How To Install 1984-1993 Fox Body Mustang Upholstery

The video and steps below are for installing ACME branded upholstery. Using another brand of upholstery may require additional steps for installation.

This article summarizes the full video due to the number of steps for the installation. Check out the full step by step upholstery install video on our channel.

We have already removed the front and rear seats and completely removed the upholstery from the car. Be sure to check out the other removal articles if you haven't done so already.

Installing upholstery isn’t complicated, but time-consuming. By far, the front seats are more difficult than the rear, and if you feel like this isn’t for you, get in touch with a local upholstery shop and have them install it. Along with the new upholstery, we installed new front foam because just about every car could benefit from some new foam, especially if it’s still original.

Required Tools

• Pliers
• Staple Gun
• Razor Blade
• Phillips Head Screw Driver Set
• Trash Bags
• Socket Set
• Multi-Purpose Grease
• Spray Lubricant
• All Purpose Cleaner & Microfiber Towel

1. Starting with the rear seat bottom, place it on your workbench and place the new upholstery over the foam. Roll the corners over the foam and work the upholstery, so it’s even.



2. Flip the seat bottom over. Load a hog ring into the pliers. Starting in the center and front of the foam, locate the marks from the existing hog rings. Pull the upholstery into position and install a hog ring around the listing rod and into the metal bracket in the foam. From the center, work your way out until you reach the corners.



3. Cut away the excess piping whenever you reach the corner.



4. Pull the upholstery around the corner and continue installing hog rings. Once you work down one of the sides, jump over to the opposite end and repeat the steps. It’s in your best interest to work evenly when installing upholstery.


5. Now, you can work down the rear of the foam. When you get to the recessed areas, make sure you pull and tuck the upholstery, so it installs cleanly. If needed, install more hog rings than the factory did.

1. Position one of the new rear seats' back carpet pieces on the workbench. (These are usually not side-specific, but it never hurts to reference the old upholstery first to make sure.) Place the old carpet on top of the new one and align the bottoms. Depending on the color of the material, use a suitable marker and trace the opening for the seat back release mechanism.



2. If you haven’t already done this, wipe down the back side with an all-purpose cleaner and microfiber towel. First, you’ll cut down the center of the marked area, and then you can cut along the inside of the mark with a razor blade or a good pair of scissors.



3. Locate the two screw holes at the bottom of the seat back. Sometimes these aren’t evenly spaced and can drive people crazy. If that’s the case, you can install the carpet retaining screws symmetrically if you’d like. Set the carpet on top of the seat back and align the cut-out with the release mechanism.
   
   We installed one of the screws into an existing hole and used a tape measure to see where we needed to place the other one. Whenever we had our measurements, we installed the second screw. Flip the assembly over.



4. On either side of the carpet, lift the foam and tuck the welt underneath the foam. Install a few staples to hold this in place. Cut the remaining slack and install another staple. Do the same for the other side.



5. Flip the assembly back over and make sure the carpet is flat against the seat back. On either side, tuck the carpet and make sure it’s snug. Use a poking device to locate the first pushpin hole. Install a staple.
   
   Find the next hole and install another staple between the two holes. Do this until you reach the top, and then do the same for the other side.



6. Once you reach the corner, reference the factory seat carpet and cut two relief cuts in the new carpet. Roll the carpet over and install a staple.
   
   Move to the top section of the carpet and install a staple. Finally, roll the center section of the carpet from the relief over the seat back and secure it with a staple. If there happens to be some overhang, install a few more staples to the carpet that is situated between the foam and the seat back. Repeat these steps for the other corner. Now you can work your way across the top, repeating the same processes.



7. Scan over the carpet and install additional staples where you see fit. If the foam feels loose, tap the existing staples with a pair of pliers.
   
   The rear seat backs are side specific. The small section in the upholstery is positioned toward the car's center, and the larger section gets positioned towards the outside. You’ll also notice this on the foam since the side bolsters have different widths.



8. Place the upholstery over the foam. The ACME upholstery already has preinstalled listing rods, so there is no need to transfer the factory rods. Starting with the upper horizontal listing rod. Install a rog ring in the center, followed by two more on the outside. Do this for the two vertical listing rods as well.



9. Now, you can roll the upholstery over the corners.



10. At the bottom of the seat back, roll the plastic sheathing out. Then you’ll want to roll it once and install the push pins, so the stems are facing out.
    
    Depending on the material, you may have to make a small incision for the push pin to pass through. Whenever you roll the sheathing over, this will create a blind seam. Roll the sheathing and fully install all the push pins. You may need to fully seat the push pins with a dead blow if needed. Repeat these same steps for the perimeter of the seat back.



11. Grease the seat back release slider mechanism with all-purpose sprayable grease. Be sure to work the grease into place by moving the slider back and forth several times.



