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Mustang Master Cylinder & Brake System Parts

LMR.com is your one stop shop for all Mustang master cylinder and master cylinder component needs! Whether you're converting your fox Mustang to rear disc and need a 93 Cobra master cylinder or if you're just replacing the master cylinder reservoir cap cover, LMR.com has what you need to get your Mustang stopping as it should!

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Mustang Master Cylinder & Brake System Parts Tech Info

What is a Master Cylinder?

The brake master cylinder in your Mustang will be the component that converts force from you the driver into a hydraulic pressure to stop the car. When you apply your foot to the brake pedal, a piston is moved through a bore to disperse fluid throughout the brake system.

Throughout the years of the Ford Mustangs’ history, the technology of these master cylinders has advanced over time. Everything from the material of the main body, internal valving, and fluid capacity have all been upgraded over the year to optimize performance.

What Are The Signs of a Bad Master Cylinder?

Diagnosing a bad master cylinder can be fairly simple. One of the common things to look for is a spongy pedal. If you run across this issue, normally this will mean that an internal seal has failed to cause fluid to bypass the piston within the bore. External leaks are another area where a master cylinder can fail.

If any fittings, reservoirs, or sensors attached to the master cylinder are failing, it may be time to consider a new replacement part. Overall, the master cylinder is the heart of your braking system. If this has failed or is on its way out, the safety of you and your Mustang is at risk.

How do you Bleed a Master Cylinder?

There are a few different methods of bleeding or removing any excess air from your master cylinder. The most tried and true method will be the bench bleeding procedure. Because these master cylinders are sealed, the air becomes trapped internally causing the braking system to not function as it should.

Anytime you replace a master cylinder on your Mustang, you do want to fully bleed each of your calipers on disc brake applications and wheel cylinders on early model drum brakes. This will ensure any trapped air is completely out of the system.