About the Video
1979-1993 Mustang 5.0 Resto Ignition Switch Actuator Rod - Install & Review
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Published on 2018-08-13
1979-1993 Mustang 5.0 Resto Ignition Actuator Rod.
This 1979-1993 Mustang 5.0 Resto Ignition Actuator Rod connects your key cylinder with this ignition switch to start your Foxbody. When these break, your car could be stuck in the start or off position and your keys turning with no action. You may also experience a no-start condition. Pick up this direct replacement rod and get your Fox Body back on the road quickly!
Installation Note:
- Does not include spring or pawl. Must reuse the factory spring and pawl.
Application: 1979-1993 Mustang
Item # LRS-63723A
Transcript
What’s up everyone? Landan with lmr.com! In this video, I’m going to be taking a quick look at this ignition switch actuator rod as well as showing you how to install one into your 1979 to 1993 Fox Mustang.
This actuator rod from 5.0 Resto is a high quality replacement that features an OEM design.
Taking a closer a look at this rod you’ll notice it incorporates the correct pin at the bottom of the rod and of course the gear rack at top.
The only components that you will transfer from the factory rod are the spring and pawl.
Now we’ll be installing this actuator rod into our eighty-eight coupe.
The interior in this car is a definite work in progress, so the lower dash trim and steering column trim is already out of the car.
These pieces are easy to remove and are secured in place with a few trim screws and bolts.
With the needed interior components removed from the car…
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Loosen and remove the two, nine-sixteenths nuts securing the hood release bracket to the dash.
Now, loosen the four, nine-sixteenths nuts securing the steering column to the dash.
Do not fully remove these.
Loosening them will allow the steering column to drop approximately a half inch.
Disconnect the ignition switch electrical connector.
The ignition switch is secured to the cylinder with two, T27 tamper-proof Torx bolts.
Remove this hardware and then set the ignition switch aside.
Insert the key into the ignition.
Turn the key to the on position and hold pressure on the pin with small pick.
While holding pressure on the pin, pull out on the ignition cylinder.
Remove it from the housing.
Disconnect the key chime.
Place a mark on the housing where the rod is located for reference when installing the new rod.
Use a pair of small snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from within the housing.
Then, remove the small metal retainer.
Before removing the metal gear, place reference mark at the seven o’ clock position on the housing.
Doing this will aid in the reinstallation of the metal gear.
Now you can remove the metal gear.
On the left side of the steering column, loosen and remove the two Phillips head screws securing the multi-function switch.
Set the multi-function switch out of the way.
Loosen, but do not remove the 13mm bolts securing the column to the ignition cylinder housing.
Maneuver the wheel until the actuator rod is free to come out.
Set the new rod and old rod on a workbench.
Remove spring and pawl from the factory rod.
Be sure and make a note of the factory orientation of the pawl.
Clean each component.
Apply fresh grease to the spring and pawl.
Slide the spring over the shaft on the new rod.
Position the last coil of the spring into the dimple on the pawl.
Apply additional grease to any contact areas such as the gear rack.
Maneuver the wheel and slide the new rod into place.
Retighten the two 13mm bolts.
Take this time to clean the gear and retainer, then and apply a thin layer of grease to the gear.
Use an appropriate tool to reinsert the gear back into the cylinder housing.
Ensure that the pin on the rod is aligned with the mark on the housing.
Ensure that the bottom spline on the gear is facing towards the seven o clock position and then reinstall it.
Reinstall the retainer with the small tab facing towards the seven o clock position.
Reinstall the snap ring.
Reinstall the ignition cylinder and ensure that the gateway lines up.
Reinstall the ignition switch and turn the key until the pin aligns with the switch.
Retighten the Torx screws.
Reconnect the electrical connection.
Connect the negative battery cable and test for operation.
If all of the key positions checks out okay, you're good to go for reassembly.
Disconnect the negative battery cable again.
Reconnect the key chime.
Reposition the multi-function switch and tighten the retaining screws.
Retighten the steering column retaining nuts.
Reposition the hood release bracket and retighten the nuts.
Reassemble the interior components, reconnect the negative battery cable and then you’re good to go.
This a pretty straightforward install guys. We did find that dropping the steering column is a lot easier to do than removing the cluster surround.
The reason why we did that is so we could remove the upper T-27 tamper-proof Torx screw from the ignition switch.
Now other than ensuring that the gear fully rotates on the rack allowing the key to fully engage and disengage, everything else is a piece of cake.