12. Reinstall the seat back release trim and tighten the retaining screws. Reinstall the handle and tighten the screw. We installed a new trim piece and handled, which is available on our site.



13. Now that we’re finished with the seat back, remove the two screws securing the carpet. We’ll need these out of the way whenever we reinstall the assembly back into the car. Go ahead and repeat these steps for the other seat back, and that completes the rear seats.

1. Moving to the front seats, put some paper or drop cloth down on your workbench. Place one of the knee bolster plates from the foam kit on the bench. Remove the retaining hardware.



2. Wipe the top side of the plate with a prep spray. Test fit the plate to the foam first and make sure it’s oriented properly. Whenever that’s verified, read the instructions on the spray adhesive designed for headliners and upholstery. Shake the can and spray both the plate and foam. Per the instructions on the can, we applied a second coat of adhesive.



3. Install the foam onto the plate whenever the recommended time has elapsed. Get this right the first time because there is no going back after these two make contact. Repeat these steps for the other plate and foam and allow adequate cure time before assembly.



4. Moving onto the headrest, these are not side-specific but installed a certain way. Match the orientation of the headrest upholstery with the profile of the headrest.



5. Whenever this is verified, place a trash bag over the headrest. Squeeze the foam so that the upholstery can slide over it. Once it’s over the foam, tear off the trash bag.



6. Tuck the pieces of fabric and then stretch the upholstery to attach the velcro. Do the same for the other headrest.



7. Place one of the lower seat frames on the workbench. Vacuum up and blow out any dirt, debris, or leftover foam from the frame. If needed, take this opportunity to replace the roll spring and helical springs. Check out the dedicated article on those components.



8. The new foams have a hole for the adjustable side bolsters, so locate the correct one for the corresponding side you’re working on and install it onto the frame.



9. Position the foam onto the frame and mark the area for the power lumber switch if equipped. Cut the marked area with a razor blade. Reference the factory foam and mark the new foam for the power lumbar supply tube.



10. Make a hole in the foam and feed the supply tube through the foam.



11. Locate the correct seat bottom upholstery for the corresponding side you’re working on. You can differentiate the driver and passenger sides by looking at the rear of the upholstery. One side of the upholstery will already be pre-cut so that it clears the two holes for the lower hinge plate.



12. Once the right side is verified, lay the upholstery over the foam upside down and reinstall the four listing rods into the listing rod loops.



13. Align the center listing rod with the new foam and install three hog rings starting in the center and working out.



14. Go ahead and work the upholstery over the bolsters. From the side of the foam, reach inside and situate the upholstery as needed. Work around the perimeter, stretching and pulling the upholstery into position.



15. Flip the assembly over and install the rearward clip.



16. Flip it back over and locate where the lumber supply tube exits the foam. Use a poking device and puncture the seat material. Release the clip and then pass the tube through the upholstery.



17. Roll the upholstery back over the bolsters and locate the rearward metal loop at the rear of the foam. This is where the long listing rod will get positioned. Push the listing rod down and then slide it into the metal loop.



18. At the front of the seat, install at least two hog rings to secure the listing rod to the frame properly. Do the same for the other listing rod. Now you can go ahead and roll the upholstery back over the bolsters.



19. Flip the assembly upside down and install the clip over the bottom of the frame that shares the same side as the power lumbar switch and bolster adjustment knob. Mark the areas that need to be cut. Before cutting, reference the old upholstery first. That way, you have an idea of how large the openings need to be.



20. Since these are currently unavailable, we cleaned up the power lumbar bezel and face plate with some all-purpose cleaners. Position the bezel in place in the correct orientation and reinstall the switch. Remember, the switch attaches to the bezel with two spring clips; you’ll hear it click into place. Align the bezel with the screw holes in the frame and reinstall the screws. Carefully tighten these down. Reinstall the face plate in the correct orientation.



21. We chose to install new bolster adjustment knobs, which are currently available from LMR.com. Before installing the new ones, we noticed that the insert from the factory knob stayed in place and needed to be removed. If this happens to you, carefully pry the old sleeve off the shaft with a small pry bar and dead blow. Be sure you don’t damage or scar your new upholstery.



22. Clean the shaft and remove the set screw from the knob. It doesn’t hurt to apply a dab of blue thread-locking compound to the threads. Reinstall the set screw and slide the adjustment knob onto the shaft. Align the set screw with the hole in the shaft and run it down until it stops.



23. At the front of the seat frame, cut the excess piping on both sides. Pull the clip over the seat frame and snap it into place. Do the same for the two side clips and the rearward clip.



24. Reference the hold upholstery and place the metal frame for the knee bolster in front of the seat. Mark each area and cut provisions in the new upholstery similar in size to the old.



