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1979-2004 Mustang SVE Subframe Connectors Review & Install
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Published on 2016-03-09
LMR.COM is proud to offer an inexpensive set of subframe connectors for your 1979-2004 Mustang that are guaranteed to provide increased chassis stiffness and better handling!
Standard length, cross design with seat reinforcements help reinforce the seat pan and subframe. These subframe connectors feature .080 wall thickness which offers great support within your budget!
Comes with installation instructions, and 2 M10X1.5 nuts with lock washers to mount seat braces.
The full length subframe connectors feature beefy 1 by 2 inch connectors which are perfect for serious cars with high horsepower, sticky tires or competition suspension.
They are reinforced at each bend and include seat brackets as well as torque box reinforcing plates for a stronger attachment to the rear subframe.
Full-length subframe connectors are available in a bare steel finish.
For correct installation, Sub Frame Connectors must be welded.
Mustang Fitment: 1979 (79), 1980 (80), 1981 (81), 1982 (82), 1983 (83), 1984 (84), 1985 (85), 1986 (86), 1987 (87), 1988 (88), 1989 (89), 1990 (90), 1991 (91), 1992 (92), 1993 (93), 1994 (94), 1995 (95), 1996 (96), 1997 (97), 1998 (98), 1999 (99), 2000 (00), 2001 (01), 2002 (02), 2003 (03), 2004 (04)
Hey! What’s happening guys? Landan here with LMR.com and today this video is going to cover my quick rundown on SVE’s subframe connector option fitting your 1979 to 2004 Mustang.
If you are currently shopping around for a quality, budget friendly sub frame connector, then you should definitely consider checking out these three options from SVE. Before I go into any more detail on these connectors, the most common question asked surrounding suspension components is, “Do I need sub frame connectors?” Well, me personally, I’ve always had sub frame connectors on any of my Mustangs.
They are designed to connect the front and rear subframes together. This not only strengthens the flexible floorpan between the two subframes, but greatly increases the rigidity of the Mustang’s unibody chassis.
Up first, is the SVE mid-length subframe connector. These are great for the average enthusiast that likes spirited driving every once in a while. They feature a boxed steel construction, seat supports and are available in a red or black powder coated finish for durability. The correct hardware is also included to secure the subframes seat supports to the floor pan. Also, keep in mind that these SVE mid-length subframe connectors must be welded to complete the installation.
The next option is for the serious enthusiast looking for the best in chassis rigidity. These full length subframe connectors span the entire length of the frame rail and feature beefy one by two inch steel rectangular tubing for superior durability and quality. The full length sub frame connectors are bare metal so once installed and all welding is completed, be sure to cover the entire component with a rust prohibitive paint. Like the mid-lengths, the full length subframes will come with the needed hardware to bolt the seat supports to the floor pan.
Since the full length subframes cover more ground then the mid lengths there is some fitment notes I need to make clear for you guys. 1983 to ’93 convertibles will require brace modification as well as 1996 to ’98 Cobras will require modifications to the transmission cross member mounting points. All that is needed is a simple notch to clear the tubing of the subframe connector. With that being said, follow along guys as I walk you through the brief installation steps on this ’99 Electric Green GT.
To begin installation, support the car via a drive on lift with the weight of the car supported by the wheels.
A two post lift or jack stands is not recommended for this install. If your car is an automatic, remove the shifter linkage cable.Before continuing, you may have to remove your mid-pipe for easier access and working space.
Starting on the passenger side, remove the seat track hardware and position one of the seat track supports.
These are side specific, and the openings for the sub frame should be in-line with the car’s frame rail. Install the other seat track support onto the driver side. The longer part of the track support will be on the inside of the frame rail.
The sub frame connectors are side specific as well.Each connector has two outer tabs; these will be closest to the front of the car and on the outside of the frame rail. Whereas the single tab will be on the inside of the frame rail. Hold the sub frame connector in place using pole jacks. It may help if you space the jack with a two by four.
Moving to the rear sub frame, align the lower torque box supports with the frame rail. These are side specific as well. The longer tab will sit on the inside of the frame rail whereas the smaller tab will be flush with the backside of the torque box. Use a permanent marker to mark to the area of the rear torque box supports. Before continuing, make sure the end sub frame connector is flush with the rear of the torque box.
Mark all of the tabs and the front of the sub frame connector. Also, place a mark about two inches inward from the rear of the frame rail, and make sure it is roughly two inches in length. Grab your welder and mask, and fully weld the seat track supports to the sub frame connector. Allow the welds to cool down, and then remove the welded assembly from the car.
Wipe the entire sub frame connector down with brake clean or denatured alcohol. Take this time to thoroughly paint the seat track supports and the tops of the sub frame connector that will mate with the bottom of the frame rail. Grind down your marked areas. Reposition the torque box supports and tack them into place. Now you can weld the entire support to the bottom of the car. Position the sub frame connector and support it via pole jacks.
Make sure the rear of the connector is still flush with the back of the torque box supports. Completely weld the sub frame connector to the surfaces that were previously prepped with the grinder. Remove the pole jacks, deburr any rough welds and then paint the remainder of the sub frame connector. Repeat these steps for the other side and you’re all finished.
As far as installation is concerned fellas, bet on about 45 minutes to an hour per side, and that is of course allowing the paint to dry. If you or a friend don’t have access to a welder, be sure and run your car down to the local exhaust or fabrication shop.
If you guys want to see more in-depth product promos for your Fox Body or SN95 based Mustang, then subscribe to our YouTube channel. While you’re at it, head back over to the site if you’re not already there, and pick up a set of SVE subframes for your 1979 to 2004 Mustang at LMR.com.