About the Video
2015-2017 Mustang GT Ford Performance Stage 3 Power Pack - Install & Dyno
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Published on 2017-01-30
Improve performance and horsepower in your 2015-2017 Mustang GT with this Ford Performance Intake and Calibration Power Pack 3! These calibrations feature exclusive Ford proprietary software and engineering backed by a Ford Performance warranty. This Power Pack includes a GT350 cold air intake, GT350 intake manifold, 87mm throttle body and Ford calibrator. This kit increases performance by 37hp and 5 lbs/ft torque peak gains over stock to the flywheel. At 7,500 RPM they saw a spike of 60 horsepower on an engine dyno!
Features:
Along with horsepower and torque gains, Ford Performance calibrators also include these features.
-Ford Performance calibrations are 50 state legal with CARB EO.
-Calibrations available for manual and automatic transmission.
-Allows gear ratio changes up to 4.09:1.
-Automatic calibrations feature optimized performance shift schedule.
-Premium fuel, 91 octane or higher, is required.
-Features exclusive no-lift shift strategy and enhanced throttle response.
Calibration Notes:
-Ford Performance ProCal tool, included with all calibrations, requires laptop and internet access for calibration install.
-At this time Power Packs are sold separately and cannot be upgraded without the purchase of an entire kit.
-Powertrain calibrations are developed and supported for U.S. and Canadian vehicles.
-Federal and state laws prohibit any person from installing aftermarket add-on or modified parts prior to the sale of a new motor vehicle.
Note:
Ford Performance's horsepower and torque numbers were generated on an engine dyno. Individual results may vary.
Stock Dyno: 395HP/370TQ
- Ford Performance GT350 Sport Catback Exhaust
- Manual MT-82 (5th gear pull at 1:1)
- 3.73 Gears
- 93 Octane
- 19" Wheels
After Dyno: 432HP/380TQ +37HP/+10TQ
- Ford Performance Stage 3 Power Pack
- Ford Performance GT350 Sport Catback Exhaust
- Manual MT-82 (5th gear pull at 1:1)
- 3.73 Gears
- 93 Octane
- 19" Wheels
Mustang Fitment: 2015-2017 GT w/ 5.0L
Item # M9452M8
MPN # M-9452-M8
Transcript
What’s up everybody? Landan with Late Model Restoration. It’s time for round three covering the Ford Performance power packs for the 2015 to 2017 Mustang GT’s. This video will cover my review, install, and dyno runs on the stage three power pack from Ford Performance.
If you’re in the market for more horsepower and torque in your 2015 to 2017 Mustang GT and want to keep things clean and simple; you should definitely check out this stage 3 power pack from Ford Performance.
This power pack is going to feature the same throttle body, cold air intake and intake manifold found on the GT350, and of course an exclusive calibration for this particular setup. The throttle body features an 87mm opening versus the factory 80mm to allow more air in therefore resulting in more power. The cold air intake arrives pre-assembled with a high-flow paper filter, inlet tube, and air box. Topping off the components list is the GT350 intake manifold. Like the cold air intake, this manifold arrives pre-assembled with all needed EVAP lines and CMCV assembly.
Aside from those three key components, this kit includes Ford Performance’s ProCal tool. This tool allows for calibrations of both manual and automatic transmissions. Manual Mustang owners get an exclusive no-lift strategy, which by the way works extremely well, while automatic owners get increased line pressure for faster, more positive shifts. The ProCal tool increases throttle response to the throttle body, allows adjustment of rear end gears if you plan on switching those out, and the ability to read diagnostic trouble codes.
When you open the box you’ll find the GT350 throttle body, GT350 cold air intake, GT350 intake manifold, of course the ProCal tool, all needed installation hardware, calibration sheet with code and instructions.
Keep in mind when purchasing this kit; a laptop computer and Internet is required to operate the ProCal tool and whenever you flash the PCM with the Ford Performance calibration. On that note, Ford Performance requires a minimum of ninety-one octane when running this stage three power pack.
