About the Video
How To Install SVE Mustang GT Aluminum Radiator (05-10)
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Published on 2017-11-14
Purchase: https://latemodelres.to/SVE-8005E
Overhaul the cooling system in your 2005-2010 Mustang with this premium SVE aluminum radiator! From the factory, your Mustang was equipped with a very thin radiator that utilized plastic end tanks. After years of heat cycles and track day abuse, these end tanks tend to crack, causing coolant leaks. To eliminate this issue, SVE has designed a 100% aluminum radiator that improves heat dissipation to increase efficiency, ultimately keeping your engine temperatures low on and off the track! This SVE radiator is a direct bolt-on that will install quickly to replace any clogged, leaking, or damaged factory radiator.
SVE Quality
SVE's aluminum radiator features a triple-core, cross-flow design that improves the coolant flow over your factory radiator. The 3-row design and all-aluminum tanks increase coolant capacity to ensure your S197 is running cool at all times. Beautiful TIG welds flow across all seams of the radiator to ensure leak-free performance that lasts. High-efficiency air fins allow maximum airflow in any driving condition. A plastic drain plug with a rubber o-ring is included for easy servicing. Factory size inlets and outlets are utilized to make this SVE radiator the perfect choice for your S197 Mustang!
Radiator Dimensions
Width: 27.5"
Heighth: 18.5"
Depth: 3.0"
Installation Note
When installing this radiator into a 2011-2014 Mustang, the main difference is that there is a lower close-out panel and there are no power steering cooler lines present.
The 2011-2014 application still utilizes the same studs, nuts, and bolts for the condenser and transmission cooler lines (if equipped).
Application
Fits 2005-2014 Mustang w/ 3.7, 4.6, & 5.0
Item # SVE-8005E
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#LMR #SVE #Install
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Transcript
To begin, make sure the car has cooled off. DO NOT open the cooling system while under pressure.
Go ahead and vent the overflow tank cap and then support the car via a lift or jack stands.
Remove the plastic push pins securing the radiator cover and then set this aside.
For additional clearance and work room, I went ahead and removed the cold air intake that was on this car.
Loosen and remove the 8mm retaining bolt securing the power steering reservoir to the fan shroud.
Rotate this out of your way and make sure that it is upright so fluid doesn’t run out.
Slide the small hose clamp back away from the reservoir.
Place a rag underneath hose and then remove it from the reservoir.
Loosen and remove the two 8mm bolts securing the reservoir to the fan shroud.
Carefully position the reservoir out of your way.
Go ahead and remove the two upper radiator hold down brackets.
These are secured to the core support with 10mm bolts.
From underneath the car, remove the 5.5mm screws securing the lower splash shield to the front bumper and lower radiator support.
Set the lower splash shield aside.
Position a drain or bucket underneath the drain plug on the radiator.
Place a piece of hose onto the nipple and then remove the drain plug.
While the coolant is draining from the system, locate the two 10mm nuts on each side of the radiator.
Remove these and set them aside.
Up top, remove the upper hose from the radiator and position it out of your way.
Locate the electrical connection for the fan and disconnect it.
Just above the electrical connection, remove the other 8mm fan shroud retaining bolt.
Remove the fan shroud from the car.
Now, locate and remove the two 8mm bolts securing the upper brackets for the A/C condenser.
There is one bolt per side.
Position the drain pan or bucket underneath the lower radiator hose and remove it from the radiator.
You may have to position the hose out of its support bracket to completely remove it from the radiator.
Be sure and remove the bucket or drain pan, and the hose from the nipple on the radiator.
Because of the lower studs, I found it easiest to drop the radiator out from the bottom.
With the factory radiator out of the car, remove the two lower studs.
This done by using an inverted Torx bit or in my case a pair of channel locks.
Someone had been here before and had broken the tip of the stud completely off.
Transfer these to the front of the new radiator and into the lower thread inserts.
Then, carefully tighten them down.
Unlike the removal process, I positioned the new SVE radiator into place from the top.
Make sure the lower locating dowels are positioned into the rubber isolators on the lower radiator mount.
Now, reusing the factory hardware, install the upper condenser bracket into the upper thread insert on the radiator.
Do this for both sides.
Slide the condenser into the upper brackets and then position it over the studs.
Reposition the power steering cooler and retighten the two 10mm nuts.
Make sure the drain plug is installed and fully tightened.
Reinstall the lower splash shield.
Reposition the lower radiator hose and clamp.
Also, make sure the hose is fully seated in the support bracket.
Reinstall the two upper radiator hold down brackets.
Reposition the fan and tighten down the passenger side retaining bolt.
Reconnect the electrical connection.
Reinstall the upper radiator hose and clamp.
Reposition the overflow tank and retighten the hardware.
Do the same for the power steering reservoir.
On the factory radiator, remove the small hose from the nipper and transfer it to the new radiator.
Be sure and reinstall it onto the nipple on the overflow tank.
Reposition the air box, and then reinstall and reconnect its components.
Remove the overflow tank cap.
Use a funnel and fill the cooling system with fresh coolant.
Fill the coolant reservoir with fresh coolant until it reaches the “cold fill range”.
Start the car and let the water pump circulate the coolant.
Add any additional coolant, turn the car off and tighten the cap.
Reinstall the radiator cover.
If you’re adding more coolant, be sure the car is off and cool to the touch.
At operating temperature, the system is under pressure.
Double check everything and you’re all finished.
