About the Video
How To Remove & Delete Mustang Smog Pump (1982-1995)
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Published on 2019-01-25
Mustang 5.0 Resto Smog Pump Eliminator/Delete Pulley.
This 5.0 Resto Smog Pump Eliminator Kit for 5.0L and 5.8L Ford engines is ideal for Vortech/Paxton applications that will be mounted on the passenger side of the engine. Free-turning Pulley requires less horsepower from engine resulting in more power to the rear wheels. The eliminator kit retains factory size belts or same belt that you are running on your Mustang. This smog eliminator pulley comes assembled with the bearing assembled to mounting bracket making this product ready to bolt in with factory bolts. Don't forget to purchase your head plugs to complete your installation!
- 4.5" Outer Pulley Diameter
- 6-Rib Pulley
- 1994-1995 will require minor clearancing of the eliminator & the accessory bracket to achieve proper bolt alignment.
- This part is not intended for sale or use on pollution controlled motor vehicles.
Applications: 1982-1995 5.0L Mustangs
Item # LRS-9486BL
What’s up everybody? Landan here with lmr.com! In today’s video, I’ll quickly talk about 5.0 Resto’s smog pump delete assembly and show you the steps you need to take to install one into your Fox Mustang.
This smog pump delete or smog pump eliminator is designed with simplicity in mind. It isn’t over-engineered or a complicated component. It consists of a 4.5” diameter pulley that incorporates 6 ribs which will allow you to reuse your existing belt.
The bracket, pulley shaft and pulley all feature billet aluminum construction and you’ll find that the bracket itself as the correct threaded provisions for the retaining hardware.
Speaking of retaining hardware, you can reuse what is on the car or take this time to upgrade to 5.0 Resto’s hardware. It includes both the long and short bolt along with the bracket retaining nut and bracket. All of the hardware is manufactured by ARP which will offer good looks and resistance to corrosion.
Now the only disclosure for this part is the fact that you are removing a component related to pollution or emissions. It is important that you check with your local laws and regulation before installing this delete as all states typically have different emission laws.
Also note that removing the smog pump and the rest of the components associated with the pump, you will have to plug the back of the cylinder heads.
I’ll be honest with you, this is a pain in the you what because of the years of carbon build-up and the lack of work room.
Typically, what I have found that works best if you’re doing this with the engine in the car; is to flute the plugs and then thread them in the holes to clean out the carbon.
As far as fitment goes for this smog pump delete, it will fit 1982 to 1995 five liter based engines. Now 1994 to 1995 owners will have to slightly clearance the delete bracket and the accessory bracket to achieve proper belt alignment.
In the box will be one smog pump delete with the rest of the components being available on the site a la carte.
Begin by rotating the belt tensioner with an 18mm and break-over bar.
Slide the belt off the smog pump.
Disconnect the mass air meter connection if equipped and remove the inlet pipe.
Dislodge the small vacuum line from the diverter valve and air bypass valve.
Loosen and remove the top 1/2-inch smog pump retaining bolt.
From underneath the car, loosen and remove the 1/2-inch nut from the stud in the engine block.
Bring the smog pump down and remove the hose.
The clamp on our car was broken, but more than likely you’ll have to loosen this clamp first before removing the hose.
Remove the smog pump from the car.
Remove the 5/8-inch bolt securing the small bracket.
Either clean and reuse the hardware, or pick-up our hardware kit that includes a new bracket and properly spec’d ARP hardware.
Apply some anti-seize to the shorter bolt, the longer bolt including the shoulder, and the stud on the engine block.
Position the delete assembly and slide the long bolt through the top.
This can be loosely tightened at this time.
Position the bracket over the stud and thread on the nut.
Align the bracket with the delete and loosely tighten the short bolt.
Go ahead and snug down the hardware and then fully tighten.
While you’re underneath the car, loosen the hose clamps that secures the rubber joint tube.
This tube connects the long air tube to the mid-pipe.
To keep things simple, I just cut ours right down the middle.
Remove the hose from the mid-pipe.
Take a pair of vice-grips and crimp the end of the tube on the mid-pipe.
You can also cut this flush with the piping and weld it up.
Moving back into the engine bay, loosen the hose clamp that secures the upper hose to the upper check valve.
Loosen and remove the lower hose from the bottom of the air diverter valve.
This portion of the smog equipment is free to come out.
On our car, the air tube bracket was loose; we left it in place and addressed the thermactor tube.
This tube is secured to the back of each cylinder head with 1/2-inch bolts.
Loosen and remove these bolts.
In order to remove the thermactor tube, you will need to separate the plastic vacuum union and position it out of the way.
Rotate the thermactor tube in a way that allows you to remove it from behind the engine.
Now you can remove the air tube from the car.
Either clean and reuse the factory smog pump hardware or upgrade to our 5.0 Resto hardware.
We’re upgrading our hardware, but whatever you choose to do; apply some anti-seize to the threads and shoulder of the long bolt, the threads of the short bolt, and the stud on the engine block.
Locate the non-threaded hole that runs through the entire bracket; position this into the factory bracket and slide the long bolt.
Turn it a few times to hold it in place, but do not fully tighten.
Slide the smaller bracket over the stud in the engine block; this will only install one way.
Thread on the nut and finger tighten.
Align this bracket with the rearward threaded hole on the smog pump delete bracket.
Install the short bolt and loosely tighten.
At this time you can tighten all of the hardware associated with the smog pump delete.
Reconnect the vacuum union.
Leave approximately a 1/2-inch of tubing exposed from the union so that you can properly cap these lines.
The lines that need to be cut connected to the air diverter and air bypass valve.
Cap these lines with 5/32 vacuum caps.
Now comes the fun part!!
What I have found that works best on cleaning the carbon is by fluting the smog plugs.
Carefully do this with a grinder! Be sure and use proper eye and body protection.
Once the flutes are made, thread the plug a few turns until the flutes become filled with carbon.
Clean the flutes and repeat.
Do this until the entire opening is carbon free.
Once this is achieved, apply some high-temp thread locking compound with sealer to the threads.
Run the plug all the way into the head until it is flush with the back of the head.
I use a quarter or a bolt with floating washer to run the plug down.
Do this for both holes.
Now you can reassemble the air intake system and reconnect the mass air flow sensor if equipped.
Before installing the belt verify that yours does not need to be replaced.
Ours did, so we installed a Motorcraft belt for our application and year range.
Properly route the drive belt onto the system.
Rotate the tensioner and position the belt into place.
Verify that the tensioner is within its recommended range.
From there you’ll need to allow the thread sealer to fully cure and then you can start the car to verify everything works as it should.
After that, you’re all finished!
Whenever you plan on removing the smog pump from your Fox, allow yourself enough time to properly plug the heads. The rest of the smog pump junk can be removed fairly quickly.
Once you do get all of that crap out of the engine bay; you’ll be asking yourself why you didn’t do this sooner.
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