4 lug wheel options can be very limited for your 5.0L Stang and that is why we have been offering our complete Mustang 5 lug swap kit for years! Installing one of our Fox Body Mustang 5 lug conversion kits will open up a wide variety of aftermarket and factory wheels for your Stang. Not only will our complete five lug conversion open the door to more wheel options but it also supplies you with stronger rear axles (forged one piece design) and new brake components.
Our kit uses all new parts. This eliminates the need for you to hunt down used or junkyard parts. We took all the guess work out of the 4 to 5 lug conversion for your Fox Body. We put our years of Fox Body experience and knowledge to use and built these complete kits to help you take advantage of all the benefits of a 5 lug swap! Don't forget to check out our full selection of performance brake upgrades below. Get maximum performance out of your conversion by upgrading your brakes!
Watch the installation video above or check out the GIF's below as Jmac shows you how to install one of our complete kits on an 87-93 5.0L Mustang. These kits will work on 79-86 models and 87-93 2.3L 4 cylinder models if you run 87-93 5.0L spindles, struts and calipers. This popular kit has been used by Fox Body enthusiast and media for years. They have been featured on StangTV.com, 5.0 Mustang Magazine and many more!
To start out our 5 lug swap, support your car in the air and remove all the wheels.
We'll begin with the front by removing the brake caliber. Pop off the dust cap. Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer, nut spacer washer and outer wheel bearing.
hen slide your old rotor of the spindle. Go ahead and clean up all the old grease off the spindle as well as off the nut, spacer washer out of the grease cap and the retainer.
Wipe down there bearing races with brake cleaner. Pack the area in between the bearing races with grease and smear some grease on the bearing races. Pack your wheel bearings with your choice a wheel bearing grease. We decided to use Royal Purple!
Install you’re inside wheel bearing followed by the new grease seal. Smear some grease on the spindle. Slide the rotor into place.
Slide in your outer wheel bearing, followed by the spacer washer and nut. Tighten and loosen the retaining nut several times while rotating the rotor to fully see the bearings.
Once you feel the bearings are fully seated. Tighten the nut and loosen it by one flat. Rotate the nut retainer around until it you can clearly see the cotter pin hole. Install your cotter pin.
Pack some new grease inside the bearing dust cap. Install the cap into the brake rotor. Slide you caliber back into place and bolt it down. Repeat this for the other side.
Remove the 10 cover bolts. You will want to grab you an oil drain pan and remove the rear cover.
Slide your drums off. Rotate your axle around to where you can access the cross pin retaining bolt. Remove the cross pin retaining bolt. Remove the cross pin.
Slide one axle inward and remove the c clip. Do this for the other side. Remove both rear axles. Grab your new axles and the included 10 wheel studs. There are several different ways to install these wheel studs. The tried and true method is to hammer them into place. When using the stock wheel studs it doesn't take a whole lot of effort.
If you're using aftermarket style ARP long wheel studs, you will need to enlarge the holes on the axle flange and use a hydraulic press. Slide your new axles in the housing being careful not to damage the outer oil seal. Slide 1 axle all the way inward.
Engage the c clip and push it back out till it locks in place. Do this for the other axle. Reinstall your cross pin and the cross pin retaining bolt.
Thoroughly clean the face of the axle housing along with the differential cover. We always recommend using one of our reusable differential gaskets. Now we don't have any RTV silicone mess. Reinstall the rear differential cover.
Tightening down all 10 bolts. Remove the fill plug from the front axle housing. On the second bottle I normally put in about half the bottle.
Then add the bottle of Ford Racing friction modifier to the remaining half bottle of oil. Finish filling the axle. Apply some thread sealer to the fill plug and reinstall the fill plug.
Slide your new brake drums into place. Install your new wheels and lower the car onto the ground. Of course the perfect finishing touch to any 4 to 5 lug conversion is a new set a 5 lug wheels. We chose to go with a set of our chrome SVE Drag Wheels. Man do they look MEAN!