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How To: Install Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams and Intake Manifold

Posted 5/26/2015 by Landan Durham

Add MORE power, MORE torque, and that lopey muscle car sound with Ford Racing's Hot Rod Camshafts and Intake Manifold!

FOLLOW: mustang , 05 09 mustang , 10 14 mustang , ford racing , cam shaft , hot rod cams , intake manifold , valvetrain , air fuel

Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams & Intake Manifold

The Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams were designed with a few things in mind, to increase horsepower and torque across the entire power band and add some serious bumpity bump to your three valve Mustang! These camshafts are engineered for naturally aspirated and supercharged applications to cover a wide variety of engine setups. It is recommended that these cams be used with long tube headers to achieve significant power gains as well as a Ford Racing intake manifold and throttle body.

These Hot Rod Cams will increase lift from the stock 11mm/0.433” to 12mm/0.472. Intake and exhaust duration will be 221/240 degrees at 50 thousands lift with a lobe separation of 110 degrees. You can still use your factory valve springs, followers, and lash adjusters up to 6800rpms. You’ll need a timing chain wedge tool, valve spring compressor, and new cam phaser bolts prior to install and a custom tune IS required once you do get these cams installed. Lastly, Ford Racing does include thorough instructions with all needed torque sequences and specs.

Now that we have the Hot Rod Cams covered, let’s dive into the Ford Racing Intake Manifold. This intake manifold will offer a lightweight composite construction, high-flow runners and an open plenum design. It will fit under a stock hood and will allow gains across the entire power band! Ford Racing has tested this intake up to two bar pressure which makes it a perfect addition for any of you guys with forced induction! It will even feature built in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Deletes [also called Charge Motion Runner Control CMRC delete]. All needed hardware is included along with detailed installation instructions, and like the cams, a custom tune is required.


Baseline Dyno 281HP/309TQ

  • 93 Octane
  • Custom Tune
  • Steeda CAI
  • BBK 62mm Throttle Body
  • Ford Racing Shorty Headers
  • Bassani Off-Road X-Pipe
  • Ford Racing 'Stinger' Catback
  • 3.73 Gears
  • 5R55S Transmission (5 Speed Auto)
  • One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
  • 18" wheels/tires
  • Pull was made in 4th gear (1:1)


After Dyno 315HP/318TQ +34HP/+9TQ

  • Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams
  • Ford Racing Intake Manifold
  • 93 Octane
  • Custom Tune (Re-flash)
  • Steeda CAI
  • BBK 62mm Throttle Body
  • Ford Racing Shorty Headers
  • Bassani Off-Road X-Pipe
  • Ford Racing 'Stinger' Catback
  • 3.73 Gears
  • 5R55S Transmission (5 Speed Auto)
  • One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
  • 18" wheels/tires
  • Pull was made in 4th gear (1:1)


Required Tools

  • Timing Chain Wedge Tool
  • Valve Spring Compressor
  • Fuel Line Disconnect Set
  • 3/8" Torque Wrench
  • Torque Angle Gauge
  • Hi-Temp Black RTV Silicone
  • 1/4" Socket Wrench
  • 3/8" Socket Wrench
  • 1/2" Socket Wrench
  • 1/2" Breaker Bar
  • Socket Set
  • Extensions


