How-To: Install Mustang Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates (2015-17)

Posted 4/30/2015 by Landan Durham

Correct caster & camber in your lowered 2015-17 Mustang with Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates.

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2015-17 Mustang Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates

Lowering your 2015-1677 Ford Mustang will cause the top of the front tires to "lean in" towards the center of the car, resulting in rapid and/or uneven tire wear. Especially well-suited for lowered Mustangs, Maximum Motorsport's innovative caster camber plate design provides the ability to adjust the camber setting of your Mustang's front tires. Even a car that is lowered as much as 2.5 inches can still be aligned to factory specifications.

The main plate is laser-cut from a newly-available, very high-grade alloy steel, not the traditional mild steel. The increased durability of this high-strength steel greatly reduces the possibility of bending or flexing. The Maximum Motorsport spherical bearing is designed and custom made right here in the USA. Each kit will include detailed installation instructions and all needed hardware.


Required Tools

  • Jack & Jack Stands
  • Trim Removal Tool
  • Spring Compressors
  • Hammer
  • 1/2" or 3/8" Socket Wrench
  • 15mm Deep Socket
  • 16mm Deep Socket
  • 18mm Deep Socket
  • 21mm Deep Socket
  • 24mm Deep Socket
  • 17mm Wrench
  • 21mm Wrench


Install

  1. Begin by placing the car on a lift or jacking it up and placing it on jack stands.
  2. Remove the factory lug nuts with a 21 millimeter socket, and then remove the wheel.
  3. Remove the brake caliper with a 15mm socket.
  4. Set the caliper on the rear of the k-member.
  5. Remove the brake rotor and set it aside.
  6. Remove the two pushpin clips that wrap the ABS wire to the ABS sensor.
  7. To remove the strut, use a 21mm opening wrench for the bolt and a 24mm deep socket for the nut.
  8. Loosen both nuts, but do not completely remove them.
  9. The strut bolts are spline, so you will have to tap them out with a hammer.
  10. Once you have tapped the bolts loose, go ahead and remove the nuts.
  11. Loosen the three strut tower bolts with a 16mm deep socket, but do not completely remove the nuts.
  12. Remove the sway bar end link nut with a 17mm opening wrench and an 18mm deep socket.
  13. Remove the strut tower nuts, the sway bar end link, and remove the strut from the car.
  14. With a set of spring compressors, compress the factory spring.
  15. Make sure each spring compressor is placed on the opposite side of one another and compress each side of the spring... alternating back and forth until the bottom of the spring starts to separate from the isolator.
  16. Remove the small thread cover from the top of the strut, and remove the strut mount bolt with a 21mm socket.
  17. Remove the strut mount and isolator from the top of the spring.
  18. Position the stud plate through the bearing plate assembly, with the studs facing up.
  19. Then reposition the factory spring perch and rubber isolator over the strut and spring assembly.
  20. Slide the stud plate and bearing plate on the strut, and then tighten the previously removed strut shaft nut.
  21. Release the spring compressors by alternating back and forth until the spring is uncompressed.
  22. Reinstall the strut and spring assembly back into the car.
  23. Install one of the included washers and nuts onto the stud, and then position the included support bracket.
  24. Place two more washers and nuts over the support bracket, and then loosely tighten.
  25. Reassemble your strut, sway bar end link, brake rotor, and caliper.
  26. Torque the strut mount nuts to 46 lb/ft.
  27. Repeat the same steps for the passenger side.

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About the Video

Mustang Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates Review & Install (2015-2016 All)

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Published on 2015-04-27
Lowering your 2015 Ford Mustang will cause the top of the front tires to "lean in" towards the center of the car, resulting in rapid and/or uneven tire wear. Especially well-suited for lowered Mustangs, Maximum Motorsport's innovative caster camber plate design provides the ability to adjust the camber setting of your Mustang's front tires. Even a car that is lowered as much as 2.5 inches can still be aligned to factory specifications.

