2015-17 Mustang Ford Racing Roush Performance Supercharger Installation Guide

How-To Install the Ford Racing/Roush Performance Supercharger

Required Tools:

• 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive socket set
• Cordless Impact
• Drill
• Pliers
• Dremel Tool or other cutting tool
• De-pinning Tool
• Zipties
• Screwdrivers
• Jack and jack stands (Or a lift if you have access to one.)
• Safety Glasses
• Safety Gloves

Installation Instructions:

1. Before you begin installation, disconnect the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) which is located underneath the rear seats on the driver’s side.
2. Then, start the car and allow it to idle until it stalls.
3. Remove the 3 battery cover retainers and disconnect both battery cables with a 10mm socket.
4. If equipped, remove the 4 nuts and strut tower brace with a 15mm socket and then lift up on the engine cover to get it out of the way.
5. Both the engine cover and strut tower brace CANNOT be reused after the supercharger is installed.
6. Disconnect the MAF sensor, remove the plastic push pin holding the MAF wire to the factory air box, and then remove the 10mm bolt that holds the factory air box in place.
7. Disconnect all vacuum lines, the PCV connection, and sound tube from the factory intake pipe.
8. Loosen the hose clamp that holds the factory intake to the throttle body with a 7mm socket, pull back on the factory intake pipe and then remove the intake from the car.
9. Then remove the driver’s side PCV connection and hose from the car.
10. Disconnect the passenger side PCV from the factory intake manifold.
11. Disconnect the throttle body connector by pulling back on the red tab and pressing the black release tab to remove it.
12. Unlock the green connector and disconnect the evaporative emission canister purge valve (EECPV).
13. Mark a cut line on the left hand side of the K-brace using the wiper cowl as a guide.
14. Remove the 6 push pins on the cowl trim panel and lift up on the panel to remove the 2 nuts and 5 bolts that hold the K-brace in place.
15. Slide the K-brace out from the cowl trim panel and remove it from the vehicle.
16. To remove the sound tube, pry up on the push pin located on the strut tower, then remove the 10mm nut on the firewall.
17. Remove the 2 nuts that secure the brake boost vacuum hose and heater hose support bracket to the intake manifold.
18. Disconnect the brake boost vacuum hose from the port at the firewall and remove the brake boost vacuum hose from the car and set it aside since this will be modified later.
19. Then remove the evaporative emission canister purge valve (EECPV) by releasing it from the retainer on the driver’s side cam cover and disconnecting the green quick connect on the firewall.
20. This line will not be reused.
21. Remove the foam fuel rail cover on the driver’s side.
22. Remove the 2 nuts on the passenger side holding the heater hose bracket then remove the passenger side foam fuel rail cover.
23. Next, unplug all 8 fuel injector connections.
24. Remove the 6 intake manifold mounting bolts and the 4 fuel rail bolts.
25. The 4 fuel rail bolts will be reused and removal of the rails is optional.
26. With a pair of hose clamp removal pliers, remove the 3/8” engine coolant hose.
27. Be SURE and depressurize the coolant system by loosing the coolant reservoir cap.
28. Using a fuel line disconnect tool, disconnect the fuel supply hose from the fire wall and from the fuel rail.
29. Have some old rags ready to catch any fuel that will come out of the lines.
30. Lift up on the factory intake manifold and bring it forward to prepare for the next steps.
31. With the intake manifold moved forward, disconnect the CMCV harness.
32. This is done by cutting the retaining clip to remove the harness.
33. Be CAREFUL not to cut the harness itself!
34. Then disconnect the 4 harness connectors and remove the 2 harness push pins that are at the rear of the intake manifold.
35. Go ahead and remove the factory intake manifold from the car.
36. Take this time to cap off any open coolant lines, coolant reservoir and the fuel supply line near the firewall.
37. Remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the fan shroud, and carefully lay to the side.
38. Disconnect the electric fan harness connector on the cooling module.
39. Remove the 2 10mm bolts that secure the shroud to the cooling module, then remove the fan assembly from the car.
40. Take this time to CAREFULLY wipe down the cylinder head intake ports and cover both sides with quality masking or painter’s tape.
41. Moving underneath the car, remove the the lower close-out panel bolts with a 7mm socket, remove all of the attached push pins including the 2 behind the splash shield, and then remove the lower close-out panel from the car.
42. Now you can remove the passenger side front wheel.
43. Remove the 2 outer bolts on the factory radiator support bracket.
44. Insert the rubber grommets and metal sleeves into the lower tab on the heat exchanger.
45. Install the heat exchanger into the position using the 2 previously removed bolts.
46. Torque to 25Nm (Newton Meter) or 18 ft/lbs.
47. Install the 2 J-clips on both frame rail ends.
48. Using the supplied brackets, install them in the correct orientation and tighten them down to 25Nm (18 ft/lbs) with the supplied nuts and bolts.