Install

  1. To begin installation, disconnect the Fuel Pump Driver Module. (This is located in the trunk, near the spare tire.)
  2. Start the car and allow it to idle until it stalls.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the strut tower brace if equipped.
  4. Slide the red locking tab back and disconnect the Mass Air Flow sensor connection.
  5. Disconnect the passenger side PCV from the intake elbow.
  6. Loosen the hose clamps from the coupler between the throttle body and intake elbow.
  7. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the air box to the fender apron, and remove the intake from the car.
  8. Disconnect any electrical connections on the driver side.
  9. Back on the passenger side, remove the PCV connection from the valve cover and disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor from the throttle body.
  10. Remove the driver side PCV connection from the intake manifold and valve cover.
  11. Disconnect any electrical connections on the passenger side including the fuel injector and coil on plug connections.
  12. Disconnect the driver side fuel injector and coil on plug connections.
  13. Remove the EVAP vacuum line from the intake manifold, and disconnect the fuel supply line with a fuel line removal tool.
  14. Have some rags ready to catch any fuel that may run out of the fuel rail.
  15. Remove the eight bolts from the coil on plugs, and remove them from the car.
  16. For some reason a boot becomes unattached from the body of the plug, simply remove the boot from the cylinder head with a pair of pliers.
  17. Finish removing any electrical connections that could still be connected.
  18. Disconnect the CMCV or Charge Motion Control Valve connection on the back of the intake manifold.
  19. Remove the fuel rail bolts and remove the fuel rails from the car.
  20. Have some rags ready to catch any fuel that may run out of the injectors.
  21. It may help, if you zip tie some of your electrical connections and fuel supply line out of your way.
  22. Remove the 10mm bolts from the intake manifold and bring the manifold forward to disconnect the rear vacuum line.
  23. Now you can remove the factory intake manifold and throttle body from the car.
  24. Take this time to CAREFULLY clean around the intake ports in the cylinder head and cover the holes with quality masking tape or rags.
  25. Position both the driver and passenger side electrical wiring toward the bottom of the valve cover.
  26. Remove the dip stick bolt from the engine block and carefully remove the dip stick from the car.
  27. Position the timing mark on the crank pulley to the one o’clock position.
  28. This can be done by rotating the crank pulley bolt with a breaker bar and 18mm socket.
  29. With compressed air, blow away any debris that could be sitting where the valve cover and cylinder head meet.
  30. Starting on the driver side, loosen the 8mm valve cover bolts and remove the valve cover.
  31. Carefully scrape away the old RTV from the gasket and remove the gasket.
  32. Clean the area where the valve cover gasket was and stuff some rags into the exhaust ports in the cylinder head.
  33. Rotate the crank pulley clockwise until the timing mark is at the 1 o’clock position.
  34. Ensure that the cam lobes on cylinder number five are coming up on the exhaust stroke.
  35. Position the valve spring compressor over one of the intake valves on cylinder number five.
  36. Compress the spring and remove the camshaft follower.
  37. Do the same for the other intake valve and remove the follower.
  38. Locate the exhaust valve over cylinder number seven.
  39. Remove it as well.
  40. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark is at the 7 o’clock position.
  41. Spray the cam phaser with quality brake clean and mark the chain and phaser.
  42. Next, position a timing chain wedge tool in between the timing chain and chain guides.
  43. Ensure that the tool is installed square to the timing chain and engine block.
  44. Remove the camshaft position sensor from the timing cover.
  45. Carefully loosen and remove the cam phaser bolt with a 15mm socket.
  46. Discard this bolt since you will be using a brand new one.
  47. Loosen and remove the bolts on the camshaft front bearing cap.
  48. Remove the bearing cap.
  49. Remove the remaining bearing caps in the sequence shown.
  50. Clean and inspect each bearing cap.
  51. Insure there is no foreign material in the oil metering groove located on the front thrust bearing cap.
  52. Carefully separate the cam and phaser and then remove the cam from the cylinder head.
  53. Lubricate the camshaft journals with assembly lube or fresh engine oil.
  54. Install the new Ford Racing camshaft in the phaser and onto the cylinder head.
  55. Apply fresh engine oil to the new phaser bolt and finger tighten.
  56. Verify the phaser and timing chain marks are still in alignment.
  57. Install the camshaft bearing caps in their original locations.
  58. Be sure and lubricate the caps with fresh engine oil or assembly lube.
  59. Refer to the Ford Racing instructions for the correct torque sequence.
  60. Torque the bolts to 89lb/in.
  61. Finish tightening the new phaser bolt and torque to 30lb/ft.
  62. Tighten an additional 90 degrees with a torque degree gauge.
  63. You can now remove the timing chain wedge tool.
  64. Rotate the crank shaft a half turn counterclockwise so that the timing mark is at the 1 o’clock position.
  65. Position the valve spring compressor over the valves as to which the camshaft followers were removed.
  66. Compress the spring and reinstall the follower into place.
  67. Do the same for the other intake valve on cylinder five and the exhaust valve on cylinder seven.
  68. Reinstall your Camshaft Position Sensor.
  69. Clean any missed areas around the Variable Cam Timing sensor and cylinder head.
  70. Remove the rags from the exhaust ports.
  71. Apply fresh engine oil to the top of the cam lobes.
  72. Clean any foreign material from underneath the valve cover.
  73. Apply a small amount of RTV where the cylinder head and valve cover meet.
  74. Reinstall your valve cover and torque the bolts to 89 lb-in.
  75. Repeat these EXACT same steps for the passenger side.
  76. Ford Racing Intake Manifold Install
  77. Cut the fuel line off of the nipples on the fuel rails.
  78. Clean the fuel injectors with quality brake clean.
  79. Remove the alternator bracket using 8mm and 10mm sockets.
  80. Enlarge the smaller of the two holes using a 1/4” drill bit.
  81. Reinstall the alternator bracket and torque the bolts to 89 lb-in.
  82. Using pliers or an adjustable wrench, bend the tab forward to approx. a 45 degree angle.
  83. Remove the rags or masking tape from the cylinder head intake ports and clean any missed areas.
  84. Assemble all of the dress up bolts into the new intake manifold.
  85. Blow the Ford Racing manifold free of any potential foreign debris.
  86. Route the included fuel crossover line underneath the manifold with the paint mark oriented toward the driver side.
  87. Position the Ford Racing intake manifold onto the cylinder heads.
  88. Attach the push pin into the modified hole on the alternator bracket.
  89. Use the two long bolts and thin washers for the center locations.
  90. These bolts should be started first, but DO NOT tighten.
  91. The mid-length bolts are the front two bolts and the short bolts are for the remaining open locations.
  92. Lube all of the bolts with anti-seize or fresh engine oil.
  93. Hand-start all of the bolts before snugging or torquing any of them down.
  94. Use the illustration shown for the appropriate torque sequence.
  95. Torque all of the bolts to 89 in/lb.
  96. Apply a small amount of fresh engine oil to the fuel injector O-rings.
  97. Reinstall both fuel rails into the intake manifold and connect the crossover line.
  98. Torque the fuel bolts to 89 in/lb.
  99. Transfer both vacuum line connections from the factory intake manifold.
  100. Transfer the stock throttle body and torque the bolts to 70 in/lb.
  101. Now is the time to re position all of the electrical wiring and connect any of the removed connections.
  102. The only connection that will remain open will be the Charge Motion Control Valve connection at the back of the intake manifold.
  103. Give everything a solid once over, and you’re all done!

