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How To Remove A Mustang T-5 Transmission

Posted 11/13/2018 by Jay Walling

Removing the T5 transmission from your Fox Body or SN95 Mustang is needed whenever you need to access vital drivetrain and engine components. This article covers each step.

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Removal of your Mustang’s transmission is a crucial procedure when diagnosing or replacing drivetrain components. Some of these will include the clutch/flywheel assembly, pilot bearing, and rear main seal.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal on your car.
  2. Moving to the interior of the vehicle, remove the upper shift boot and bezel.
  3. Loosen and remove the shifter arm assembly.
  4. Loosen and remove the 4 bolts for the lower shift boot and seal assembly.
  5. Loosen and remove the 4 shifter to transmission bolts, use a pry bar to release any seal that is holding this one to the transmission body.
  6. If your Mustang is equipped with the factory plastic self-adjusting quadrant, pull up on the clutch pedal and use a long extension to release the factory tension on the self-adjuster. If your Mustang already has an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster, rotate the firewall adjuster in the correct orientation to release the clutch cable pre-load.
  7. Now you can support the vehicle by using a set of jacks and jack stands or an automotive lift.
  8. Disconnect the O2 vehicle O2 harness from the O2 sensors.
  9. Using a quality penetrating lube, spray down all of the mid-pipe to header and mid-pipe to cat-back hardware.
  10. Remove the mid-pipe assembly and set this aside.
  11. Loosen and remove the 2-9/16” nuts that hold the transmission mount to the transmission cross member.
  12. Loosen and remove the 2 cross member to body nuts and bolts. Hold the bolt head with a 13 mm open end wrench, and then use an impact or ratchet to remove the nut with a 15 mm socket. Do this one both sides and leave the bolts in place.
  13. Place a reference mark on the rear of the driveshaft and the pinion flange for orientation when reassembling the vehicle upon reassembly.
  14. Loosen and remover the 4 retaining bolts that hold the driveshaft to the pinion flange with a 12 point 12 mm socket or wrench. Use a small pry bar to release the drive shaft and remove this from the car. NOTE- some fluid may leak from the tail-shaft of the transmission at this time, so a drain pan would be best on the tail-shaft area of the transmission. If you have access to a tail-shaft plug use this at this time or you can wrap a few rags around this area to help minimize leaks on your shop floor.
  15. Loosen and remove the 4 transmission to bellhousing bolts.
  16. Remove the reverse light switch located on the side of the transmission.
  17. Disconnect the electrical connection on the vehicle speed sensor on the tail-shaft of the transmission if equipped. Dislodge the speedometer cable clip and remove the cable from the speed sensor. Tie this up out of the way to give you room when removing the transmission body.
  18. Support the transmission body via a jack and remove the cross member to body bolts. Remove the cross member and set aside.
  19. The transmission will now slide out from the bellhousing. These can be a little heavy at time, so an added set of hands can help when taking this out.
  20. Next, remove the clutch fork cover from the bellhousing.
  21. Pass the clutch cable eyelet through the clutch fork assembly. Use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the clutch.
  22. cable retaining clip from the bellhousing and then slide the cable out.
  23. Remove the 2 9/16” starter retaining bolts, pull the starter out of the opening and pull it down and set this aside.
  24. Remove the 6 bellhousing to engine block bolts, once removed the bellhousing and clutch fork assembly can now be removed from the vehicle.
  25. Loosen and remove all of the clutch pressure plate retaining bolts. These are normally 1/2” and there should be 6 in total. Pry the pressure plate and the clutch disc from the flywheel; be careful because these will normally come out together.
  26. Loosen the 6 flywheel to crankshaft retaining bolts, leave one in the 12 o’clock position threaded in a few turns. This will allow the flywheel to be supported upon removal.
  27. Remove the bellhousing spacer plate from the alignment dowels on the engine block.

Congratulations! You have now successfully removed the transmission from your Mustang. To see more how-to articles covering industry leading products, check out LMR.com for all things 79- present Mustang and Lightning.



About the Video

How To Remove Mustang T5 Transmission (1982-2004 5.0L, 3.8L, 2.3L)

Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related!

Published on 2018-08-01
Removing the T5 transmission from your Fox Body or SN95 Mustang is needed whenever you need to access vital drivetrain and engine components. These components include the clutch and pressure plate, clutch fork, throw out bearing, fly wheel, rear main seal, and other various parts.