Ford Performance does rate this kit at thirty-seven peak horsepower and five pound feet of torque over a factory car. This stage three kit is 50-state legal and retains the vehicles warranty as long as an authorized Ford dealership completes the install. For more information on the warranty, click the link in the video description, or check it out on the product page.
Okay guys, I’m going to get our 2015 Mustang GT on the dyno and get a baseline pull. The only modification to the car as it sits is a Ford Performance GT350 catback exhaust with the sport mufflers. This car is a Performance Pack car so it has a six speed MT-82 manual transmission and 3.73 rear end gears.
For a good starting point before the stage three power pack, our 2015 GT managed to make three hundred and ninety-five horsepower at sixty five hundred RPMS and three hundred and seventy pound feet of torque at thirty-nine hundred RPMS. Those are SAE corrected numbers with a fifth gear pull and ninety-three octane fuel.
Alright fellas, I am now going to show you the detailed steps on installing the stage 3 power pack from Ford Performance onto your 2015 to 2017 five point oh equipped Mustang.
To begin, push the center release tabs on each side of the rear seat cushion.
Lift up on the cushion and disconnect the Fuel Pump Driver Module connection.
Start the car and allow it to idle until it stalls.
Remove the battery cover and disconnect the negative and positive cables.
Position the positive cable out of the way so you can remove the strut tower brace if equipped.
Remove the four 15mm retaining nuts securing the strut tower.
There are two per side.
Set the strut tower brace aside.
Lift up on the engine cover to remove it from the factory manifold.
Release the red lock tab on the Mass Air Flow sensor connection and then disconnect it.
Remove the push pin from the air box and position the connection out of the way.
Remove the air box to inner fender bolt with a 10mm socket.
Disconnect the vacuum and driver side PCV connections on the intake.
Use a pair of pliers or a hose clamp tool to remove the clamp securing the sound tube to the factory inlet elbow.
Pry it free from the air box and strut tower.
Use a 10mm stubby ratchet wrench to remove the nut on the firewall that secures the sound tube.
Once the nut is free, pull out on the tube to remove it.
Plug the hole with the provided firewall plug.
Loosen the hose clamp on the factory inlet elbow with a 7mm nut driver.
Pull out on the elbow and remove the factory air intake from the car.
Slide the red locking tab out and then disconnect the throttle body electrical connection.
Remove the four throttle body retaining bolts with an 8mm socket and six inch extension.
Set these bolts aside since they will be reused.
Remove the passenger side PCV line or oil separator if equipped.
Disconnect the EVAP solenoid electrical connection.
Slide back the green lock tab and then remove the EVAP line from the solenoid.
Then use a hose clamp tool or a pair of pliers to remove the brake booster hose from the intake manifold.
Remove the four 10mm retaining nuts that secure the heater hose supports.
On the passenger side, carefully pull the hose out and away of the support and foam cover.
Remove the support and foam from the fuel rail and set them aside.
Disconnect the fuel injector connections.
*Pause
Do the same for the other side.
Remove the vacuum tube from the brake booster and then remove it from the car.
Grab some safety glasses and old rags.
Position the rags underneath the fuel line.
Push the blue tab in and then pull out on the fuel line to remove it from the rail.
Rap the line with some rags and position it out of you way.
Clean up any fuel that ran out and then cap the fuel rail.
Remove the six intake manifold to cylinder head bolts with an 8mm socket and six inch extension.
There are three per side.
Then remove the four fuel rail retaining bolts with a 10mm socket.
There are two per side.
At the back of the intake manifold, disconnect the two IMRC solenoid connections.
Pick the intake manifold up and bring it forward as much as it will go.
Disconnect the two, white IMRC sensor connections
There is one per side.
Then release the two cable ties that secure the wiring harness to the back of the intake manifold.
Once those are free, remove the intake from the car.
