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1994-2004 Mustang Front Control Arm Kit - Install & Review
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Published on 2018-05-23
Direct Replacement Lower Control Arms.
These 1994-2004 Mustang direct replacement lower control arms are the perfect way to restore your SN-95 or New Edge suspension. Factory control arms can become damaged, ball joints can wear out, and bushings can start to deteriorate, leaving you with a rough ride and front end noises. This front lower control arm kit features both the left hand and right-hand control arms, rubber bushings and ball joints pre-installed for a bolt on replacement. These controls arms are made from stamped steel just like OE arms. Pick up a set today to get your 1994-2004 Mustang riding smoothly again!
- These are sold as a kit or individually if you are needed to replace just one side. Each control arm will service an 03-04 Cobra control arm except these will not have the nylon bushings or low friction ball joints.
- Stamped Steel Design
- 100% Bolt On
- Direct Replacement For Factory Arms
- Bushings & Ball Joints Pre-Installed
- Includes Both LH & RH
Application: 1994-2004 Mustang
These front lower control arms are going to appeal to the SN95 and New Edge enthusiast out there wanting to restore a vital front end component.
Each control arm is stamped from high-quality steel and then finished in a protective coating to withstand the elements.
New rubber bushings and ball joints are pre-installed which means you don’t have to hassle with replacing them individually.
Of course you’ll find that each arm has the correct provision for the sway bar end-link, spring, and a new ball joint nut is also included.
It’s important to note that this ball joint nut must be torqued to the proper torque spec of 129 lb/ft.
Now this kit will include a driver and passenger side control arm so that you can service both sides of the vehicle.
It is designed to be a direct, standard issue replacement for all 1994 to 2004 Mustangs.
For those of you wondering whether or not these will replace 03-04 Cobra control arms, they will.
You just won’t get the nylon bushings or low friction ball joints that came factory in the 2003 and 2004 Cobra control arms.
To begin the install, support the front of the car with jack stands or the entire vehicle with a lift.
Remove the front wheels.
Turn the wheel to allow easier access of the castle nut on the ball joint.
Remove the cotter pin with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Loosen, but do not fully remove the castle nut with a 24mm box end wrench.
Back the castle nut off until the top of the nut is even with the top of the ball joint.
Strike the back of the control arm with a large hammer to separate the ball joint from the control arm.
Spray penetrating oil on the control arm nuts.
Loosen each control arm nut with a 24mm socket and break-over bar.
Use a 21mm box end wrench on the bolt head and the 24mm socket with a socket wrench to completely remove the nut.
Do the same for the rearward hardware except you will want to use another socket and the break-over to hold the bolt.
This is because of the k-member design.
If you own a 96 to 04 mod motor car, you will need to bring the steering rack forward.
Locate the rearward 15mm bolt head and the frontward 18mm nut.
Remove both nuts and washers.
Use a pry bar on the passenger side of the rack.
If needed, you may have to remove the bolt on the steering shaft to steering rack to allow for proper clearance.
Place a pair of vice-grips on the sway-bar end link flat.
Loosen and remove the lower retaining nut with a 15mm deep socket.
Go ahead and remove the bushing.
Remove the vice-grips.
Support the inward part of the control arm with a jack.
Jack up on the control arm until pressure is relieved and each bolt slides out.
Carefully lower the jack until the spring tension is relieved.
Remove the spring from the car.
Now you can fully remove the castle nut from the ball joint.
If you would like, take this time to wipe down the area.
Before you install the new control arm, ensure that the protective cap is removed from the ball joint.
Position the new ball joint into the spindle and tighten the 24mm nut until you close the gap between the boot and spindle.
If you have trouble positioning the control arm into the k-member, utilize a hammer to widen the opening.
Ensure that the lower isolator is overhanging on the end of the pigtail.
Also, make sure you orientate the end of the pigtail correctly in the spring cup.
Install the spring into place.
Use the vice-grips on the other end-link.
Loosen and remove the lower 15mm nut and bushing.
This will allow the sway bar to fully pivot.
We’ll retighten these at the very end.
Carefully jack up on the inward portion of the control arm.
Align the bolt holes in the k-member with the bushings.
This is done with a large screwdriver.
Reinstall the bolts in the same orientation as the factory.
Remove the jack from underneath the control arm.
Reinstall the nuts.
Utilize the same combination of tools that you used to loosen the hardware to tighten it.
Torque the nuts to 148 lb-ft.
At this time you can repeat these steps for the other side.
With the sway bar at full pivot, reinstall them into each hole on both control arms.
Reinstall the lower bushing and 15mm nut.
Hold the flat with the vice-grips and then fully tighten the nut.
Do the same for the other end link hardware.
Fully tighten the supplied nyloc ball joint nut with a 24mm box end wrench.
Reinstall the wheels and then get the car on the ground.
Go ahead and double check your work, and then you’re all finished.
Alright guys, wrapping everything up here. These control arms install with relative ease; that is of course if you’ve dealt with suspension related components before.
Of course, if you aren’t comfortable with doing the install yourself, have a trustworthy local shop put these control arms on for you.
It is important that the ball joint retaining nut be completely tightened. Failure to fully tighten this, will cause it to back off of the ball joint.
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