This video covers the core steps in the removal process. The work is performed on a 1991 Fox Body race car. Depending on the year of your Mustang, the removal of the few interior pieces will slightly differ.
Transcript
What’s up everybody? Landan with lmr.com! In this video I’m going to be providing the general steps on how to remove a T5 transmission from your 1982-1995 Mustang or 1994 to 2004 Mustang with the V6.

Removing the T5 in your Mustang is needed to replace and or inspect crucial drivetrain and engine components.

Some of these components include the clutch and pressure plate assembly, flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch fork, throw out bearing, and even the rear main seal.

The removal steps will be shown on our 1991 Fox Body race car so a few steps regarding the interior will slightly differ.

To begin the install, disconnect the negative battery cable.

From inside of the car, remove the shift knob.

Now, remove the upper shift boot and bezel.

Loosen and remove the shifter handle to shifter hardware.

Set the handle aside.

Loosen and remove the four bolts securing the lower boot to the floor.

Pass the lower boot over the shifter.

Loosen and remove the four shifter to transmission retaining bolts.

Use a pry bar or flat head to dislodge the shifter from the transmission.

The shifter is now free to come out.

If you still have the factory clutch quadrant installed, pull up to release the self-adjuster and support the pedal with some sort of prop.

If you have an aftermarket clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster, rotate the firewall adjuster in the correct orientation to release any clutch cable pre-load.

Now you can support the car via a lift or jack stands.

Disconnect the o2 sensor electrical connections.

Spray a penetrating oil onto the exhaust hardware.

All you need to remove is the mid-pipe.

This is done by removing the mid-pipe to manifold retaining hardware.

Then you can loosen and remove the hardware securing the mid-pipe to the catback.

Loosen and remove the two nine-sixteenths nuts securing the transmission mount to the crossmember.

To remove the crossmember to body nuts, hold the bolt head with a 13mm box end wrench and loosen the nut with a 15mm socket.

Do this for both sides and leave the bolts in place.

Place a reference mark on the rear of the driveshaft and pinion flange for orientation.

Loosen and remove the four retaining bolts with a twelve point, 12mm socket.

An impact will be your best friend here.

Place a drain pan under the tailshaft.

Remove the driveshaft from the transmission and then plug the tailshaft.

Cover the yoke to protect it from foreign material.

Loosen and remove the four transmission to bellhousing bolts.

Remove the reverse light switch from the side of the transmission.

This is dislodged with a flat head.

Disconnect the electrical connection from the speed sensor if equipped.

Dislodge the speedometer cable clip and remove the cable from the sensor.

Support the transmission with a jack.

Remove the crossmember bolts.

Set the crossmember aside.

Remove the clutch fork dust cover retaining bolt followed by the dust cover.

Pass the eyelet through the larger opening in the clutch fork.

Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the clutch cable to bellhousing retaining clip.

The transmission can now be removed from the car.

Remove the two nine-sixteenths starter to bellhousing retaining bolts.

Pull the starter out of the opening in the bellhousing and set it aside.

Loosen and remove the six five-eighths bellhousing to engine block retaining bolts.

A long extension and wobble socket will be the go-to combination for these bolts.

The bellhousing and clutch fork assembly can now be removed from the car.

Break loose all of the pressure plate retaining bolts.

These should be half inch in size and there are six of them.

Evenly loosen all of the bolts.

Pry the bottom of the pressure plate assembly away from the flywheel.

When doing this, ensure that you pay attention.

The clutch disc and pressure plate will be removed together.

Evenly loosen the six flywheel to crankshaft retaining bolts.

Leave the top bolt installed a few turns until the very end.

This will allow the flywheel to be supported so you can remove it with ease.

Last but not least, remove the spacer plate from the dowels on the engine block.

You have successfully removed your T5 transmission.

Be sure and reference our clutch install video for the proper steps to get all of these components reinstalled.

Alright guys, a few things you’ll want to keep in mind when removing your T5.

Most of you are probably going to be doing this on jack stands so with that being said, be sure and get the car as high and as safe as you can.

Have on hand a decent set of tools, a transmission floor jack will make life a lot easier, and you may need an extra set of hands from a friend when doing this.
To see more how-to and review videos covering industry leading products, be sure and subscribe to our YouTube channel, like this video, and turn on notifications. While you’re at it, checkout our other videos and shop LMR.com for all things 1979 to present Mustang and SVT Lightning!