Use some quality brake clean and a clean rag to clean the top of the cylinder heads.
Tape off all of the open intake ports on the cylinder heads.
On the rear wiring harness, cut away the electrical tape to free the black electrical connection.
Now, cut open the convoluted tubing to expose the wires.
Remove the electrical tape and then separate the IMRC solenoid connection wires from the exposed harness.
These are the two blue connections.
Unwrap the harness tape from the wires so that the two connections are now free-floating.
Re-tape the main harness.
Use some of your own convoluted tubing to cover the exposed wires.
Secure the convoluted tubing with electrical tape.
Take this time to cover any exposed wire with electrical tape.
Cut away the electrical tape on the blue and white IMRC connections.
Re-tape the black harness connection to the main harness in the same way before you made the modifications.
On the factory manifold, pull up on the fuel rails to remove the injectors.
Take this time to clean the tips of the injectors.
Remove the two vacuum lines on the IMRC solenoids and rotate the line out of the way.
Position the fuel rail and injectors into place.
Press down firmly to seat them into the new manifold.
Reposition the vacuum line and reinstall the two hoses back onto the IMRC solenoids.
On the factory manifold, remove the passenger side PCV inlet by removing the 8mm retaining bolt.
Clean the inlet if necessary and then position it into the GT350 manifold.
Use the provided hardware since this is now fine thread instead of coarse thread.
Torque the bolt to eighty-nine inch pounds.
Go ahead and repeat these steps for the EVAP solenoid.
Remove the two retaining bolts, clean the solenoid and position it into the GT350 manifold.
Use the provided hardware to secure it and torque to eighty-nine inch pounds.
On the back of the new GT350 manifold, notice the two cable tie provisions.
These are closer together than they are on the factory manifold.
Use the provided grey 25mm off-set cable tie on the driver side of the harness and position it roughly three quarters inches to the inside of the black cable tie.
Then us the provided grey 12.5mm off-set cable tie on the passenger side of the harness and position it roughly one inch to the inside of the white cable tie.
Go ahead and cut the cable tie ends.
Remove the tape from the cylinder head intake ports and give them one final wipe down to ensure they are free of foreign material.
Position the GT350 intake manifold onto the cylinder heads.
Position the manifold so that the front is tilted up.
Reconnect the two IMRC sensor connections.
These are the white connectors with locking tab.
Before fully seating the manifold, be sure and position the grey cable ties into the provisions on the GT350 manifold.
Now you can fully seat the GT350 manifold.
Connect the two IMRC solenoid connections.
These are the blue connectors.
Hand tighten the six manifold to cylinder head bolts.
Then, torque in two stages.
The first stage being one hundred and six inch pounds starting with the center bolt on the passenger side.
Then the center bolt on the driver side.
Followed by the rear bolt on the passenger side, then the rear bolt on the driver side.
Lastly will be the front bolt on the passenger side and then the front bolt on the driver side.
Then rotate each bolt an additional thirty-five degrees in the same torque sequence.
Reinstall and hand tighten the fuel rail retaining bolts.
Starting with the passenger side front bolt, torque to eighty-nine inch pounds.
Then the driver side front, passenger side rear, and lastly the driver side rear.
Rotate each bolt an additional ninety degrees in the same torque sequence.
Reconnect all of the fuel injector electrical connections.
Reinstall the foam fuel covers.
On the passenger side, reinstall the heater hose support, reposition the hose and torque the previously removed 10mm nuts to sixty-two inch pounds.
Take the factory vacuum tube and slide back the two hose clamps.
Remove the plastic fitting.
Install it into the provided vacuum tube on the side that has the longer hose.
Position the driver side heater hose support followed by the vacuum tube mounting tabs.
Reposition the heater hose and then torque the two 10mm retaining nuts to sixty-two inch pounds.
Pull the release pin from the hose clamp to secure the plastic fitting.
Rotate the fitting so that it aligns with the grommet in the booster.
