How To Swap Mustang AOD to T5 Transmission: Stage 2

Posted 1/18/2017 by Tyler Rodriquez

In stage 2 of our Mustang T5 conversion, we tackle the task of removing your stock pedal assembly, prepping your manual pedal assembly, and installing your manual pedal assembly.

FOLLOW: mustang , aod , t5 , aod to t5 swap , 79 93 mustang

In this stage of your Mustang T-5 conversion, you will need to source a manual brake pedal assembly. This is relatively easy and can be done with common tools.

While removing all of your parts, make sure to keep up with what went where. Labeling, taking pictures, anything else you may need to do can help save time and headaches during reassembly.



About the Video

How To: Mustang AOD to T5 Transmission Swap - Part 2 (1984-1993)

Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related!

Published on 2017-01-12
One of the more popular swaps known to the Fox platform is swapping the boring AOD automatic transmission for that of a T5. Now granted, we all prefer our own setups, and that's totally fine. But, let's be honest? Bangin' gears in a Fox Mustang is about as American as you can get!

Part two will cover pedal assembly removal, manual pedal assembly prep which includes the clutch quadrant and neutral safety switch, reinstallation of the new pedal assembly and reinstallation of the steering column. This video series will cover 1984 to 1993 5.0L Fox Body Mustangs equipped with an AOD transmission.
Transcript
How's it going everybody? Landan with Late Model Restoration. It's time for part two of our AOD to T5 swap series. This segment will cover pedal assembly removal, manual pedal assembly prep which includes the clutch quadrant and neutral safety switch, reinstallation of the new pedal assembly and reinstallation of the steering column. Let's check it out!

First and foremost, if you haven't taken a look at part one of the series, I highly recommend doing so. That video can be viewed by clicking the link in the video description.

Most of the needed parts are currently available from our site, LMR.com. The only component that is currently unavailable is the manual pedal assembly which is needed during this part of the series. These can be sourced from your local salvage yard.

Keep in mind when sourcing a pedal assembly. If at all possible, be on the lookout for a pedal assembly from a 1984 to 1993 V8 Fox. While a pedal assembly from a four cylinder will work, it does have a shorter clutch arm. For a complete list of parts, check out the link in the video description.

Part two is obviously going to pick up where part one left off; and that was with the removal of the steering column.

With the column now out of your way and with some decent working space, remove any bracket and or component that is secured to the pedal assembly. Once that is done, remove the four retaining nuts that secure the pedal assembly to the firewall. Extensions and swivel sockets will help out tremendously when removing the pedal assembly.

Pry the electrical connector off of the brake light switch and remove the cotter pin. Rotate the plastic clip and then use a small pry bar to carefully remove the brake light switch and booster rod from the stud on the brake pedal.

Set the clip, cotter pin, and brake light switch aside. Now, remove the remaining retaining screws that are securing the pedal assembly to the underside of the dash. Use a small pry bar to help give you some leverage so that the pedal assembly can be maneuvered out from underneath the dash.

Once you have the pedal assembly free, disconnect the cruise control brake dump hose if equipped and remove the automatic pedal assembly from the car.

Set the manual pedal assembly on a workbench. Take this time to transfer the brake dump valve and insert if needed. This valve simply unscrews from the insert. When doing this, count how many turns it takes to remove the valve.

Install the insert if needed and then thread the valve into the insert. Now is a perfect time to upgrade to one of our SVE double hook quadrants. To do this, simply remove the cotter pins and use a small pry bar to free the helper springs from the plastic quadrant and self adjuster. Remove the quadrant, self adjuster, and helper springs from the pedal assembly.

Wipe down the quadrant studs with some WD-40 and position the new quadrant. Secure it into place with the previously removed cotter pins.

On the far left side of the pedal assembly, remove the retaining nut from the threaded stud and the cotter pin from the smaller stud. Position the neutral safety switch into place. The plastic rod will slide over the smaller stud while the plastic insert on the body of the switch will slide over the threaded stud. Reinstall the cotter pin and tighten the retaining nut.

Take the manual pedal assembly and position it into the car. This pedal assembly will attach the exact same way as the automatic assembly. Be sure and position the pedal assembly over the studs on the underside of the dash.

To help hold the pedal assembly in place while you work, go ahead and tighten the top retaining bolt removed earlier. Transfer and reinstall the booster rod, brake light switch, and clip in the same orientation. Once that is done, reinstall the cotter pin and reattach anything that was attached to the pedal assembly.

Now you can reinstall the four pedal assembly to firewall retaining nuts. Remove both jumpers from the automatic wiring harness. These two are located on the left side and will plug into the neutral safety switch. You can't mess these up because they will only plug into the switch one way.

Locate the jumper on the right side of the pedal assembly. Remove it and plug this connection into the clutch dump switch. Be sure and zip-tie this harness out of the way.

On the top most threaded studs on the pedal assembly, retighten the previously removed nuts to secure the pedal assembly to the underside of the dash. Take this time to reconnect the brake light switch.

Have a friend help you reposition the steering column over the steering shaft. Reinstall the previously removed bolt and nut. If the column came out in two pieces, slide the main piece of the over the shorter one.

Align the column with the studs and vertical mount. Retighten the previously removed retaining hardware. Go ahead and reconnect all of your electrical connections and give everything a good final once over.

That completes all of the needed steps for part two.

There ya have it fellas! That completes part two of the AOD to T5 swap. The work was performed on a 1988 coupe which does have EFI. So, a few of these steps are obsolete for you 1984 and 1985 owners. However, all of these steps provide a good understanding for both parties.

For more information on the swap, click the link in the description. Next up is part three. To stay up-to-date with this swap, subscribe to our YouTube channel if you haven't already done so. Until next time guys, keep it right here with the real Fox Body enthusiasts, LMR.com!