49. Grab the hose that makes up 3 sides of a square and position this through the close-out panel.
50. Install one of the included hose clamps and slide the hose over the barb on the heat exchanger.
51. Go ahead and install another included hose clamp onto to the other end of the hose, which will connect to the intercooler pump.
52. Using the intercooler pump bracket as a template, place the pump bracket against the frame behind the wiper fluid reservoir mounting bracket and mark both holes.
53. Drill 2 pilot holes with an 1/8” bit, then follow those up with the stated 3/8” bit.
54. Position the intercooler pump into the bracket and tighten it down with the included bolt to 10Nm (7 ft/lbs)
55. Slide the previously installed coolant hose and slide it over the barb on the pump.
56. Postion the pump and pump bracket over the 2 drilled holes, and tighten it down with the included bolts to 25Nm (18 ft/lbs).
57. Finally position the clamp over the hose and the barb on the pump.
58. With the included electrical harness, connect the intercooler pump and lay the remaining connections out of the way.
59. Using the longer, straighter hose, slide an included hose clamp over the end that will connect to the outlet on the intercooler pump.
60. Slide it over the barb on the pump and position the hose clamp into place.
61. Moving to the driver’s side of the heat exchanger, position the other square looking hose into place.
62. Slide an included hose clamp over the hose and position onto the driver’s side exchanger barb.
63. The next steps are very important and will require a steady hand since you will be modifying the timing cover.
64. There will be three areas that need modification. You can use a cut off wheel, Dremel tool, or drill out and cut the holes as we did.
65. We had a few bits meant for machine work laying around so we threw them in the drill and started drilling.
66. Have some WD-40 close by to provide additional lubrication to the timing cover.
67. Once the holes were drilled, we used a body saw and metal blade to cut the bosses on the timing cover.
68. The boss closet to the water pump will need to be cut in half.
69. Next, use a similar cutting tool to remove material from the boss located in the intake valley behind the water pump.
70. Cut uniformly along the boss at an angle using WD-40 as a lubricant.
71. Once all of the cuts have been made, take this time to vacuum up the metal shavings.
72. Loosen the 2 10mm bolts that hold the knock sensors to the engine block.
73. Rotate them until they touch the cylinder heads and tighten the bolts back down to 20-30 Nm (14-22 ft/lbs).
74. Locate the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) connector and harness at the front of the passenger side cylinder head.
75. Using a proper de-pinning tool, pop out the locking tab and remove the connector from the harness.
76. Depress the locking tab and separate the “empty” female connector from the new TPS/ETC extension harness.
77. Populate the new connector such that the yellow with violet wire is in position 1, the blue with green wire is in position 2, the brown wire is in position 3, the blue with orange wire is in position 4, the yellow wire is in position 5 and the green with violet wire is in position 6.
78. Install the red plastic lock into the connector to secure the wires in place.
79. Connect the TPS/ETC extension harness to the newly installed connector.
80. The wire colors on each side of the connector pair should align.
81. Locate the Evaporative Emissions Canister Purge Valve electrical connector (EECPV) at the front of the passenger side cylinder head.
82. Use a proper de-pinning tool to remove the connector from the harness.
83. Depress the locking tab and separate the “empty” female connector from the EECPV (Evaporative Emissions Canister Purge Valve).
84. This connector replaces the connector removed in the previous tep.
85. Carefully pull the white locking tab forward to allow wires to be installed into the connector.
86. Populate the new connector such that the white with brown wire is in position 1 and the green wire is in position 2.
87. Depress the white locking tab to secure the wires.
88. Connect the Evaporative Emissions Canister Purge Valve (EECPV) extension harness to the newly installed connector.
89. The wire colors on each side of the connector pair should align.
90. Set these connections aside as we will route them later.
91. Lift up the fuse box lid by releasing the 2 retaining tabs.
92. Towards the back of the engine block, disconnect the radio capacitor and plug the intercooler pump harness in line with this connector.
