How To Swap Mustang AOD to T5 Transmission: Stage 3

In stage 3 of our Mustang T5 conversion, we tackle the task of removing the AOD transmission & installation of the manual transmission tunnel hump.

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In this stage of your Mustang T-5 conversion, you will most likely need some help from a few friends to help remove the AOD transmission.

While removing all of your parts, make sure to keep up with what went where. Labeling, taking pictures, anything else you may need to do can help save time and headaches during reassembly.

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About the Video

How To: Mustang AOD to T5 Transmission Swap - Part 3 (1984-1993)

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Published on 2017-01-25
One of the more popular swaps known to the Fox platform is swapping the boring AOD automatic transmission for that of a T5. Now granted, we all prefer our own setups, and that's totally fine. But, let's be honest? Bangin' gears in a Fox Mustang is about as American as you can get!

Part three will cover removal of the atrocious AOD transmission as well as the needed tunnel hump modification. We do sell this kit along with a new lower shift boot, attaching hardware and rivets for 1979-1993 Fox Mustangs. This video series will cover 1984 to 1993 5.0L Fox Body Mustangs equipped with an AOD transmission.
What's up everybody? Landan with Late Model Restoration! Welcome to part three covering our AOD to T5 transmission swap series. This segment involves AOD removal and the tunnel hump modification. I've got a lot to cover, so let's get to it!

First things first, if you haven't watched part one or part two, go ahead and check those out! So far I have removed the majority of the interior, remove the automatic pedal assembly and installed the manual pedal assembly. And to think, I've only scratched the surface.

Part three will cover removal of the atrocious AOD transmission as well as the needed tunnel hump modification. We do sell this kit along with a new lower shift boot, attaching hardware and rivets.

When removing the AOD, I would recommend the assistance from a friend or two. A dedicated jack will help with removal as well. The AOD is heavy and cumbersome so be mindful of that when go about removing yours.

Picking up from Stage two, it's time to support the car via a lift or jack stands.

Once the car is in the air, go ahead and disconnect the o2 sensor connections if equipped.

Remove the four mid-pipe to manifold retaining nuts. There will be two per side.

Now, go ahead and remove the catback to mid-pipe retaining hardware.

Pry the mid-pipe free of the catback and then remove it from the car.

Mark the driveshaft and pinion flange with a paint pen.

These bolts looked like they've seen better days so I sprayed them with some penetrating oil and let dwell.

If yours are difficult to remove, use a combination of pry bar and breaker bar.

Be sure and use a twelve point 12mm socket for the four bolts.

Remove all four bolts and then remove the driveshaft from the car.

Plug the tailshaft on the AOD so fluid doesn't run out and make a mess.

Remove the two starter to bell housing retaining bolts and position the starter out of the way.

Now remove the bolts securing the converter access cover to the bell housing.

This is no longer needed.

Next, use a pry bar and appropriate socket to rotate the crankshaft so that the torque converter to flexplate hardware can be removed.

Keep leverage on the crank while you loosen the flexplate to converter nuts.

Continue rotating the crank to remove those four nuts.

Now remove the bolt securing the throttle valve cable bracket to the transmission.

Pry the end of the cable off of the ball stud on the throttle lever assembly.

Position the cable toward the front of the car and over the bellhousing.

Remove the shift control cable retaining nut from the shifter linkage and then remove the cable from the stud on the linkage.

Remove the speedometer cable retaining bolt and remove the cable from the transmission.

Position this out of your way.

Disconnect any electrical connections associated with the transmission.

Now, remove the four transmission to bellhousing bolts.

Leave the top two in place and get those whenever you’re ready to pull the transmission.

Place a drain pan or bucket underneath the transmission cooler lines.

Loosen and remove these with the correct line wrench.

Allow the fluid to drain into the pan or bucket.

Position the lines out of the way and then support the crossmember.

Use a combination of a box end wrench and ratchet to remove the hardware.

Support the transmission with an appropriate jack.

In our case, the fancy jack had some issues so we turned to some good ol’ home grown engineering.

Once the transmission is supported, remove the top two transmission to bellhousing bolts and give it a firm shake side to side to free it from the crankshaft and dowel on the engine block.

Begin lowering the transmission making sure the dipstick and any other cable is free and not in a bind.

Once the transmission is out of the car, remove the flexplate to crankshaft hardware and remove both the flexplate and spacer plate.
Position the previously used drain pan or bucket under the cooler lines on the radiator.

Loosen and remove the lines.

This car had this by passed and was utilizing a stand-a-lone transmission cooler.

I removed the rubber hose from the factory hard lines, plugged them and then maneuvered the factory lines through the k-member.

It is a tight squeeze, but they will slide through the opening between the engine block and k-member.

Remove the cable retaining bracket from the underside of the car.

Then remove the four retaining bolts securing the shifter to the floor pan.

Remove this from the car.

Align the transmission hump with the floor pan by using a screwdriver in the bottom left hole.

Trace the opening with a permanent marker.

Remove the tunnel hump, body clips and then use a body saw to cut the marked areas.

Once the cuts are made, file down the edges.

Drill an eighth inch pilot in the rear of the tunnel hump followed by a quarter inch bit.

If you purchased our kit, use one of the attaching rivets and secure it into place.

Do the same for the upper right hand corner on the tunnel hump.

I personally used a total of seven rivets.

Three down each side and then one centered into the rear of the tunnel hump.

That completes all of the steps for part three.

In my opinion fellas, this was the most involved portion of the entire swap. From here, the rest is pretty easy. Yes, the driveshaft can be reused if you’re wondering. Everything else though, well, it can go into a “for sale” pile.

For more information on the swap, click the link in the description. Next up is part four. To stay up-to-date with this swap, subscribe to our YouTube channel if you haven't already done so. Until next time guys, keep it right here with the real Fox Mustang enthusiasts,!