame rail and into the perch. Put the bolt through the mount and 13mm socket on the head. Begin threading the bolt. Once the threads catch, ensure the upper mount is flush all the way around the spring perch.
Pull down on the mount and keep tension on the crossplate so you can tighten it down. Carefully tighten down the bolt. Thread the adjusting collar and locking collar all the way to the top of the mount. Repeat these steps
Before installing the rear spring and upper isolator, jack up on the rear end until the top of the shock starts to make its way through the trunk floor.
Now position the rear springs into place and make sure to install the thin upper isolator.
These springs can go either way and you don’t have to worry about centering the pigtail on the lower control arm.
Continue jacking up on the rear end until it bottoms out the lower rubber bushing.
Slide the other rubber bushing over the shock shaft followed by the upper washer.
Hand tighten the provided upper shock nut and then torque to 30 ft/lbs.
Do not use the nut that was provided with the new rear shock hardware.
Do the same for the other side.
Reinstall the sway bar.
Take this time to reinstall any trunk component that was removed for installation.
That completes the rear section.
Step 1:Moving to the front of the vehicle, remove both the driver and passenger side sway bar end link retaining nuts.
Support the driver side control arm.
Step 2:Remove the caliper and caliper bracket, and then position the caliper out of the way.
If you have a Mustang equipped with ABS, remove the rubber wire grommet from the frame rail bracket.
This will for additional slack whenever you remove the spring.
Step 3:Pop the hood and remove the strut shaft nut and washer.
Carefully lower the jack until the strut clears the strut tower.
Keep the jack in place and then remove the spindle to strut retaining hardware.
Step 4:Carefully lower the jack until the strut clear the strut tower. Remove the strut from the car. Use extreme caution and remove the spring from the car.
Step 5:Drill out the locating rivet from the top plate.
Remove the three retaining nuts securing the top plate to the upper strut mount.
While you loosen the nuts, keep one hand on the strut mount and then remove it from the car.
Step 6:Remove the top plate from the car and then take this time to wipe down the area.
Take the pre-constructed SVE coil over strut and remove the upper nut followed by the upper strut bushings and mount. Leave the large washer in place.
Step 7:Take the provided upper strut mount that is intended for the caster camber plates.
The will be the mount that has the flat surface and not a provision for the strut mount bushing.
Slide it over the strut shaft followed by the included spacer.
Step 8:Take the provided caster camber plate assembly marked with an "L" for driver side and separate the upper plate from the lower plate.
Step 9:Position the lower plate up into the strut tower and install one small washer onto each stud.
Then slide the provided spacers over each stud followed by the upper plate.
Step 10:Make sure each stud has another small washer and then loosely tighten the locking nuts.
Now, tighten the upper plate retaining nuts and caster plate retaining nuts just enough to where you can still move each plate.
Step 11:Position the strut shaft into the spherical bearing.
Push up and loosely thread the strut retaining nut.
Use the provided shims if they’re needed on either side of the strut in between the spindle.
Step 12:The large, diagonal cut on the shim will be installed so that it is on the bottom and facing the outside of the car.
Reinstall the previously removed retaining hardware in the same orientation.
Fully tighten the strut to spindle retaining nuts and then torque to 148 ft/lbs.
Step 13:Center the two caster nuts and then torque to 32 ft/lbs.
Center three camber nuts and torque to 65 ft/lbs
Torque the strut shaft retaining nut to 74 ft/lbs.
Step 14:Remove the jack from the control arm.
Reinstall the brake rotor, caliper bracket and caliper.
Also reinstall any ABS related component if your Mustang came equipped with it.
Step 15:Thread the locking collar and adjustment collar to the bottom of the strut.
Repeat these steps for the other side.
Step 16:Lastly, reinstall the sway bar over the end links and torque the nuts to 14 ft/lbs.
To make the appropriate adjustments to your coil overs, use the provided spanner wrenches to turn the adjustment collars.
On the front, you’ll want to thread the collar up from the bottom to raise the car.
On the back, you’ll want to thread the collar down from the top to raise the car.
We started with the front collars bottomed out and the rear collars all the way at the top. Depending on how low you want to go with your setup, the amount of rotations will vary. For our liking, we did 50 full turns from the bottom on the front and 30 full turns from on the top on rear.
Whenever you do fine tune your ride height, you’ll want thread the locking collar against the adjustment collar and tighten the two collars with the provided spanner wrenches.
Once you finish, double check your work and take the car around the block. If everything checks out okay, get your car down to the alignment and quick as possible to get the car properly aligned.
One other thing I would recommend for the 1994 to 2004 Mustangs, is an SVE bump steer kit. A bump steer kit will further help with alignment and properly correct suspension geometry on lowered Mustangs.
Quickly recapping here guys, these SVE coil over kits are the perfect addition to any SN95 Mustang enthusiast looking for better ride quality and handling all without spending an arm and a leg.
I would recommend above average mechanical ability if you plan on installing these yourself. A good selection of tools and a few helping hands from some friends wouldn't hurt either.