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1979-1993 Mustang 5.0 Resto Rear Drum Brake Rebuild Kit - Install & Review
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Published on 2018-04-11
Mustang 5.0 Resto Drum Brake Rebuild Kit.
Brakes are definitely one area that you want to make sure is working properly at all times. LMR has taken the guesswork out of rebuilding your rear drum brakes with this 5.0 Resto drum brake rebuild kit fitting all 1980-1993 Mustangs with rear drum brakes. This kit will also work on 1979 models if the newer hard lines are used. This 5.0 Resto drum brake rebuild kit comes with all new tension springs, mounting hardware, adjusters & hardware, wheel cylinders, and a new set of shoes to get your brakes stopping like they should!
- Fits 1980-1993 Mustangs W/ Drum Brakes
- Also Fits 1979 Mustangs W/ Hard Lines
Item # LRS-H7246K
What’s up, everybody? Landan with LMR.com! Welcome to my overview and install on this rear drum brake rebuild kit designed for the 1980 to 1993 Fox Body Mustangs.
This particular kit from 5.0 Resto is going to include all of the components to properly rebuild your rear brakes with the exception of the drums.
In the kit will be brake shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, adjusters, cable guide, adjusting cable and adjuster lever.
All of these components are premium replacements and designed to offer a long service life.
This kit will work with 1980 to 1993 Foxes with factory equipped rear drum brakes.
Before replacing drum brakes, a specialized service kit may be in your best interest.
These kits include special brake spoons and spring tools to make removing and installing drum components a lot easier.
Also note that you will need to have your brake drums resurfaced or purchase new ones when installing this kit.
To begin the installation, support the car and remove the rear wheels.
Remove the drum from the backing plate.
If the drum is stuck, tap the outside with a hammer it knock it loose from the backing plate.
Position a drain pan or a piece of cardboard underneath the drum.
This will help collect any debris or fluid.
Spray the rear drum components with quality brake clean to clean up any loose material.
At the top of the assembly, remove the primary shoe return spring from the anchor pin.
Then remove it from the primary brake shoe.
Remove the secondary shoe return spring from the anchor pin.
This spring also retains the cable guide to the secondary shoe.
Remove the spring and cable guide.
Make note of the anchor pin guide plate and remove it from the anchor pin.
On the backside of the backing plate, hold the head of the hold down pin with your finger.
Then rotate the shoe hold down spring until the small rectangular opening passes over the hold down pin.
Remove the spring and pin from the primary shoe.
Repeat these steps for the spring and pin on the secondary shoe.
Remove the parking brake link from in between the shoes.
Remove the link spring and discard of the old spring.
Separate the primary shoe and adjuster spring from the adjuster lever.
Set the primary shoe aside.
Remove the adjuster lever from the secondary shoe.
Then remove the parking brake cable lever from the secondary shoe and set the shoe aside.
Pop out the rubber grommet from the backing plate.
Thoroughly clean the backing plate and shoe contact surfaces with brake clean and a wire brush.
Loosen the brake line fitting with a seven-sixteenths flare nut wrench.
Remove the two wheel cylinder to backing plate retaining bolts with a seven-sixteenths socket.
Remove the wheel cylinder and then cap the brake line.
Apply anti-seize to the brake shoe contact points on the backing plate.
Place towel underneath the brake line and then remove the rubber plug from the new wheel cylinder.
Uncap the brake line and finger tighten the fitting into the wheel cylinder.
Reinstall and retighten the two retaining bolts.
Fully tighten the brake line fitting.
Clean and inspect the parking brake link and anchor plate.
Slide two new hold down pins into their respective location on the backing plate.
Apply anti-seize the notch in the parking brake lever.
The frontward primary pad will have less pad material whereas the rearward secondary pad will have more pad material
Make sure you orientate these the correct way.
Position the hook on the parking brake lever into the opening on the secondary pad.
Assemble two of the provided hold down springs and retainers.
Position the shoe over the hold down pin.
Install the hold down spring and retainer over the pin.
Hold the head of the pin with your finger.
Turn the retainer so that the small rectangular opening passes over the hold down pin.
Rotate an additional quarter turn so that the opening in the retainer sits perpendicular across the opening.
Align the shoe contact point with the wheel cylinder.
Do the same for the primary shoe.
Install the provided parking brake link spring over the correct end.
Position the parking brake link in between the two shoes with the spring facing towards the primary shoe.
Place the cable guide over the correct hole in the secondary shoe.
Install the white spring through the guide and shoe.
Reinstall the anchor pin plate over the anchor pin in the correct orientation.
Install the eyelet of the cable over the anchor pin.
Pass the cable around the guide.
Install the long arm of the spring over the anchor pin.
Squeeze the spring hook and arm together.
Install the green spring through the hole in the primary shoe.
Install the long arm of this spring over the anchor pin.
Squeeze the hook and arm together.
Apply anti-seize to the shaft on the correct adjusting screw.
The driver side adjuster will be marked “L” and the passenger side will be marked “R”.
Position the provided washer and then slide on the pivot nut.
Locate the correct adjuster lever for the side that you are working on.
The driver side will be marked “L” and the passenger side will be marked “R”.
Install the hook on the cable into the opening in the adjuster lever.
Then install the hook on the adjuster lever into the hole in the secondary shoe.
Install the red spring into the primary shoe and then hook it into the opening in the adjuster lever.
Ensure that the drum brake assembly is centered on the backing plate and that all contact points are properly seated.
Install the correct adjuster in between the two shoes with the wheel or star portion in line with the lever.
Apply anti-seize to the hub face.
Thoroughly clean the inside of the brake drum.
Position it back into place and move it side to side.
If there isn’t any resistance, use a small flat head and turn the adjuster a few clicks.
Check for resistance and make additional adjustments as needed.
The goal here is to achieve minimal resistance between the shoes and the drum.
Once this is correct install the rubber plug into the backing plate.
Go ahead and repeat these steps for the other side.
Pop the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder reservoir.
Fill the reservoir with the correct brake fluid until it reaches the “Max Fluid” line.
Starting at the rear on the passenger side, position a five-sixteenths wrench over the rear bleeder and follow that with a clear piece of hose.
Place the hose inside of a bottle or special fluid cup.
Have a friend pump the brakes two to three times and then hold.
Open the bleeder, and then close it.
Repeat this until fluid begins to flow.
Move to the driver side rear and repeat the steps.
Check the master cylinder fluid level and add additional fluid as needed.
Don’t let the reservoir run empty when bleeding the brakes.
Reinstall the wheels and then get the car on the ground.
Be sure to drive responsibly for a few miles so that the new pads can bed or burnish into the new rotor.
After that, you’re all finished.
Wrapping things up here guys; drum brakes can be intimidating, but it is easier than most people make them out to be.
Of course be sure and drive responsible for a few miles so the new shoes can burnish properly into the drum.
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