About the Video
2018-2023 Mustang GT JLT Cold Air Intake - Dyno & Review (5.0L)
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Published on 2018-12-07
Increase the horsepower and torque of your already potent, direct injected 2018-2023 Mustang GT with this JLT cold air intake kit! Factory intake systems have come a long way in recent years, but still, restrict air that your Coyote engine craves. JLT's 2018-2023 cold air kit features a large, 5" filter inlet with a radiused end for smooth airflow across your mass air meter. The 120mm molded MAF allows a massive amount of cold air to enter your engine and maximize performance. JLT's fully computerized design optimizes space in your engine compartment, as well as provides a factory fit and finish!
Installation Note
A custom tune is required for this cold air intake.
Application
-Fits 2018-2023 Mustang GT
Stock Dyno Pull: 411HP/395TQ at SAE
- 93 Octane
- 10 Speed Automatic (7th Gear Pull at 1:1)
- 19" Rear Wheels
After Dyno Pull: 444HP/408TQ at SAE
- +33HP/+13TQ
- JLT Cold Air Intake
- Lund Racing Custom Tune
- 93 Octane
- 10 Speed Automatic (7th Gear Pull at 1:1)
- 19" Rear Wheels
Transcript
What’s up everyone? Landan with lmr.com! Today I have JLT’s cold air intake kit for the 2018 to 2019 Mustangs GTs. I’ll be providing an overall product breakdown, showing you guys the easy installation steps, and of course dynoing the car to see how much power you can expect with this cold air intake paired with a Lund Racing custom tune.
This JLT cold air intake kit is going to be for the 2018 to 2019 GT owner out there wanting one of the best cold air kits on the market.
JLT was one of the first to market a cold air kit for the Gen 3 coyote and they did so by referencing their R&D from the GT350 kit.
This kit provides everything you need to install it into your S550 with the only exception being a handheld tuner. (((and I’ll touch base on that a little bit later)))
Taking a closer look at what actually comes in the kit… you’ll get an inlet tube that features a massive 120mm opening for the mass air flow. This tube does have radiused ends for smooth airflow and necks down to a four and a half inch opening to support larger diameter throttle bodies if that is something you installed or plan to install later on down the road.
The inlet tube has both connections for the passenger side PCV and evap hoses.
It will not have the provision for the sound tube, but JLT does tell you where that needs to positioned on the tube if that is something you are still wanting to have on your car… they even provide the necessary hardware to delete the sound tube or keep it installed if you so choose.
Their heat shield is fully roto-molded so it’s going to provide a nice fit and finish in the engine bay, and includes the fresh air duct to properly accept cool fresh air from the front of the car just like the factory air box.
JLT provides an industry leading air filter element manufactured by S&B which is washable and reusable. JLT recommends filter maintenance every time the car is due for an oil change.
They also provide a silicone coupler for the inlet tube to throttle body connection, and all necessary hardware for the install.
Now switching gears back to the handheld tuners… out of the box, the SCT BDX tuner has a pre-loaded SCT tune file for this JLT cold air intake kit.
If you’re wanting to go ahead and jump right into a custom tune, be sure and check out our SCT BDX and nGauge tuner packages both with custom tunes from Lund Racing.
Before we install the JLT cold air intake kit, we are going to get a baseline dyno of the car in stock trim.
Our 2018 Mustang GT is an automatic car with the performance pack.
This means we’ll do a pull in seventh gear because that is the 1:1 ratio for the 10R80 transmission, and there is 93 octane fuel in the tank.
Our initial run in stock trim is 411HP at 6600rpms and 395 foot-pounds of torque at 4500rpms.
So now that we have our baseline numbers, I’ll install the JLT cold air intake kit and Lund Racing custom tune.
Install
Start by removing the battery cover.
This is held in place with three push pins.
Loosen the positve battery cable hold down nut with a 10mm socket.
Remove the cable from the battery and dislodge the harness clip.
Loosen and remove the four 15mm nuts securing the strut tower brace if equipped.
There are two per side.
Remove the strut tower brace.
Use a small flat head to remove the two access covers from the engine cover.
Loosen and remove the two 10mm nuts.