93. On the front of the timing cover, remove the nut that holds down the main wiring harness ground.
94. Then remove the stud along with the 4 bolts as shown in the instructions on page 60.
95. Release the tension on the factory tensioner and remove the belt and set it aside since it will be reused.
96. Remove the 3 water pump pulley bolts, and remove the pulley.
97. With the included tensioner bracket, route the new belt through the pulleys and position it onto the timing cover.
98. Torque the bottom 2 tensioner bolts to 25 Newton Meters (18 ft/lbs)
99. Next position the FEAD (Front End Accessory Drive) bracket onto the timing cover.
100. Reinstall one of the previously removed bolts and the 5 included bolts to the FEAD bracket and torque to 25 Newton Meters (18 ft/lbs)
101. Then install the 2 included idler pulleys onto the machined posts of the FEAD bracket.
102. Secure the pulleys using the 2 included bolts and washers and torque to 25 Newton Meters (18 ft/lbs)
103. Reinstall the water pump pulley and ground wire to the upper FEAD bracket.
104. Then route the factory belt back into it’s correction orientation.
105. Retrieve the brake vacuum hose and aspirator assembly and place it on a work bench.
106. Remove the hose clamp and remove the first section from the brake booster hose and aspirator assembly.
107. Release the hose clamp and remove the check valve from the straight end hose.
108. On the other end of the hose, cut off 1 inch and remove the convolute as necessary.
109. Connect the included 1/2” to 3/8” hose reducer into the straight end of the hose and secure it with a clamp.
110. Return to the tube assembly and remove the foam sleeve from the brake aspirator.
Release the clamp and separate the second section from the steel tube. Cut and remove the curved nylon tube from the brake aspirator. Mark a line 2” from the bend coming from the aspirator and cut the hose. On the straight hose, mark and cut 2” from the end of the hose. Then insert the brake booster check valve on the end and secure it with a clamp. Cap the open port on the brake aspirator with the included cap plug. Remove the convolute and carefully cut and remove the quick connect fittings from both ends of the old EECPV line.
111. Install the protective hose sleep over the 36”, 3/8” rubber hose.
112. Install 2 of the included hose clamps onto the ends of the new hose.
113. One clamp on each end.
114. Install the quick connect fittings on the ends of the new hose and secure them with the clamps.
115. Remove the 2 8mm bolts and the Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Valve from the stock intake manifold.
116. Install the valve into the rear of the supercharger using the 2 included bolts and torque them to 8-12 Newton Meters (6-9 ft/lbs or 70-106 in/lbs)
117. Connect the supercharger boost bypass actuator hose to the top port on the actuator and route it to the small port on the supercharger.
118. Connect the brake boost hose to the 90-degree tube at the rear of the supercharger and secure it with the clamp.
119. This was one of the hoses modified from the brake boost vacuum and aspirator assembly.
120. Connect the supercharger bypass reference vacuum line to the bottom fitting on the supercharger bypass actuator.
121. Place the intercooler reservoir template on the top of the fan shroud and align it with the shroud features.
122. Use a center punch or blade to mark the areas needed for modification.
123. Remove the template and further mark the areas to better assist with making the modifications.
124. Cut the marked areas with a cutting tool.
125. Place the template back over the shroud and drill pilot holes for the reservoir bolts.
126. Finish those holes with bit large enough to slide the 2 included J clips through.
127. Slide the 2 included J clips through the top rectangular cut outs on the shroud and the small included clip at the bottom rectangular cut out.
128. Before you install the the supercharger intake manifold and intercooler assembly, plug the sound tube hole with the included body plug.
129. Attach the rubber hose from the included PCV purge hose to the barb at the rear of the supercharger intake manifold.
130. With the intercooler covered, remove the tape from the cylinder heads and position the supercharger intake manifold into place.
131. Install the 6 included bolts into the intake manifold and torque them to 8-12 Newton Meters (6-9 ft/lbs or 70-106 in/lbs).
132. Reinstall the engine wiring harness retention clips at the rear of the intake manifold.
133. Carefully install the 8 new fuel injector clips onto the new fuel injectors.
134. Apply some assembly lube to the injector O-rings and install the included 47lb injectors into the new fuel rail.
135. Lube the lower fuel injector O-rings with assembly lube and carefully install the fuel rail and injectors into the intake manifold.
136. Make sure each injector is properly seated and then tighten the previously removed fuel rail bolts to 8-12 Newton Meters (6-9 ft/lbs or 70-106 in/lbs) following the correct torque sequence.
137. Now, position the supercharger onto the intake manifold and connect the 8 fuel injector electrical connections.
138. Connect the PCV purge line to the PCV valve on the valve cover and the passenger side of the supercharger.
139. Connect the ACT sensor from the ACT harness to the intake manifold.
140. Install the brake aspirator hose assembly by connecting the hose from the supercharger to the 1/2” brake line and secure it with the attached clamp.
141. Connect the check valve on the brake vacuum and aspirator assembly to the brake booster.
142. Install the 10 provided bolts into the supercharger mounting holes that hold it to the intake manifold and torque them to 25 Newton Meters (18 ft/lbs).
143. Install the supercharger pulley onto the hub of the supercharger using the 6 included bolts and torque them to 8-12 Newton Meters (6-9 ft/lbs or 70-106 in/lbs).