The main plate is laser-cut from a newly-available, very high-grade alloy steel, not the traditional mild steel. The increased durability of this high-strength steel greatly reduces the possibility of bending or flexing. The Maximum Motorsport spherical bearing is designed and custom made right here in the USA. Each kit will include detailed installation instructions and all needed hardware.
Transcript
Hey, what's going on guys? Lan here with latemodelrestoration.com. Today, I'm going to be taking a closer look at Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates, fitting all 2015 Mustangs. Maximum Motorsports is a well respected, leading developer of suspension systems and performance parts. Established in 1992, the team at Maximum Motorsports has spent countless hours researching and developing the highest quality suspension components for your '79 to present Mustang.

Lowering your 2015 Ford Mustang will cause the top of the front tires to lean in toward the center of the car, resulting in rapid and/or uneven tire wear. Especially well suited for lower Mustangs, Maximum Motorsports innovative Caster/Camber Plate design provide the ability to adjust the camber setting of your Mustang's front tires. Even a car that is lowered 2 and 1/2 inches can still be aligned to factory specifications. The main plate is laser cut from a newly available, very high grade alloy steal, not the traditional mild steel.

The increased durability of this high strength steal greatly reduces the possibility of bending or flexing. The Maximum Motorsports fearful bearing is designed and custom made right here in the USA. Each kit will include detailed installation instructions and all needed hardware. Follow along guys, as we walk you through the installation of the Maximum Motorsport CasterCamber Plates on the 2015 Mustang GT.

Begin by placing the car on a lift or jacking it up and placing it on jack stands. Remove the factory lug nuts with a 21 millimeter socket, and then remove the wheel. To remove the front strut, start by removing the brake caliber. This is held on by two 50 millimeter bolts. Once removed, you could set the caliber on the rear of the [? cave ?] [INAUDIBLE]. Then go ahead and remove the brake rotor and set it aside. Remove the two pushpin clicks that wrap the ABS wire to the ABS sensor.

To remove the strut, use a 21 millimeter opening wrench for the bolt and a 24 millimeter socket for the nut. Loosen both nuts, but do not completely remove them. The strut bolts are spline, so you will have to tap them out with a hammer. Once you have tapped the bolts loose, go ahead and remove the nuts. Next, loosen the three strut tire bolts with a 16 millimeter socket. But don't completely remove the nuts.

Tap the strut bolts out, and then remove the sway bar end link nut with a 17 millimeter opening wrench and an 18 millimeter deep socket. Then remove the strut tire nuts, the sway bar end link, and remove the strut from the car. With a set of spray compressors, compress the factory spring. Make sure each spring compressor is placed on the opposite side of one another and compress each side of the spring, alternating back and forth until the bottom of the spring starts to separate from the [? isolator. ?]

Then remove the small thread cover from the top of the strut, and remove the strut mound bolt with a 21 millimeter socket. From there, remove the strut mount and isolator from the top of the spring. Position the stud plate through the bearing plate assembly, with the stud's facing up. Then reposition the factory spring perch and rubber isolator over the strut and spring assembly. Slide the stud plate and bearing plate on the strut, and then tighten the previously removed strut shaft nut.

Next, release the spring compressors by alternating back and forth until the spring is uncompressed. Now, reinstall the strut and spring assembly back into the car. Install one of the included washers and nuts onto the stud, and then position the included support bracket. Place two more washers and nuts over the support bracket, and then loosely tighten. Reassemble your strut, sway bar end link, brake runner, and caliper.

Finally, torque the strut mount nuts to 46 pound-feet. Do the same for the other side. Give everything a good once over, and you're all done. There you have it guys. This install, for the most part, is extremely straightforward. The only specialty tool you'll need is a set of spring compressors. You could pick some up to have in your tool arsenal or rent some from your local auto part store. If you want to see more knowledgeable and in depth install videos like this one, subscribe to our YouTube channel by clicking the link below if you haven't already done so.

And don't forget to grab your Maximum Motorsports Castor/Camber plates at latemodelrestoration.com.