Comments


About the Video

Mustang GT Ford Racing Hot Rod Cam & Intake Manifold Install (05-10 4.6L)

Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related!

Published on 2015-05-18
The Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams were designed with a few things in mind, to increase horsepower and torque across the entire power band and add some serious bumpty-bump to your three valve Mustang! These camshafts are engineered for naturally aspirated and supercharged applications to cover a wide variety of engine setups. It is recommended that these cams be used with long tube headers to achieve significant power gains as well as a Ford Racing Intake Manifold and Throttle Body.

These Hot Rod Cams will increase lift from the stock 11mm/0.433” to 12mm/0.472. Intake and exhaust duration will be 221/240 degrees at 50 thousandths lift with a lobe separation of 110 degrees. You can still use your factory valve springs, followers, and lash adjusters up to 6800 rpms. You’ll need a timing chain wedge tool, valve spring compressor, and new cam phaser bolts prior to install and a custom tune IS required once you do get these cams installed. Lastly, Ford Racing does include thorough instructions with all needed torque sequences and specs.

The Ford Racing Intake Manifold will offer a lightweight composite construction, high-flow runners and an open plenum design. It will fit under a stock hood and will allow gains across the entire power band! Ford Racing has tested this intake up to 2 bar pressure which makes it a perfect addition for any of you guys with forced induction! It will even feature built in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Deletes [also called Charge Motion Runner Control CMRC delete]. All needed hardware is included along with detailed installation instructions, and like the cams, a custom tune is required.

-Baseline Dyno- 281HP/309TQ

• 93 Octane
• Custom Tune
• Steeda CAI
• BBK 62mm Throttle Body
• Ford Racing Shorty Headers
• Bassani Off-Road X-Pipe
• Ford Racing 'Stinger' Catback
• 3.73 Gears
• 5R55S Transmission (5 Speed Auto)
• One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
• 18" wheels/tires
• Pull was made in 4th gear (1:1)


-After Dyno- 315HP/318TQ +34HP/+9TQ

• Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams
• Ford Racing Intake Manifold
• 93 Octane
• Custom Tune (Re-flash)
• Steeda CAI
• BBK 62mm Throttle Body
• Ford Racing Shorty Headers
• Bassani Off-Road X-Pipe
• Ford Racing 'Stinger' Catback
• 3.73 Gears
• 5R55S Transmission (5 Speed Auto)
• One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
• 18" wheels/tires
• Pull was made in 4th gear (1:1)
Transcript
What’s going guys, Landan here with LMR! And today I’m going to be breaking down Ford Racing’s Hot Rod Cams and Intake Manifold fitting the 2005-2010 Mustang GT!

Ford Racing is dedicated to manufacturing the highest quality products offered in the Mustang market. Several of Ford Racing’s parts have made their way onto a ton of project cars here at LMR, all of which maintained an OEM fit and finish!

The Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams were designed with a few things in mind, to increase horsepower and torque across the entire power band and add some serious bumpty-bump to your three valve Mustang! These camshafts are engineered for naturally aspirated and supercharged applications to cover a wide variety of engine setups. It is recommended that these cams be used with long tube headers to achieve significant power gains as well as a Ford Racing Intake Manifold and Throttle Body.

These Hot Rod Cams will increase lift from the stock 11mm/0.433” to 12mm/0.472. Intake and exhaust duration will be 221/240 degrees at 50 thousandths lift with a lobe separation of 110 degrees. You can still use your factory valve springs, followers, and lash adjusters up to 6800 rpms. You’ll need a timing chain wedge tool, valve spring compressor, and new cam phaser bolts prior to install and a custom tune IS required once you do get these cams installed. Lastly, Ford Racing does include thorough instructions with all needed torque sequences and specs.

Now that we have the Hot Rod Cams covered, let’s dive into the Ford Racing Intake Manifold. This intake manifold will offer a lightweight composite construction, high-flow runners and an open plenum design. It will fit under a stock hood and will allow gains across the entire power band! Ford Racing has tested this intake up to 2 bar pressure which makes it a perfect addition for any of you guys with forced induction! It will even feature built in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Deletes (also called Charge Motion Runner Control CMRC delete). All needed hardware is included along with detailed installation instructions, and like the cams, a custom tune is required.

Let’s get to the good stuff fellas. We’re going to show you how to install BOTH the Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams and Intake Manifold into this Windveil Blue GT. But first let’s get it strapped down to the dyno and see what it makes with the current modifications. Which is, a Steeda CAI, BBK 62mm throttle body, Ford Racing Shorties, O/R X-pipe, Ford Racing Stinger Catback, 3:73 gears, a one piece aluminum driveshaft, and custom tune.

Well, not bad for an automatic car. It made 281HP and 309TQ. Now, follow along guys as we show you the detailed steps on installing the Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams and Intake Manifold.

[INSTALL]

To begin installation, disconnect the Fuel Pump Driver Module. This is located in the trunk, near the spare tire. Start the car and allow it to idle until it stalls. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the strut tower brace if equipped.

Slide the red locking tab back and disconnect the Mass Air Flow sensor connection. Disconnect the passenger side PCV from the intake elbow. Loosen the hose clamps from the coupler between the throttle body and intake elbow.

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the air box to the fender apron, and remove the intake from the car. Disconnect any electrical connections on the driver side. Back on the passenger side, remove the PCV connection from the valve cover and disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor from the throttle body.

Remove the driver side PCV connection from the intake manifold and valve cover. Disconnect any electrical connections on the passenger side including the fuel injector and coil on plug connections. Now, disconnect the driver side fuel injector and coil on plug connections.

Remove the EVAP vacuum line from the intake manifold, and disconnect the fuel supply line with a fuel line removal tool. Have some rags ready to catch any fuel that may run out of the fuel rail. Remove the eight bolts from the coil on plugs, and remove them from the car.

For some reason a boot becomes unattached from the body of the plug, simply remove the boot from the cylinder head with a pair of pliers. Finish removing any electrical connections that could still be connected. Disconnect the CMCV or Charge Motion Control Valve connection on the back of the intake manifold.

Remove the fuel rail bolts and remove the fuel rails from the car. Have some rags ready to catch any fuel that may run out of the injectors. It may help, if you zip tie some of your electrical connections and fuel supply line out of your way. Remove the 10mm bolts from the intake manifold and bring the manifold forward to disconnect the rear vacuum line.

Now you can remove the factory intake manifold and throttle body from the car. Take this time to CAREFULLY clean around the intake ports in the cylinder head and cover the holes with quality masking tape or rags. Position both the driver and passenger side electrical wiring toward the bottom of the valve cover.

Remove the dip stick bolt from the engine block and carefully remove the dip stick from the car. Position the timing mark on the crank pulley to the one o’clock position. This can be done by rotating the crank pulley bolt with a breaker bar and 18mm socket. With compressed air, blow away any debris that could be sitting where the valve cover and cylinder head meet.

Starting on the driver side, loosen the 8mm valve cover bolts and remove the valve cover. Carefully scrape away the old RTV from the gasket and remove the gasket. Clean the area where the valve cover gasket was and stuff some rags into the exhaust ports in the cylinder head.

Rotate the crank pulley clockwise until the timing mark is at the 1 o’clock position. Ensure that the cam lobes on cylinder number five are coming up on the exhaust stroke. Position the valve spring compressor over one of the intake valves on cylinder number five. Compress the spring and remove the camshaft follower.

Do the same for the other intake valve and remove the follower. Now, locate the exhaust valve over cylinder number seven. Remove it as well. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark is at the 7 o’clock position. Spray the cam phaser with quality brake clean and mark the chain and phaser.

