How To: Install Mustang Power Driver Seat Track Repair Kit (92-98)

Power Driver Seat Track Repair Kit

If your 1992-1998 Mustang's power seats have stopped moving up and down or front to back, than 5.0Resto's new Mustang power seat track repair kit may be the solution. Over time, the power seat motor in your Mustang can start to malfunction, preventing you from making the correct adjustments to your front seats. This new kit restores the up and down and front to back functions of your power seat tracks and features factory correct connections for an easy installation.

Included in the kit will be a seat track vertical and horizontal motor, left and right gear assembly, flexible drive shafts, and the needed hardware to button it all up. A notable feature for the included gears, is that they are stronger than your factory, making this kit a more reliable setup.

Required Tools

• Socket Set
• Socket Wrench
• Wobble Socket
• Extensions
• Flathead Screwdriver
• Needle Nose Pliers
• T45 Torx Socket
• 3/8" Drill Bit
• Small Drift
• Hammer
• Pneumatic Saw
• Multi-tool
• WD-40
• Cutters
• Pry Bar

Installation

1. To begin installation, remove the two rear seat track to floor pan bolts with a 15mm socket or ratchet wrench.
2. Locate the two nuts at the front and remove those as well with a 15mm deep socket.
3. Bring the seat back forward and then rotate the seat backward to expose the underside of the seat.
4. Disconnect the main power wire running from underneath the carpet to the seat’s electrical connection.
5. Carefully remove the seat from the car.
6. Flip the seat over on a clean working area.
7. Disconnect any remaining electrical connections.
8. Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the seat track to the bottom of the seat.
9. Remove the seat track from the bottom of the seat.
10. Locate the two screws holding the forward/back motor to the bracket; remove the screws with a 1/4” socket.
11. Remove the flexible driveshafts from both ends of the motor, and then properly dispose of the old motor.
12. Before you de-pin the forward/back electrical connection, mark the connector with the respective positive and negative identifiers.
13. Take a small flat head screw driver or de-pinning tool and push down and up on the red locking tab; remove the locking tab with a pair of needle nose pliers.
14. Slide the pin retainer toward the center of the connector and remove the wire from the connector.
15. Do the same for the other three wires as well.
16. Be sure and mark the connector with positive and negative identifiers like you did for the other side.
17. Starting on the passenger side of the track, remove the T45 Torx bolt holding the gear screw block to the slider assembly.
18. Drill out the factory slide pin with a 3/8” drill bit.
19. Tap out the factory slide pin with a hammer and small drift.
20. Once removed, discard of the factory pin since this kit comes with new ones.
21. Carefully pull the gear assembly up and remove the gear screw block.
22. Slide the gear assembly out of the metal straps.
23. Remove the driveshaft boot, driveshaft, and plastic retainer from the factory gear assembly.
24. Keep the boot and retainer since these will be reused; feel free to discard the factory flexible driveshaft.
25. Remove the plastic seat track trim from the seat track if yours is still attached.
26. Slide back the slider assembly; if for some reason yours is stuck, lightly tap it with a hammer.
27. Mark the seat track as shown and then cut that area with an air saw, multi-tool, or cutoff wheel.
28. Because the replacement gears are over-sized compared to the factory units, the mounting holes need to be slightly vertically elongated.
29. Take small steps and periodically test fit the new gears into the frame.
30. The hole can be elongated with a multi-tool or a carbide bit attached to a drill.
31. It may also help to slightly bend the bracket forward so it doesn’t come in contact with the gear.
32. If you notice, the gear is still not parallel with the seat track even after elongating the metal bracket.
33. There is still some trimming needed to get these to fit properly.
34. Pull the gear assembly up and measure an inch and three eights from the base of the gear.
35. Drill pilot holes into the bottom of the seat track channel.
36. Carefully cut out the marked area; be sure NOT to cut into the bottom side slider on the track.
37. File or sand down any rough areas.
38. We also noticed that we needed to trim the channel even with the outside most bracket on the track.
39. Grab one of the included clevis pins and washers.
40. Slide the washer over the pin and then slide the clevis pin through the track and gear assembly.
41. Slide another washer onto the end, place the cotter pin through the hole, and then bend the cotter pin ends to secure it in place.
42. The gear should either be parallel or touching the seat track channel.
43. Apply some white lithium grease to the gears and spread it evenly.
44. Screw the gear block back onto the gear assembly.
45. Whenever you finish the other side, it is extremely important that each gear block is even with each other.
46. Take this time lubricate both sliders with WD-40.
47. Ensure they have proper movement by sliding them back and forth.
48. Now, repeat the same steps for the gear assembly on the other side.
49. Cut the three tabs off of the plastic driveshaft retainer and slide it into the gear housing.
50. Slide one of the new flexible driveshafts into the new gear assembly.
51. Test fit the driveshaft cover; trim as needed until the body of the driveshaft is barely exposed.
52. Test fit the motor and then set it aside.
53. Trim the other driveshaft cover to length and then cover the new driveshafts in white lithium grease.
54. Install both driveshafts, driveshaft covers, and then slide both into the new motor.
55. Tighten the two previously removed 1/4” screws.
56. Moving to the up/down motor; remove the 1/4” screw holding the slide pin cover, and then remove the cover.
57. Use a drift and a hammer to tap the slide pin through the track and motor.
58. Don’t completely remove the pin from the motor bracket; this will be reused to secure the new motor.
59. Flip the seat track assembly over and unscrew the old motor.
60. Be sure and count the number of rotations it took to remove the old motor.
61. Evenly spread white lithium grease over the new gear assembly and then re-thread the gear into place counting the number of rotations.
62. Flip the seat track back over.
63. It will help if you use a pry bar to depress the gas shock.
64. Tap the pin back through the new motor and bracket.
65. Reposition the slide pin cover, and retighten the previously removed 1/4” screw.
66. Tighten the two previously removed T45 Torx bolts.
67. Reposition the new electrical wires into their designated areas.
68. Reinstall the red locking tab into the electrical connector.
69. Reattach the plastic seat track trim.
70. Reposition the seat track onto the bottom of the seat and tighten the previously removed 10mm bolts.
71. Plug in any electrical connections that were unplugged when removing the seat track from the seat.
72. Reinstall the seat into the car and connect the main electrical connection.
73. Tighten the two previously removed 15mm nuts and 15mm bolts that secure the seat track to the floor pan.
74. Test for operation, and you’re all done!

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