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Fox Body Mustang SVE Aluminum Electric Fan & Shroud Kit (79-93)
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Published on 2016-06-13
An SVE Mustang electric fan shroud replaces the bulky factory cooling assembly which sheds extra weight. Adding electric fans to your Mustang also increases overall power output by eliminating the parasitic loss your engine experienced by having to turn the factory fan.
This kit also includes a deluxe adjustable fan controller with pipe-threaded probe is easily installed in water jackets in the intake manifold or engine block. This allows fan activation to adjust between 150 and 240 degrees F.
The thermostat housing in this kit fits 1979-1995 Mustang 5.0L & 5.8L. Over the years the stock piece is prone to pitting & corrosion that prevents the hoses from sealing properly. This leads to leaks and overheating. 5.0 Resto offers this direct replacement to get you back up and running again.
Included in the kit is a stainless steel mustang coolant overflow tank is a universal design for use with electric fan and after-market racing radiator set ups on 1986-93 Mustangs. Their compact design allows them to fit in the same location as your stock tank or they can be relocated to a more convenient location.
Mustang Fitment: 1979 (79), 1980 (80), 1981 (81), 1982 (82), 1983 (83), 1984 (84), 1985 (85), 1986 (86), 1987 (87), 1988 (88), 1989 (89), 1990 (90), 1991 (91), 1992 (92), 1993 (93)
What’s up guys? Landan here with LMR.com! Today this video will cover my overview and install of SVE’s electric fan conversion kit fitting your 1979 to 1993 Fox Body Mustang!
For years SVE products have made a name for themselves manufacturing quality Mustang components all without emptying your wallet in the process. From lightning, performance, cosmetics and wheels, SVE continues to produce some of the best Mustang parts on the market.
Alright fellas, this SVE electric fan conversion kit is intended for two different applications. If you’ve already upgraded to our SVE radiator, then this kit is for you. On the flip side, this kit will also work if you’re running a stock radiator and wanting to ditch the factory clutch fan. By getting rid of the belt driven fan you will free horsepower since you’re reducing parasitic drag from the drive belt.
This SVE kit will include an aluminum shroud with two, twelve inch fans, controller, thermostat housing with 3/8” port for the temperature probe, housing gasket, aluminum overflow tank and our exclusive housing hardware made by ARP.
The twelve inch fans flow 933CFM or cubic feet per minute, which totals 1833 combined. The shroud itself is nineteen inches high, twenty-four inches long and three and three quarters deep from the back of the fan to the far edge of the shroud. This fan setup is perfect for stock cars or cars that are rocking a few bolt ons.
When converting to an electric fan setup you obviously need a controller. We include a high quality Derale controller when can be adjusted from 150 to 240 degrees. It is designed for single or dual fan setups, features an A/C override circuit, and has a three eights NPT water jacket thread-in sending unit. All needed hardware for installation is included in the box along with basic instructions.
The other components will consist of the aluminum overflow tank which can be mounted however you chose. New thermostat housing which features a 3/8” port for the controller’s temperature sending unit, housing gasket, and our exclusive housing hardware made by ARP.
Alright guys, follow along as I walk you through steps on installing this SVE electric fan kit into this Fox Mustang.
Begin installation by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
Remove the radiator cover if equipped.
Remove the two bolts securing the fan shroud to the radiator.
Loosen the four bolts on the water pump securing the clutch fan.
To help with reassembly of the water pump pulley, it may be in your best interest to release tension on the belt.
Push the fan toward the radiator carefully to free it from the water pump shaft.
Pull the shroud up and then position it out of the way.
Now you can remove the clutch fan from the car.
Before removing the shroud and overflow tank if equipped, disconnect the overflow tank line from the top of the radiator.
Since we will be installing a new thermostat housing, go ahead and drain roughly a gallon of coolant.
Loosen the hose clamp on the upper radiator hose and then remove the hose from the thermostat housing.
Remove the two thermostat housing to intake manifold bolts.
Next, remove the hose clamps securing the bypass hose to the water pump and thermostat housing and then remove the hose and housing.
Take this time to thoroughly clean the intake manifold with a gasket scraper and brake clean.
Apply thread sealer to the included temperature probe and then thread it into the 5.0resto thermostat housing.
Carefully tighten the probe with a three quarters wrench.
Use a new thermostat and lightly dab three small dots of the silicone on the housing.
This will help hold the thermostat in place as you re-position it back onto the intake manifold.
Make sure the bleed hold is toward the top of the housing and at the twelve o’ clock position.
Apply a few small dabs of silicone to the gasket and then center the gasket on the housing.
Position the thermostat housing back into place and use the included exclusive 5.0resto hardware to secure it to the manifold.
Torque the bolts to thirteen and a half pound feet.
Reposition the bypass hose and tighten the clamps.
Run the temperature probe’s wire along the plug wire and out of the way for now.
We will address this later.
Once the factory overflow tank, fan shroud and fan are out of the way, position the fan shroud into place.
Since an aftermarket radiator is already in the car, we chose to use a few speed clips and bolts that were laying around.
Tighten down the hardware.
Now, begin preparing the electric fan controller.
Plug the main harness into the controller.
We chose to mount the controller at the top corner of the fan shroud on the driver side.
Plug in the relay and then use the included screws to secure it to the shroud.
For added safety we added a 30 amp inline fuse to free floating red power wire included in the kit.
If you go this route as well, simply use a butt connector to join the single three foot wire and then a ring terminal on the other side of the fuse wire which will go to the starter solenoid.
Loosen the nut on the battery side of the solenoid and slide the ring terminal over the stud.
Retighten the nut.
Use another included ring terminal for the black wire on the harness.
Ground this to the headlight ground by the battery.
Use some convoluted tubing to the hide wires.
Plug in the temperature probe.
Secure the fan harness to the blade covers.
Now cut the pre-installed connectors.
Splice the wires and twist them together.
Make sure blue is with blue and black is with black.
Use a butt connector to splice the color coded wires.
Red wire from controller goes with black fan wires.
Red wire from solenoid goes with blue fan wires.
Use included quick crimp to splice the green wire from the controller to the yellow a/c wire.
Quick crimp yellow wire from controller to 12v ignition source on the main harness leading to the firewall.
Tidy up all of the wiring and then test for operation.
Drive the car around the block and get it to operating temperature.
Get out and double check the fans.
To change the temperature turn-on setting, simply remove the rubber plug on the controller and use a flat head screwdriver to make your adjustment.
You’re all finished.
As far as installation goes fellas, I would honestly allow yourself about two to three hours. That could be over-shooting this a little bit, but it is in your best interest to work as slow and precise as you can.
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