How To Install 1994-2004 Mustang Cobra Rear Brake Conversion

If you’ve already upgraded the front braking components to a Cobra-style setup on your 1994 to 2004 Mustang and are wanting even more braking performance, your next step is converting the rear brake components to Cobra-style.

We will be using the M2300M Cobra rear brake conversion kit from Ford Performance, gloss black SVE Cobra-style rear calipers, and braided stainless rear brake hoses. The M2300M kit includes caliper adapter brackets, rotors, brake dust shields with hardware and anti-moan braces. These components are specific to the 11.65-inch Cobra rear rotor. This kit is designed to work with 1994 to 2004 solid axle Mustang GTs and requires a Cobra-style caliper, which is why we’re using the SVE caliper. You can use a rear caliper from a 94-04 Cobra, 01 Bullitt, or an 03/04 Mach 1.

This install will take roughly 3-4 hours to complete.

Tools Needed

• Socket & Wrench Set
• Assortment of Power Tools
• Drain Pan
• Gasket Scraper
• New RTV
• Slide Hammer & Bearing Puller
• Caliper Compression Tool
• Torque Wrench
• Towels W/ Cleaning Materials
• Magnet

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Shop All The Parts You Need For This Install



• 1994-2004 Rear Brake Rotors
• Rear Brake Calipers
• Stainless Steel Rear Brake Hoses
• Axle Bearings & Seals
• Differential Covers & Fluid

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Removal & Installation Steps



1. To begin, safely support the vehicle with a lift or jack stand and remove the e-clip from the parking brake cable.



2. Remove the eyelet from the bracket and then pass the cable through the small opening in the caliper. Position the cable out of the way.



3. Loosen and remove the (2) bolts securing the caliper to the caliper bracket.



4. Remove the caliper from the rotor and hang it out of the way. You can now remove the brake pads.



5. Loosen and remove the (2) 15mm caliper bracket retaining bolts. Remove the bracket from the car. Remove the brake rotor.



6. Loosen and remove the (2) nuts securing the anti-moan brace to the axle tube and then remove the brace.



7. Use an E8 inverted Torx socket to remove the ABS sensor retaining screw. Remove the ABS sensor from the caliper adapter bracket and position it out of the way. Repeat these same steps for the other side.



8. Position a drain pan underneath the rear end. Loosen and remove the differential cover bolts. Gently pry the cover away from the rear end and set it aside. While the fluid is draining, scrape away the old RTV.



9. Rotate the differential to gain access to the cross pin bolt. Loosen and remove the bolt with a box end wrench.



10. Remove the cross pin from the differential.



11. Push one of the axles in and remove the c-clip. Do the same for the other axle and c-clip.



12. Now you can remove both axles from the rear end.



13. Loosen and remove the (3) screws securing the dust shield to the caliper adapter bracket. Set the dust shield aside.



14. Use a combination of a box end wrench and socket to remove the caliper adapter bracket hardware. Set the hardware aside.



15. If you’re replacing the axle bearings and seals, go ahead and do it at this time.



16. Assemble the slide hammer and bearing puller attachment. Remove the axle bearing and seal. Stuff a towel into the axle tube and thoroughly clean this area.




17. Remove the towel from the axle and ensure the inside area of the tube is free of foreign material. Go ahead and repeat these steps for the other side. Take this time to clean up the hardware that is going to be reused.


18. Using a bearing and seal driver, install the new axle bearing and ensure that it is fully seated within the housing.



19. Install the new seal and ensure it is flush with the housing. Do the same for the other side.



20. Locate the corresponding caliper adapter bracket for the side that you are working on. These are marked with an L and R indicating left and right.



21. Position the correct adapter in place and reinstall the previous hardware in the factory orientation. Torque this hardware to 45-50 lb-ft.




22. Align the holes in the brake dust shield with the caliper adapter bracket. Install the retaining bolts and torque these to 6-9 lb-ft. Repeat these steps for the other side.



23. Reinstall both axles back into the housing. Push in on either one of the axles so you can reinstall the c-clip.



24. Reinstall the c-clip and pull it out on the axle. Do the same for the other side.



25. Reinstall the cross pin into the differential. Reinstall the bolt and torque it to 15-30 lb-ft.




26. Clean the differential cover and apply RTV silicone to the mating surface. Make sure you position the bead on the inside of the bolt hole. Before installing the differential cover, ensure that the mating surface on the rear-end housing is clean.



27. Install the cover and hand tighten the hardware. If you’re reusing the stock cover, torque the hardware to 28-38 lb-ft in a criss-cross pattern. Fill the differential with the correct fluid and friction modifier. Apply Teflon tape or a high-temperature thread sealant with PTFE to the fill plug. Reinstall the plug and fully tighten it.





28. Reposition the ABS sensor into the caliper adapter bracket and reinstall the bolt. The torque spec for this bolt is 40-60 in-lbs.



29. Install the brake rotor and use a few washers and a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you install the rest of the components. Install the anti-moan brace provided in the M2300M kit, but don’t torque the retaining nuts just yet. Apply some blue thread locking compound to the caliper bracket retaining bolts.



30. If you’re using a take-off caliper, it’s important that the caliper piston is fully compressed before installation. This is done by using a piston compressing tool that has an adapter plate with drive pins. These drive pins align with the two notches in the caliper piston.



31. Assemble the tool and then rotate clockwise to compress the piston. Whenever the piston is fully compressed, ensure that the two notches are oriented in the 12 and 6 o clock positions in relation to the face of the caliper. If it isn’t, simply rotate the piston counter-clockwise until the notches are in the correct position. This is to ensure the locating tab on the brake pad is properly seated during reassembly.



32. Position the corresponding caliper and bracket for the side that you are working on over the rotor. Remember, the bleeder always faces up.



33. Slide the anti-moan brace towards the caliper bracket and loosely install the retaining bolts. Run these down by hand and torque the bolts to 70-95 lb-ft. Go ahead and torque the nuts for the anti-moan brace to 40-45 lb-ft.




34. While you can reuse the existing brake hoses for the Cobra-style caliper, we opted for braided stainless hoses to match the front.



35. Remove the plug from the port in the caliper. Install a crush washer over the banjo bolt and then orientate the hose correctly. Pass the banjo bolt through the distribution block and install another crush washer. Thread the banjo bolt into the caliper by hand and then tighten the bolt.



36. Locate the brake hose to the hard-line connection. Use the correct sized line wrench and loosen the tube nut. Remove the hardline away from the brake hose and cap the line.



37. Loosen and remove the bolt securing the brake hose bracket to the frame rail. Now you can fully remove the existing caliper and brake hose.



38. Position the corresponding brake hose for the side that you are working on into place. Reinstall and retighten the brake hose bracket retaining bolt.



39. Remove the cap from the brake line and thread the tube nut into the brake hose by hand. Fully tighten the fitting with the line wrench. Clean up any residual brake fluid.



40. Reinstall the parking brake cable through the opening in the caliper. Reinstall the e-clip and then reposition the eyelet into the bracket. Repeat these same steps for the other side.



41. At this time, you can go ahead and properly bleed the brakes. Start at the passenger rear caliper and then move to the driver’s side rear caliper.




42. Reinstall the wheels and torque the lug nuts to spec. Get the car on the ground and go for a test drive; after that, you’re good to go!




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This is a great conversion for solid axle Mustang GTs especially if you’ve already converted the front to a Cobra-style setup. The overall braking performance and stopping power is considerably better than the non-Cobra components. Be sure to check out our YouTube channel for more installation and removal videos when working on your New Edge Mustang.

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As always, make sure to keep it here with the Real Mustang Enthusiasts at LMR.com.

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