144. Release the tension on the supercharger tensioner and slide the belt over the supercharger pulley.
145. Retorque the pulley bolts if needed to 8-12 Newton Meters (6-9 ft/lbs or 70-106 in/lbs).
146. Reinstall the fan shroud assembly, plug in the electrical connection and tighten down the 2 previously removed bolts.
147. Reposition your engine coolant reservoir and tighten it down with the 2 previously removed bolts.
148. Remove the upper coolant hose from the water neck and install the included coolant hose and clamps from the reservoir to the water neck.
149. Install the coolant hose coming from the driver side fitting on the heat exchanger to the lower inlet on the intake manifold and secure it with a clamp.
150. Using the included short coolant hose, install it onto the upper inlet on the intake manifold.
151. Position the coolant reservoir and connect the coolant hose coming from the pump inlet onto the lower inlet on the coolant reservoir.
152. Then, install the included short coolant hose onto the upper inlet on the intake manifold and connect it to the upper inlet on the coolant reservoir.
153. Secure both ends with the included clamps.
154. Tighten down the coolant reservoir with the included bolts.
155. Remove the coil covers by gently pulling up on them.
156. Then, remove the 8, 8mm fasteners holding the coil on plug assemblies in place.
157. Disconnect the electrical connectors for each ignition coil and remove the coil on plug assemblies.
158. Be sure to either label the assemblies or lay them out in relation to how you removed them.
159. Using a 5/8” spark plug socket and extension, remove the passenger side spark plugs.
160. You will need a swivel socket for the passenger side rear plug.
161. Check to ensure the included spark plugs are free of damage and are gapped at .9mm.
162. Place them into the spark plug holes and tighten them down to 14 Newton Meters (10 ft/lbs).
163. Reconnect the electrical connectors and reinstall the coil on projectors.
164. Reinstall the coil covers.
165. We decided to go with an aftermarket coil cover from Ford Racing to give the car a sinister look.
166. Do the same for the driver other side.
167. Route the 36” long Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Valve Line (EECPV) from the back of the supercharger to the body line tube below the brake booster.
168. Install both included gaskets onto the included throttle body spacer and fasten it the supercharger with the 4 included bolts.
169. Torque to 10 Newton meters (7 ft/lbs)
170. Install the throttle body assembly on to the throttle body space using the 4 included bolts and torque to 10 Newton meters (7 ft/lbs).
171. Connect the ETC and TPS electrical connectors to the throttle body.
172. Install the air inlet tube to the throttle body and tighten the hose clamp.
173. Connect the boost by pass line to the small fitting on the inlet tube.
174. Connect the brake aspirator hose assembly to the larger fitting on the air inlet tube.
175. Then, connect the driver side PCV hose to the air inlet tube and valve cover.
176. Position the included air box into the car.
177. Transfer the rubber grommet and bolt from the factory air box.
178. Tighten the bolt to 10 Newton Meter (7 ft/lbs, 88 in/lbs).
179. Place the the MAF Tube Assembly through the opening in the airbox tray.
180. Insert the 2 included J-clips onto the airbox tray.
181. Align the holes on the MAF tube assembly with the J-Clips on the airbox tray and install the 2 included bolts.
182. Tighten the hose clamp that secures the MAF tube and air inlet tube.
183. Transfer the the Mass Air Meter from the factory air intake to the MAF tube assembly using the factory T-20 torx bolts.
184. Connect your MAF connection.
185. Install the filter onto the MAF tube and secure it with the supplied clamp.
186. Install the upper air box cover on the air box tray and tighten the 6 included T-30 Torx bolts.
187. After you install the airbox, take this time to route and ziptie all of your electrical connections.
188. Next, cut the K-brace on the marked are with a cutting wheel or sawzall.
189. Use a vice to secure the K-brace if needed.
190. Once you make your cut, file down any rough edges.
191. Clean the area with brake clean or denatured alcohol and apply a few light coats of satin black paint.
192. Allow the paint to dry and reinstall the K-brace underneath the cowl panel.
193. Tighten down the 5 bolts and 2 strut tower nuts that hold the K-brace in place.
194. Then reinstall the 6 plastic push pins.
195. Reconnect your battery cables, reinstall the battery cover and 3 plastic retainers.
196. Begin filling your supercharger coolant reservoir with quality coolant.
197. Place the included decals in their designated area.
198. Moving back underneath the car, reinstall the closer-out panel with the previously removed hardware.
199. Reinstall your wheel and torque the lugs to the factory, Ford specifications.
200. Throw on the Ford Racing/Roush Performance Supercharger badge and you’re all done!

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