Mustang GT BBK Long Tube Headers & X-Pipe Install (05-10 4.6L)

Mustang GT BBK Long Tube Headers & X-Pipe Install (05-10 4.6L)

Each BBK Full-length header system is CAD designed and manufactured with 1 5/8" CNC mandrel bent tubing for unrestrictive airflow. All BBK exhaust headers are pressure tested to ensure leak-free performance. The BBK full-length headers are available in either a chrome or ceramic coated finish and high-quality 304 stainless steel construction. They are made right here in the USA and will include gaskets, hardware, and o2 extensions.

When making the move to the BBK full-length headers, you’ll need to swap the mid-pipe for BBK’s off-road or catalytic x-pipe. Both x-pipes will bolt directly to your new BBK headers as well as the factory cat-back or an aftermarket cat-back that has factory-style connections. Its 2 ¾” mandrel-bent tubing will allow for a more free-flowing exhaust system… resulting in more power. Like the headers, each x-pipe is made in the USA and will include all needed hardware for installation.

Baseline Dyno 273HP/296TQ

• 87 Octane Fuel
• MSD Coil on Plugs
• BBK Varitune Catback
• 3.55 Ford Performance Gears
• TR3650 Tremec Transmission (5-Speed)
• 19" SVE wheels/tires
• Pull was made in 4th gear (1:1 Ratio)

After Dyno 295HP/319TQ +22HP/+23TQ

• BBK Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers
• BBK Off-Road X-Pipe
• SCT Strategy Tune via X4 Tuner
• 87 Octane Fuel
• MSD Coil on Plugs
• BBK Varitune Catback
• 3.55 Ford Performance Gears
• TR3650 Tremec Transmission (5 Speed)
• 19" SVE wheels/tires
• Pull was made in 4th gear (1:1 Ratio)

Required Tools:

Install

1. Remove the positive and negative battery cables with the eight millimeter socket.
2. Remove the battery hold-down bolt with the eight-millimeter socket, then remove the battery from the tray.
3. Loosen the three eight-millimeter bolts, then remove the battery tray from the car.
4. With the battery tray out of the car, take this time to disconnect the passenger side top O2 sensor.
5. Disconnect the vapor tube from the EVAP canister purge valve.
6. Slide the e-vac canister purge valve off of the strut tower and position it out of your way.
7. Loosen the dipstick bolt with an eight-millimeter socket, and then carefully remove the dipstick from the car.
8. Loosen the ten millimeter air box bolt.
9. Disconnect the mass airflow sensor and vacuum light on the intake elbow.
10. Loosen the hose clamp holding the intake elbow to the throttle body, and then remove the air intake assembly from the car.
11. Loosen all the upper header bolts on the driver and passenger side.
12. Keep in mind some nuts will come off with the stud still attached.
13. Remove the top motor mount nuts with the 15 millimeter socket.
14. With a small ratchet wrench and a 13-millimeter socket, loosen the top steering shaft bolt.
15. Moving underneath the car, remove the four control arm support brace nuts with a 13-millimeter socket and then remove the brakes from the car.
16. Disconnect the rear O2 sensors.
17. Spray quality penetrative oil on the factory mid-pipe to manifold nuts, then loosen the nuts with a few extensions and the 13-millimeter socket.
18. Loosen the mid-pipe to tailpipe exhaust leads with a 15-millimeter socket.
19. Pry the small tab up with a flat head screwdriver and slide the sleeve back.
20. Use a rubber mallet, if needed, to separate the mid-pipe and tailpipes.
21. Now remove the factory mid-pipe from the car.
22. Remove the three starter bolts with a 10-millimeter socket.
23. A few extensions and a swivel socket will come in handy.
24. Carefully remove the starter from the bell housing.
25. Remove the solenoid cover and loosen the two nuts with a 13 millimeter and 10-millimeter socket.
26. Now, you can remove the starter from the car.
27. Remove the lower steering shaft bolt with a 13-millimeter socket and then mark the shaft's orientation.
28. Remove the steering shaft from the car.
29. Raise the engine until it clears the motor mount stud by jacking up on the front of the oil pan near the crank pulley.
30. With a 13-millimeter socket and breaker bar, loosen the four driver-side motor mount bolts.
31. Do the same for the passenger side, except the front bolt will have a 13-millimeter nut and a 15 millimeter bolt holding down a ground wire.
32. Remove both motor mounts from the car.
33. Disconnect the driver's side front O2 sensor.
34. Loosen the four lower exhaust manifold nuts with a 13-millimeter socket.
35. Remove the manifold from the car.
36. Don't forget to remove the factory metal gaskets, but be careful since these can be sharp.
37. Do the same for the passenger side.
38. Connect the two included front O2 sensor extensions.
39. On the driver's side, remove it with a five-millimeter socket if the lower cylinder number seven stud stayed attached.
40. This stud has to be removed because it will come in contact with one of the header primaries, causing the header not to fit.
41. Install the included gaskets, and position the driver side header onto any studs that remain in the cylinder head.
42. Loosely tighten the factory nuts and then install the included hardware into any open holes in the cylinder head.
43. Moving to the passenger side, make sure the top stud on cylinder number three is removed.
44. One of the included bolts will need to be modified later.
45. Position the header over any remaining factors studs and loosely tighten the nuts.
46. Install the included hardware into any remaining holes in the cylinder head.
47. Torque the bolt, so you get access to 18 and a half foot-pounds on both the driver and passenger sides.
48. Re-install your motor mounts and then lower the engine.
49. Re-install your steering shaft and starter.
50. Grab your driver-side exhaust manifold and then remove the front O2 sensor with the 7/8 open-end wrench or O2 socket.
51. Do the same for the other three O2 sensors on the factory mid-pipe.
52. Position the x-pipe into place and install the previously removed O2 sensors.
53. Thread the included studs into the long tube header collector, and then tighten the nuts with a 21-millimeter socket.
54. Reposition your tailpipes with the x-pipe, and tighten the exhaust sleeves.
55. File down the small tabs on the front O2 sensors and connect them to the extensions.
56. Connect the rear O2 extensions, and then zip ties all of your connections and wires away from the exhaust.
57. Moving to the top of the car, install any factory nuts or included bolts and torque to 18 and 1/2 foot-pounds on the driver and passenger side.
58. On the passenger side header, you'll need to mark the threads on one of the included bolts.
59. You will then cut at the mark, file down any rough areas, and torque to spec.
60. Reinstall all of your components that you removed in the engine bay, including the positive and negative battery cables. Give everything a good once over, and you're all done.
61. Counsult with the tuner of your choice for a proper strategy tune for your application after installing these headers and mid-pipe. Failure to do this can result in engine failure!

Mustang Fitment: 2005 (05), 2006 (06), 2007 (07), 2008 (08), 2009 (09), 2010 (10) 4.6L GT