How To Install SVE Fox Body Coyote Swap Sway Bar Relocation Kit | 79-93

Installation

1. To get started, safely support the car via a lift or get it as high as you can if you’re working off of jack stands.


2. Depending on the current status of your swap, remove the front wheels.


3. At this time remove the factory Fox sway bar and end links.


4. The entire bracket needs to be removed from the frame rail. Go ahead and remove the factory Fox sway bar brackets by drilling out the spot welds with an appropriate spot weld drill bit.


5. When it is, ensure that the underside of the frame rail is completely flat. You may have to grind this smooth. For the sake of our build, this is an R&D car and the sway bar brackets were already removed before the install.


6. Use a rust preventative paint and cover any uncoated metal surfaces. Do the same for the other bracket.


7. Whenever the brackets are removed, you can begin the mockup of the sway bar. Separate the two sections of the provided sway bar mounts.


8. Thoroughly lubricate the inside of the bushing and any part of the bushing that will make contact with another surface with the correct grease.


9. Install the bushing in the correct orientation and slide the u-shaped bracket onto the bushing. Then position the other section of the mount into place.


10. Do this for the other side of the sway bar.


11. Here is where you will need help from a friend. Position the sway bar into place and verify that the mounts are positioned under the frame rail. If needed, you can use a floor or pole jack to help hold the bar in place. The objective here is to get the sway bar as far back as you can all while considering the ear of the sway bar in relation to the strut body, accessory drive components, and the oil filter.


12. When marking the frame rail with mount in position, I would mark as many locations as you can for multiple points of reference. This includes the bracket and the bolt holes.


13. To check for symmetry, measure the distance from the center of the large frontward hole in the frame rail to any mark that you made. Check this measurement with the other side and adjust accordingly.


14. Before drilling the two holes, verify that the center to center distance of these markings is 74mm or 2.91 inches and that the holes centered within the frame rail.


15. Center punch the marked areas and drill each hole with a 7/16” drill bit.


16. With the holes drilled, take a zip-tie, wire, or something equivalent, and tape it to the top of the stud plate.


17. Feed one of the stud plates through the large opening near the front of the frame rail.


18. Work the stud plate towards the drilled holes and feed the studs through the openings.


19. Thread on one of the provided nuts so you can use this as leverage to install one of the push-on retainers.


20. Go ahead and fully seat one of the retainers on the stud. Remove the nut and install another retainer. If desired, firmly pull the zip-tie or equivalent “fishing” tool away from the stud plate and discard.


21. With the help of a friend, position the sway bar mounts into place and install the provided locking nuts. The torque spec for these nuts is 35-40 lb-ft.


22. Now that the sway bar is secured to the frame rail, we need to install the end links. Hold the sway bar so that the ear of the bar is parallel with the ground and ride height.


23. Measure the distance from the top of the control arm where the hole for the end link is to the underside of the sway bar ear. You’ll need to take into account the height of the two bushings that are situated on top of the control arm and underneath the ear of the sway bar.


24. The way I would recommend that you do this is to purchase a new set of sway bar end links for a 94-04 Mustang so you’ll get all new pieces associated with the end link assembly. The only item that you would have to potentially source is a shorter bolt that works with the provided lock nut in the end link kit.


25. You would also need to shorten the provided sleeve to accommodate the change in height. All of the bushings, washers, and lock nut can be used without modification.


26. Once all of this is assembled, reinstall the front wheels and torque the lug nuts to spec. A drive-on lift would be ideal for these next few steps.


27. Be sure and verify that the ear of the sway bar doesn't make contact with the strut body whenever the wheel is turned lock to lock. To do this, the weight of the car needs to be on all four of the wheels or the suspension needs to be loaded.


28. Check over your work and you're all done.

If you are considering this kit and you're at the point in your build where you're considering painting the engine bay, now is the time. This is because you will have to remove the factory sway bar brackets to install this kit. Get them out of the way and get the car to the painter so that way you can paint your frame rails. If you have already painted your car and are considering this kit, a few touch-ups will most likely need to be made, but a quality paint and body professional should have no issues in making this happen.