About the Video
Mustang Odometer Gear Repair/Fix Kit Install - 94-98 - Lifetime Warranty!
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Published on 2013-09-09
Product: 1994-98 Mustang Odometer Gear Repair Kit
Fits: Mustang V6 GT Cobra
Year Models: 1994 (94) 1995 (95) 1996 (96) 1997 (97) 1998 (98)
LRS Part #: LRS-17255OG
The 1994-1998 SN95 Mustang is notorious for having problems with broken odometers. The LatemodelRestoration.com Mustang odometer gear kit is a simple and easy way to fix your broken Mustang odometer. Over time the original Ford Mustang odometer gears have a tendency to wear out causing insufficient engagement which causes the odometer to stop registering mileage. A Mustang odometer that has stopped working could really hurt the resale value of your Mustang! This kit is designed to replace those worn out odometer gears and get your Mustang odometer functioning the way it should. Follow along on the video as Jmac walks you through the simple install that should take you less than 30 mins.
Jmac: If you own a '94 to '98 Mustang and your odometer's quit working, more than likely, it's this set of gears right here. Luckily, we've got you covered with a brand new odometer gear repair kit t that's made right here in the USA and features a lifetime warranty. Now we're going to show you how to put this in on this '97 Mustang GT.
First off, you want to grab you a nut driver with a T20 Torx Bit and remove the two screws at the top of your instrument cluster bezel. Then, you want to grab you a small flat-blade screwdriver, pull out on your headlight knob, and in the little recess or the cut out spot, you'll see a little metal tab. You'll want to engage that screwdriver just behind that metal tab and apply light pressure to it while pulling out on the knob, and the knob will pull off of the headlight switch.
Now you can go ahead and pop off your bezel. Just pull out on it and it will come away from the dash. And then you have access to the four screws that hold on the instrument cluster to the dash, and those also take a T20 Torx Bit. Be careful not to drop these screws into the dash, because then you may have to go on a little hunting expedition to find them. Sometimes a little pocket magnet will help to fish them out of the hole.
Then, you can grab hold of your instrument cluster and slide it out of the dash. And you've got an electrical connector on each side, has one single-release tab at the top. You can pull that and then rotate it around, and you can unplug the other side single-release tab at the top. And now, we can go over to the bench, and I'll show you how to put that new odometer gear set into your instrument cluster.
Now that you've got your instrument cluster out and on a workbench, you're going to want to grab you either a T15 Torx Bit or a 5 and 1/2 millimeter socket to remove these small screws all the way around your instrument cluster's lens. Then you can go ahead and pop all these out. Then you can pick up on the cluster lens and just set it out of the way.
Now you've got one more T15 or 5 and 1/2 millimeter screw right down here at the bottom below the speedometer. Get it out of the way. Then you're going to want to grab you a small flat-blade screwdriver and pry up on your oil pressure and charge gauge. And then come over to the other side for your fuel level and engine temp. Just pry up slightly.
And then you can grab hold of your speedometer and tachometer and lift straight up. Basically, what you're doing is disengaging those pins out of the back of the instrument cluster housing. Now you can flip your speedometer, tachometer assembly over and actually twist, and sometimes you may have to grab a flat blade screwdriver to help you out. Twist the little motor there out. And then there's your worm gear, which this worm gear is broken.
And then on your drive gear, or your driven gear here, the shaft on it is broken. So that's why this odometer wasn't working. You can take your flat-blade screwdriver and pry out the old gear and then pry out the remnants. And typically, there's a little grease in there, so that'll help it stick to your screwdriver. And if not, you can just dump over the assembly to get the remnants out.
Now on this, we're going to take a needle-nose pair of pliers and pry off-- well, that just kind of broke apart. Yours will probably do about the same, maybe even worse. And kind of wipe off some of that junk.
All right, now you take your new worm gear and engage it onto the shaft of the motor. It's going to be a very tight fit, so don't be surprised if it takes a little bit of effort. Now I press it down almost all the way, and then I get to a point to where I can stick my thumbnail on the bottom side of that gear, and finish pressing down until I feel a little bit of tension against the base of that motor. That way, I've got a little bit of air gap, and that's a little bit too much. You basically just want the width of a fingernail air gap between that worm gear and the base of the motor.
Then you can grab your driven gear and just snap it into place. Make sure it is slid all the way over to the right. Then you can take your motor assembly and twist it back into place. And now, you can go ahead, slide everything back together into the housing, and then reinstall your instrument cluster into your car and enjoy your new working odometer and trip odometer. Now if you have any other questions about this, feel free to call in to our tech line or check out latemodelrestoration.com.