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1993-1995 F-150 Lightning SVE Aluminum Radiator - Install & Review
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Published on 2018-09-10
1993-1995 SVE Aluminum Radiator.
This SVE aluminum radiator is the perfect replacement for your 1993-1995 Generation 1 Ford Lightning. Bolting right into your SVT F-150, this lightweight piece is a quick and easy fix for a clogged, leaking, or damaged component. Whether you are daily driving, road racing, or drag racing, this radiator is perfect for any Lightning application!
Beat the Heat.
With a 3 row, cross flow design, this aluminum radiator flows more coolant than stock to keep your motor cooler and running more efficiently. Keeping your coolant running freely is key to keeping your cooling system working properly. Pair it up with a new water pump or hose kit to help get your cooling system restored!
- Core - 27-1/2" X 17-7/8" X 2"
- 1-3/4" O.D. Inlet & Outlet Openings
- 18-1/2" - Overall Height excluding mounting tabs and filler neck
- 33" wide overall tank to tank edge
Application: 1993-1995 Ford Lightnings
Item # SVE-8005M
How’s it going everyone? Landan with lmr.com! Welcome to my overview and install on this three row aluminum radiator from SVE designed specifically for the 1993 to 1995 Ford Lightning.
If you’re in the market to replace a damaged or leaking factory radiator… or you simply just want to upgrade your factory radiator in your first gen Lightning… then this three row aluminum radiator from SVE is a great option!
It will incorporate three internal rows which is going to allow for additional coolant capacity and will intern help keep your five point eight liter truck nice and cool.
It’s constructed from quality aluminum and will feature a nice silver finish that has a properly placed black SVE logo on the front of the radiator.
All of the correct bolt holes, bracketry, and mounting provisions are accurately placed so there won’t be any extra modifications needed to install this SVE radiator into your truck.
The inlet and outlet fittings share the same diameter as the factory radiator so your upper and lower hoses will slide right into place.
Not only are those fittings factory spec… but the fittings for the overflow hose and EGR return hose are the correct size which allow those to slide right into place as well.
A new cap is included along with a drain plug so that you can properly maintain your cooling system.
To go along with all of these details… this SVE radiator even has the correct threaded provisions for the transmission cooler line fitting adapters.
These adapters are simply removed from the factory radiator, cleaned, you then apply some Teflon tape to the threads and install them into the SVE radiator.
Of course for those of you that are bypassing these ports and are utilizing a standalone cooler for your transmission… you’ll simply leave these ports open as no coolant or transmission fluid will leak out.
SVE does design this radiator to work with all factory clutch fan setups and electric fan setups that bolt directly to a factory radiator.
Unfortunately, we can’t guarantee that every electric fan setup will work with this radiator.
Again, this radiator will work with all 1993 to 1995 SVT Lightnings.
To begin the install, support the entire truck via a lift or just the front with jack stands.
Open the radiator cap to vent the system.
Position a drain pan underneath the drain plug.
Attach an appropriate size hose over the drain nipple.
Open the drain plug and allow the coolant to begin draining.
Remove the spare wrench from the clips above the core support.
Dislodge and remove the two push pins from the intake pipe.
Fully remove the intake pipe from the truck.
Remove the overflow hose from the upper fitting on the radiator.
Now, remove the egr return hose from the lower fitting.
Move the upper radiator hose clamp.
Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator.
Remove the upper air deflector from the core support.
Spray WD-40 on the transmission cooler fittings.
Loosen the upper fitting with a half inch flare-nut wrench.
Ours wanted to put up a fight, so we applied heat to the fitting for approximately one minute.
Hold the line with a pair of vice grips so that you don’t burn yourself.
Fully remove the upper line and fitting from the radiator.
Position a drain pan underneath the lower cooler line.
Loosen the fitting with a half inch flare-nut wrench as well.
Before fully removing the lower fitting… we opted to remove the lower radiator hose so that we didn’t dump transmission fluid all over the hose.
Remove the lower hose and be prepared for a little coolant to run out.
Position the hose out of the way and then fully remove the line.
Loosen and remove the two five-sixteenths fan shroud to radiator retaining bolts.
WD-40 maybe needed.
Pull up on the shroud to dislodge it from the lower retaining clips.
Position it toward the engine and rest it on top of the clutch fan.
Loosen and remove the two 10mm radiator to core support.
The old radiator is now free to come out.
Be sure and drain any additional coolant from the radiator so that it doesn’t run out and make any extra mess.
Remove the lower clips and upper speed nuts.
Push the metal shell out of the upper mount.
Pass the rubber mount through the opening.
Remove the line adapters from the factory radiator with a five-eighths flare-nut wrench.
Be sure and remove any excess thread sealer from these adapters.
At this time, ensure that the lower insulators are in place.
Wipe these down and go ahead and clean the area.
Place the new radiator on a work bench.
Apply Teflon tape to the threads on the previously removed cooler line adapters.
Install these into the provisions on the new radiator.
Use the five-eighths flare-nut wrench to tighten each adapter.
It is important that you do not overtighten these fittings!!!
Install the upper rubber bushing into the provision on the radiator.
Insert the metal shell into the bushing from the backside.
Do this for the other side.
Transfer the lower clips to the new radiator.
These will be installed into oval-shaped holes at the bottom of the radiator.
Transfer the upper speed clips to the new radiator.
These will install into the thinner oval-shaped holes at the top of the radiator.
Install the radiator into the truck and ensure that the lower brackets are properly positioned onto the lower insulators.
Slide the lower radiator hose onto the outlet on the new radiator.
Reinstall the radiator to core support retaining hardware.
Fully tighten these bolts.
Reposition the hose clamp.
Reinstall the lower cooler fitting into the adapter.
Ensure that the threads are aligned… and then tighten the fitting with the half inch flare-nut wrench.
Reposition the fan shroud into the lower retaining clips.
Align the upper speed nut with the bolt hole in the shroud.
Reinstall and retighten the two bolts.
Reinstall and retighten the upper cooler line fitting into the adapter.
Clean the upper air deflector and then reinstall it.
Reinstall the upper radiator hose and reposition the clamp.
Slide the egr return hose over the new radiator and reposition the hose clamp.
Do the same for the overflow hose.
Reinstall the intake pipe and previously removed push pins.
Reinstall the spare tire rod.
Before filling the system, ensure that the drain valve is closed.
Open the radiator cap.
Remove the rubber hose from the coolant line coming from the thermostat housing.
As you pour the coolant into the radiator… this will allow the air to be bled from the system.
Pour enough coolant into the system until it begins to run out of this hose.
Of course have some rags ready to catch any coolant that runs out.
Reinstall the hose and reengage the clamp.
Install the new radiator cap.
Get the truck to operating temperature and add additional coolant as needed.
After that, you’re all finished!
Alright guys… as far as installation goes, this one is pretty easy especially if you have some sort of mechanical experience.
Of course, if you aren’t quite comfortable with doing the work yourself… have a trustworthy local speed shop do the work for you.
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