How To Install Mustang Shocks & Struts | 2015-2023

Mustang Shock & Strut Installation (15-23)

Improve ride quality and handling in your lowered 2015-2023 Mustang with Steeda's Pro-Action shock and strut kit! Steeda specifically designed this kit to work with lowered suspension. Street and track technology have been combined to achieve maximum compression valving which provides quicker reaction while driving. This kit features rebound adjustability to improve ride comfort on the street, or to stiffen things up at the track. This eliminates choppy stock ride, reduces nose dive, as well as wheel hop.

Tools Needed

• Socket Wrench Set
• Spring Compressor
• Drill
• 12mm Drill Bit

2015-2023 Mustang Shock & Strut Installation Instructions

1. To get things started, support the car via a lift or jack stands.




2. Remove both front wheels & both rear wheels.




3. Starting in the front, remove the two 15mm brake caliper to spindle retaining bolts and set the caliper on the rear of the k-member.




4. Remove the brake rotor and set it aside.




5. Use a plastic pry tool to remove the two harness clips from the factory strut. To make some room, disconnect the MAF sensor connection and remove the push pin from the air box.




6. To remove the sway bar end link from the strut, use a 17mm open end wrench on the end link stud and an 18mm deep socket on the nut. Once the nut is removed, position the end link out of your way.




7. Support the lower control arm with a jack.




8. Loosen and remove the two 24mm strut to spindle retain nuts.




9. Flip these around and rethread them back onto the bolt. Ensure that the flange on the nut is even with dog point on the bolt. Strike each bolt with a hammer until the bolt is free from the spindle.




10. Leave these in place and then remove the strut shaft retaining nut with a 21mm socket.This method will allow the spring to be removed from the strut without the use of spring compressors.




11. Carefully lower the jack until the spring is unloaded. Remove the strut to spindle hardware followed by the strut and spring.




12. On the strut tower, remove the three 15mm upper strut mount retaining nuts. Be sure and hold the mount with one hand to keep it from falling on the ground. Go ahead and set this aside.




13. With everything on a work bench, remove the spring, bump stop and lower isolator from the factory strut.




14. Compress the spring, position the strut into spring making sure the lower pigtail is aligned with the lower isolator.




15. Make note of the spring mark on the upper isolator; install it onto the spring and align it with the upper pigtail.




16. Install the Steeda camber plate onto the bearing assembly and make sure it fully seated.




17. Apply blue Loc Tite to the strut shaft threads. Position the lock washer over the shaft and then thread on the nut.




18. Finger tighten the nut and then release the spring compressors enough to establish some preload. Torque the nut to seventy pound feet.




19. Fully remove the strut and spring assembly from the spring the spring compressors. Ensure that the tapered point on the plate is facing toward the outside of the car. Position the strut assembly into the car.




20. Place a washer over the stud followed by a nyloc nut. When tightening the three nuts, make sure the strut shaft is centered within the strut tower opening.




21. Fully torque each 17mm nyloc nut to thirty-seven lb-ft.




22. Position the spindle into the strut and align the hole openings. Install two new splined bolts through the strut and spindle. Thread on two new nuts and fully torque to 184 lb-ft.




23. Position the end link into the strut and torque the 18mm retaining nut to 85 lb-ft.




24. Reattach the two harness clips.




25. Reinstall the rotor and use a lug nut to hold it in place.




26. Reposition the brake caliper and torque the two 15mm retaining bolts to 85 lb-ft.




27. Be sure and remove the lug nut before reinstalling your wheels & repeat these steps for the other side.




28. Moving to the rear, remove the two upper shock bracket bolts with an 18mm socket and pull the shock bracket away from the two studs on the body.




29. Underneath the control arm, remove the two 15mm retaining bolts and then remove the factory shock from the car.




30. Remove the dust cap from the upper shock bracket. Loosen and remove the 13mm retaining nut.




31. Remove the upper shock bracket followed by the bump stop and dust cover. Using a 12mm drill bit, drill out the upper shock bracket. Be sure and use plenty of lubrication. Clean the bracket and then debur the hole.




32. Remove the two nuts and small spacer from the Steeda shock. Ensure that the nylon washer is in place and then transfer the bump stop and dust cover. The flat side of the bump stop will be facing toward the top of the car.




33. Place the upper shock bracket over the shaft with the counter sunk hole facing down.




34. Slide the small spacer over the shock shaft followed by one of the supplied nuts.




35. Torque the first nut to 22 lb-ft. Apply some blue Loc Tite to the threads, and then snug down the second nut.




36. Position the shock into the car and loosely thread the two lower 15mm bolts. Push down on the shock to place the upper bracket underneath the studs on the body.




37. Reinstall the two 18mm bolts and fully tighten. Fully tighten the lower 15mm bolts. Repeat these steps for the other side.




38. Before reinstalling the wheels, set the rebound rate of the rear shock.




39. Rotate the valve with the provided tool all the way to full soft which is the clockwise direction. Steeda recommends one full turn back from this for daily driven Mustangs.




40. Count the flats on the tool and rotate the valve counter-clockwise one full turn. Do the same for the front strut.




41. Reinstall all of the wheels and get the car on the ground. Double check your work, take the car for a test drive, and then you’re all finished.