Oil System Install
The oil system to ANY engine is extremely crucial. From the pan, pump, and gasket, all of these components should always be considered top priority just like when selecting a set of heads or camshaft. Whether you’re freshening up a stock bottom end, or you are building a short block from the bottom up; I’m going to cover the needed oil system components to help finish your pushrod 302 or 351 based engine.
Oil Pans and Accessories
Up first is your oil pan. We carry a few different options from your stock style replacement, to a Canton drag race or road race specific oil pan. Pair that up with a high quality replacement oil pump which will be available for the 302 and any of you guys swapping to a 351. Keep the oil in the pan with a one piece gasket from Ford Racing. Those will be available for a 302 or 351 based application. A key contributor to a sealed oil pan, are pan rails. 5.0Resto offers pan rails for both 302 and 351 engines, and will help evenly secure your pan to the bottom of the engine block.
Oil Pumps and Accessories
A few other items you’ll definitely need, will be oil pump bolts, oil pan bolts and a pump driveshaft. All of these will items will be made by ARP and will feature a high quality, black oxide steel construction. The remaining items needed will be a pick-up tube or also referred to as an oil pump screen, dip stick, and for you 84-95 owners, a low oil level sensor and gasket.
- 3/8" Drive Torque Wrench
- Socket Set
- Black RTV Silicone
- Engine Oil
- Before you begin, it is in your best interest to have a clean working area and to clean all of your parts prior to install.
- Also, it is recommended that you assemble the front of your engine before installing these oil system components.
- With the engine upside down on your stand, first position one of the oil pump gaskets onto the block.
- Slide the ARP oil pump driveshaft into the hole directly behind the front main bearing cap.
- Insure that the end with the star washer is facing down, toward the block.
- This will keep the oil pump drive shaft from coming out of the engine when removing a distributor.
- Position the oil pump over the end of the oil pump drive shaft and align the pump with the bolt holes.
- Loosely thread two of the four oil pump bolts and washers into the engine block.
- Torque to 35 ft/lbs.
- Hand tighten the four ARP oil pan studs with the larger thread diameter into the bolt holes closest to the front and rear main seals.
- Hand tighten the remaining oil pan studs into the engine block.
- Position the oil pump pick tube or screen onto the stud located on the center thrust bearing cap and the oil pump.
- Be sure and position the other gasket in between the pick-up tube and oil pump.
- Hand tighten the bolts and washers on the oil pump and the nut for the stud.
- Torque the bolts to 20 ft/lbs and the nut to 35 ft/lbs.
- Apply a small amount of RTV to the timing cover and engine block mating points, as well as the two corners at the timing cover and the two corners at the rear main cap.
- Position the oil pan gasket over the studs.
- Reapply a small amount of RTV to the two corners at the timing cover and the two corners at the rear main cap.
- Position the oil pan and pan rails over the studs and hand tighten the nuts.
- Remember, four nuts will have a larger thread diameter and will secure the pan at the locations closest to the front and rear main seals.
- Starting at the center most studs, torque the nuts to 10 ft/lbs.
- If you’d like, you can go back over the nuts in the same sequence to insure they are all at 10 ft/lbs.
- If your car is equipped with a low oil level sensor connection, lightly oil the gasket and carefully tighten the new sensor.
- Hand tighten your new oil filter, double and triple check everything and that completes the installation of the oil system components.