Push the fitting into the grommet.
Position the other end of the vacuum tube over inlet port on the GT350 manifold and release the pin from the hose clamp.
Reinstall the strut tower brace if equipped and torque the nuts to forty-one pound feet.
Cut away the electrical tape on the throttle body electrical connection.
Then un-tape ninety degrees from the EVAP purge harness.
Remove the red lock with a small pick.
Release the pins one at a time and transfer them to the provided connector.
On the new connector remove the white lock.
Transfer the wires in the same orientation as they are in the old connector.
Reinstall the white lock.
Connect the EVAP jumper.
Carefully pry up on the ninety degree plastic retainer.
Remove it from the old connector and transfer it to the connector on the EVAP solenoid.
Use electrical tape and tape the wires over the retainer.
Position the GT350 throttle body into place and hand tighten the previously removed bolts.
Torque to eighty-nine inch pounds working in a cross pattern.
Follow that with an additional sixty degree rotation working in the same pattern.
Connect the throttle body electrical connection and slide the tab to the lock position.
Connect the EVAP line.
Grab the GT350 cold air intake and make two cuts in the rubber seal.
Position the cold air intake into the car and make sure the rubber seal you just cut is angled down.
Slide the inlet tube over the throttle body and secure the box with the previously removed retaining bolt.
Tighten the hose clamp that secures the inlet elbow to the throttle body.
Next, drill a small hole in the air box and attach the harness clip.
Detach the small harness clip on the fender and utilize the included zip tie to secure the harness.
Reconnect the mass air flow sensor connection.
Install the provided driver side PCV tube.
Reinstall the previously removed passenger side PCV connection or oil separator.
Install the provided foam seal with the larger, firmer piece of foam on the filter side.
Have some rags ready and remove the vacuum cap from the fuel rail.
Reconnect the fuel supply line.
Reconnect the Fuel Pump Driver Module and reposition the rear seat cushion.
Reconnect the battery cables and reposition the battery cover.
The intake manifold cover is not reused.
Take this time to visually inspect your work and make sure everything is nice and tidy.
Grab your laptop, ProCal tool, USB cable and calibration sheet.
Follow the simple instructions on the sheet to create a Ford Performance account and have access to download the ProCal software.
Once that is finished, plug in the tool to the OBD two port located just the right of the driver side kick panel.
Plug the cable into the ProCal and the laptop.
Open the ProCal software and allow it to read the VIN.
Enter the calibration code and download the file.
Program the vehicle.
Allow the programming to finish and then unplug the ProCal from the OBD two port.
Everything is now installed and the PCM is flashed with the Ford Performance calibration. Let’s turn the rollers over one more time and see what she makes.
I didn’t have a doubt in my mind that this stage 3 power pack was going to let us down! The results simply speak for themselves guys. Our yellow five oh managed to make 432 horsepower at seventy-three hundred rpms and 380 pound feet of torque at forty-eight hundred rpms. Those numbers are good for thirty-seven peak horsepower and ten pound feet of torque.
Throughout the curve the car picks up power and torque, but it’s at the tail end of the run where the stage 3 power pack starts to prevail. The stock components fall on their face around sixty-six hundred rpm while the GT350 stuff is still climbing the ranks and manages to make peak power at seventy-three hundred rpms, and eventually taps out at seventy-five hundred.
Remember guys, the dyno graphs were for video representation and it is also important to understand that individual results will vary from car to car.
To put things into perspective, this stage 3 power pack incorporates a GT350 cold air intake, throttle body and manifold paired up with a Ford Performance calibration. Driveability is perfect! Fuel mileage is great and if a Ford dealership completes the install you retain your warranty… That’s a win, win… Win!
To see more great products from Ford Performance and stay up-to-date with us here at Late Model Restoration, subscribe to our YouTube channel! Be sure and pick up this Ford Performance stage three power pack from the real Mustang enthusiasts, LMR.com!
