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Mustang Eibach Pro Kit Lowering Springs Install (2015-2025)
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Published on 2014-12-05
Get rid of the ugly wheel gap on your S550 or S650 Mustang with the help of these 2015-2025 Mustang 5.0L Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs! These springs lower your 5.0L on average by approximately 1.1" in the front and 1.0" in the rear. The Pro-Kit springs feature a specific rate for firmer ride quality and a moderate increase in spring rate. This kit can be used with factory shocks and struts, but upgrading to performance shocks & struts is recommended for maximum performance benefit.
Every Eibach Pro-Kit is designed and tested by a suspension engineer and performance driving professional - to offer aggressive good looks and high-performance handling - the best of both worlds without compromising safety or ride quality. By using this proprietary, specific rate spring design, the Pro-Kit provides the ultimate balance that will take your passion for driving to a whole new level.
Transcript
What's going on, guys? Landan with latemodelrestoration.com. Today we're going to be checking out Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs for all 2015 Mustangs. Every Eibach spring kit is designed and tested by a suspension engineer and performance driving professional to offer aggressive looks and high performance handling.
The Pro Kit will rid that ugly factory wheel gap and lower your 2015 Mustang approximately one inch in the front and 3/4 of an inch in the rear. These lowering springs feature a specific rate for a firmer ride and will fit all 2015 EcoBoost, V6, and 5.0 Mustangs.
The kit will also include new bump stops and front dust boots. We measure the factory springs from the ground to the top of the fender and the results were 28 and 1/2 inches for the front and rear. Now let's go ahead and show you how to install the Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs onto your 2015 Mustang.
Begin by placing the car on a lift or jacking it up and placing it on jack stands. Remove the factory lug nuts with a 21 millimeter socket and then remove the wheel. To remove the front strut, start by removing the brake caliber. This is held on by two 15-millimeter bolts.
Once removed, you can set the caliber on the rear of the K-member. Then go ahead and remove the brake rotor and set it aside. Remove the two pushpin clips that route the ABS wire to the ABS sensor.
To remove the strut, use a 21-millimeter open end wrench for the bolt and a 24-millimeter socket for the nut. Loosen both nuts, but do not completely remove it. The strut bolts are splined, so you will have to tap them out with a hammer. Once you have tapped the bolts loose, go ahead and remove the nuts.
Next, loosen the three strut tire bolts with a 16-millimeter socket, but don't completely remove the buts. Tap the strut bolts out and then remove the sway bar end link nut with a 17-millimeter open end wrench and an 18-millimeter deep socket. Then remove the strut tire nuts, the sway bar end link, and remove the strut from the car.
With a set of spring compressors, compress the factory spring. Make sure each spring compressor is placed on the opposite side of one another and compress each side of the spring, alternating back and forth until the bottom of the spring starts to separate from the isolator.
Then remove the small thread cover from the top of the strut and remove the strut mount bolt with a 21-millimeter socket. From there, remove the strut mount and isolator and then slide the spring and dust boot off of the strut.
Be sure and remove your spring compressors from the factory springs. Using the supplied dust boots and bump stops, slide the white bump stop into the dust boot with the flat end facing up towards the top of the strut. Then slide the new bump stop and dust boot over the strut. With the Eibach logo facing up, align the bottom pig tail with the isolator and compress the new spring.
Align the top pig tail of the new spring with the isolator, reinstall your strut mount, and loosely tighten the 21-millimeter nut. Remember to remove your spring compressor from your new Eibach spring.
To reinstall the front strut, start by sliding the strut mount bolts through the strut tower and loosely tighten the three nuts. Slide the strut bolts through the strut and tighten those as well. Reattach your ABS wiring clamps. Reinstall your sway bar end link and tighten it down.
And then go back on with your brake rotor and caliber. When we tighten down the three strut tire nuts, the strut mount nut, and then reinstall your thread cover. Complete the same steps for the other side.
To remove the rear springs, start by placing a jack under the IRS subframe. Fully remove the two subframe bolts with a 22-millimeter socket and partially remove the front subframe bracket bolts with a 13-millimeter socket.
Since we are essentially dropping the IRS subframe, remove the brake line bracket with a 13-millimeter socket so it has some wiggle room. Remove the two bolts that hold the rear shock mount to the chassis with an 18-millimeter socket.
If needed, lower your jack down some to give you a little more room to remove the rear spring. Pull down on the lower control arm a tad and remove the rear spring. With the spring removed, take off the plastic thread cover from the top of the shock, and remove the shock mount nut with a 15-millimeter socket.
Slide out the dust boot and factory bump stop. With the supplied yellow bump stop, slide it over the shock with the flat side facing up. Then slide the factory dust boot over the new bump stop. Next, install the new Eibach spring and make sure both the top and bottom isolators are aligned with their spring pig tails.
Jack up the IRS subframe and reinstall the shock mount, shock mount nut, and plastic thread cover. Reinstall the brake line bracket, and jack up the IRS subframe until you can align it with the bolt holes in the bottom of the chassis.
Tighten down the two subframe to chassis bolts and the two bolts on the front subframe bracket. Do the same for the other side and you're done.
Installation should take you about two to three hours if you're working off of jack stands and about an hour to an hour and a half on a lift. After installation, we re-measured from the ground to the top of the fender and achieved 27 1/2 inches in the front and 28 inches in the rear. Those results are good for an inch drop up front and a half inch out back.
For more 2015 Mustang how-tos, subscribe to our YouTube channel and of course, pick up your Eibach lowering springs from latemodelrestoration.com.