Pull up on the cover to remove it from the car.
Depress and remove the quick connect on the frontward side of the inlet elbow.
Release tension on the hose clamp securing the sound tube to the inlet elbow if equipped.
Remove the hose from the inlet elbow.
Remove the push pin from the driver side strut tower.
The easiest way to remove the 10mm nut securing the sound tube to the firewall is with a long extension, a wobble or swivel adapter and a deep socket.
Once the nut is removed, pull out on the sound tube and remove it from the car.
Remove the passenger side PCV connection from the inlet tube and rotate it out of the way.
Release the red locking tab on the mass air flow connection.
Depress the tab and remove it from the air box lid.
Dislodge the harness clip from the air box.
Now you can remove the 10mm air box hold down bolt.
Loosen the hose clamp securing the inlet elbow to the throttle body with a 7mm socket.
Slide the inlet elbow off of the throttle body and then remove the factory cold air intake assembly from the car.
If you’re removing the sound tube, use the provided body plug to cover the hole at the firewall.
Remove the large rubber grommet from the factory air box.
Also remove the metal shell and smaller rubber grommet.
Install both the smaller grommet and metal shell into the JLT box.
Place the larger grommet into its designated area in the fender apron.
Position the JLT box into the car and make sure the dowel seats into the large rubber grommet.
Reinstall the hold down bolt and fully tighten.
Slide the air duct towards the upper grille.
Verify that it lines up with the opening and that the frontward peg passes through the box.
Loosen and remove the two T-20 mass air flow retaining screws.
Carefully remove the meter from the factory lid.
Place the provided gasket over the mass air flow sensor.
Correctly orientate the sensor and install it into the JLT elbow.
Use the provided Phillips-head screws to secure the mass air flow sensor.
If you are going to be keeping the sound tube, measure 3 inches from the pre-installed PCV fitting and place a mark.
Drill a 1-1/4 inch hole in the elbow and install the rubber grommet.
Then install the provided plastic fitting.
We’re deleting our sound tube so we skipped these steps.
Go ahead and preinstall two clamps onto the silicone reducer.
Be mindful of the diameter change on the reducer…
Install the silicone reducer onto the throttle body.
Snug down the clamp that secures the reducer to the throttle body.
Install the air filter onto the JLT elbow and tighten the clamp.
Slide the intake pipe into the reducer.
Verify that it’s properly positioned and then fully tighten the clamp.
Fully tighten the smaller clamp.
Install the EVAP line onto the lower fitting near the degas bottle.
Connect the PCV line to the fitting on the intake pipe.
Install the harness clip to its designated hole in the JLT box.
Reconnect the mass air flow sensor and then push in on the red locking tab.
Reinstall the engine cover and its associated hardware.
Go ahead and reinstall the strut tower brace if equipped and tighten the hardware.
Reinstall the harness clip back onto the strut tower stud.
Reconnect the positive cable and tighten the hold down nut.
Reinstall the battery tray cover.
Use the provided foam piece and install it over intake pipe.
This is utilized to help keep as much heat away from the filter as possible.
At this time you can double check work.
Once you’ve determined everything is good to go, plug in your handheld tuner and flash the PCM with either the SCT tune or custom tune.
It may be in your best interest to connect a battery charger when flashing the PCM.
Follow the on-screen instructions on your tuner to correctly load the tune file.
Start the car and drive it around to verify everything is working correctly.
After that, you’re good to go!
With the JLT cold air intake now on the car and our custom tune from Lund ready to rock and roll… let’s turn the rollers and then take a look at the results.
Man these Gen 3 coyotes really respond well to simple bolt-on modifications!
With the JLT cold air intake and Lund tune, our 2018 Mustang GT put down a very impressive 444HP at 6800rpms and 408 foot-pounds of torque at 4600rpms.
Peak gains were 33HP and 13 foot-pounds of torque on 93 octane fuel.
Now because of the factory speed limiter, we were only able to take the car to 6600rpms on our baseline pull which the car was turning about 150mph.
Could it have made more power without the speed limiter, probably so? But, this is what you can except from your bone stock Gen 3 coyote.
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