Next, position a timing chain wedge tool in between the timing chain and chain guides. Ensure that the tool is installed square to the timing chain and engine block. Remove the camshaft position sensor from the timing cover. Carefully loosen and remove the cam phaser bolt with a 15mm socket. Discard this bolt since you will be using a brand new one.

Loosen and remove the bolts on the camshaft front bearing cap. Remove the bearing cap. Now, remove the remaining bearing caps in the sequence shown. Clean and inspect each bearing cap. Insure there is no foreign material in the oil metering groove located on the front thrust bearing cap.

Carefully separate the cam and phaser and then remove the cam from the cylinder head. Lubricate the camshaft journals with assembly lube or fresh engine oil. Install the new Ford Racing camshaft in the phaser and onto the cylinder head. Apply fresh engine oil to the new phaser bolt and finger tighten. Verify the phaser and timing chain marks are still in alignment.

Install the camshaft bearing caps in their original locations. Be sure and lubricate the caps with fresh engine oil or assembly lube. Refer to the illustration for the correct torque sequence. Torque the bolts to 89lb/in. Finish tightening the new phaser bolt and torque to 30lb/ft. Tighten an additional 90 degrees with a torque degree gauge. You can now remove the timing chain wedge tool.

Rotate the crank shaft a half turn counterclockwise so that the timing mark is at the 1 o’clock position. Position the valve spring compressor over the valves as to which the camshaft followers were removed. Compress the spring and reinstall the follower into place. Do the same for the other intake valve on cylinder five and the exhaust valve on cylinder seven. Reinstall your Camshaft Position Sensor.

Clean any missed areas around the Variable Cam Timing sensor and cylinder head. Remove the rags from the exhaust ports. Apply fresh engine oil to the top of the cam lobes. Clean any foreign material from underneath the valve cover. For this install, we decided to top the cams off with a nice set of Ford Racing blue valve covers. Apply a small amount of RTV where the cylinder head and valve cover meet. Reinstall your valve cover and torque the bolts to 89 lb-in.

Repeat these EXACT same steps for the passenger side. Now that the cams are installed, let’s move to the Ford Racing Intake Manifold. Start by cutting the fuel line off of the nipples on the fuel rails. Clean the fuel injectors with quality brake clean. Remove the alternator bracket using 8mm and 10mm sockets. Enlarge the smaller of the two holes using a 1/4” drill bit. Reinstall the alternator bracket and torque the bolts to 89 lb-in. Using pliers or an adjustable wrench, bend the tab forward to approx. a 45 degree angle.

Remove the rags or masking tape from the cylinder head intake ports and clean any missed areas. Assemble all of the dress up bolts into the new intake manifold. Blow the Ford Racing manifold free of any potential foreign debris. Route the included fuel crossover line underneath the manifold with the paint mark oriented toward the driver side. Position the Ford Racing intake manifold onto the cylinder heads.

Attach the push pin into the modified hole on the alternator bracket. Use the two long bolts and thin washers for the center locations. These bolts should be started first, but DO NOT tighten. The mid-length bolts are the front two bolts and the short bolts are for the remaining open locations. Lube all of the bolts with anti-seize or fresh engine oil.

Hand-start all of the bolts before snugging or torqueing any of them down. Use the illustration shown for the appropriate torque sequence. Torque all of the bolts to 89 in/lb. Apply a small amount of fresh engine oil to the fuel injector O-rings. Reinstall both fuel rails into the intake manifold and connect the crossover line. Torque the fuel bolts to 89 in/lb. Transfer both vacuum line connections from the factory intake manifold.

Also, transfer the stock throttle body and torque the bolts to 70 in/lb. Now is the time to re-position all of the electrical wiring and connect any of the removed connections. The only connection that will remain open will be the Charge Motion Control Valve connection at the back of the intake manifold. Give everything a solid once over, and you’re all done!

[End Install]

It’s time to get her back on the dyno guys. Of course, we re-flashed the PCM with an updated tune, so let’s see what she makes.

The final numbers were 315HP and 318TQ, which is good for a gain of 34 peak horsepower and 9 lb/ft of torque. Honestly guys, these are some solid, respectable gains for an automatic car. Plus, the sound alone makes this a must have performance mod for any three valve owner.

As always fellas, feel free to drop us a comment with any questions. All of the needed links are in the video description, and will take you back to Late Model Restoration! Don’t forget, subscribe to our YouTube channel for the best install videos out there, and pick up some Ford Racing Hot Cams and an Intake Manifold at Late Model Restoration.com!