25. Now that the adhesive on the knee bolster foam has cured, it’s time to assemble those. Place the knee bolster foam into a trash bag and install the new upholstery over the foam in the orientation. Remove the excess trash bag.



26. Roll the upholstery over the plastic frame and install a staple in the center. On the same side, install another staple.



27. Move to the other side of the frame and install three staples. Now you can begin working the corners. Tuck the corners and pull the upholstery towards the center of the frame. Install three staples. Do the same for the other corner. Afterward, I went around the bolster's perimeter and installed staples between each seam.
    
    Use a razor blade and remove the material covering the threaded studs. Do this for all four locations.



28. Clean the plastic bezel and the metal frame. Slide the bezel over the metal frame in the correct orientation. Position the knee bolster over the metal frame and loosely start all four bolts. Carefully tighten all of the bolts. Flip the lower seat assembly over and apply some all-purpose grease to the plastic guides for the knee bolster track.



29. Go ahead and reinstall the knee bolster, followed by the roll pins.



30. On the seat bottom's inward portion, locate the pivot bolt's hole. Poke the hole and enlarge it as needed.



31. Now we can switch gears to the front seat back. I would first look over the seat back frame. These typically develop what everyone knows as the “gangster lean.” The two metal sections will separate, causing the seat to lean.
    
    This can be fixed by prepping the metal, ensuring the seat back is flat, and welding the two pieces back together. When you’re finished with the repair, spray the repaired areas of the frame with a black e-coat.



32. Place the foam facedown and install the seat frame.



33. On the side of the foam with the plastic cover, mark the area that needs to be cut. Cut this area with a razor blade.



34. Bring the strap on the back of the foam over the frame and engage the clip. The seat back upholstery is typically not side-specific, but it never hurts to look over your foam and upholstery to make sure.



35. Roll the seat back upholstery inside-out. In the upper area of the upholstery, cut the listing rod loop on both sides that intersects with the diagonal seam.



36. The only listing rod that needs to be installed at this time is the center-upper rod.



37. Working from the ground, place a trash bag over the foam. Begin installing the upholstery over the foam, stretching and pulling it into place. Once you reach the first listing rod, place it on the workbench.



38. Install three hog rings, starting in the center and working out.



39. Install the center listing rod and continue rolling the upholstery over the foam.



40. When you reach the second listing rod, feed it under the metal loop. This will only need to be done on the side with the metal loop.
    
    The other side of the rod gets positioned under the vertical listing rod. Now you can finish installing the upholstery over the foam.



41. Back on the workbench; lift the upholstery and install one of the large listings rods.



42. Verify that the vertical listing rod passes over the center listing rod and then feel for it at the top of the upholstery. Push it down and guide it through the metal loop. Do the same for the other side. Upholstery is removed for representation.



43. Hog ring the bottom of the listing rod to the foam on both sides. Install as many hog rings as you need. We did one at the corner of the listing rod and two across the front. Do the same for the other side.



44. For the next step, you will need assistance from someone else. At the bottom of the upholstery, bring the two sections together so you can engage the zipper. When doing this, ensure you get the zipper as straight as possible. Tuck the straps into the assembly.



45. Now you can install the headrest. First, reference the factory upholstery, hold the sleeve to the new upholstery, and mark the area. Make an incision at your marks that’s wide enough for the sleeve. Go ahead and clean the sleeve. When installing the sleeve, it may help if you hold the tab with a thin pry tool to keep it from rolling up from the tight tolerances of the new foam.



46. Guide the sleeve into place and install it into the track in the frame. Reinstall the headrest.



47. Flip the seat over and locate the seat back release knob. Cut the upholstery and then begin enlarging the area. Make small cuts first, test fit the bezel, and enlarge as needed.



48. Install the bezel and tighten down the retaining screw. Reinstall the seat back release knob.



49. Lubricate the hinge mechanism with a sprayable multi-purpose grease. Lubricate the bushing and the shoulder on the pivot bolt.



50. Position the seat back over the bottom and loosely start the two hinge bolts.



51. Align the hole on the other side and install the pivot bolt. Go ahead and fully tighten this hardware.



52. Reconnect the lumber supply tube and reinstall the hinge covers.



53. Position the seat on the workbench so that you can install the slider assembly. Place the slider assembly onto the lower seat frame and loosely install two bolts. Move the slider front or back, install the other two bolts, and fully tighten. Go ahead and fully tighten the other bolts. Use some sprayable multi-purpose grease and lubricate the sliders. Work them back and forth to distribute the grease.



54. Slide it back and reinstall the return spring. Whenever you’re finished, make sure the sliders are even. Repeat all of these steps for the other front seat.



55. Before installing the completed seats back into the car, use this opportunity to vacuum the carpet and clean some of the interior areas that are difficult to access with the seats in the car. Reinstall the seats, and you can finally enjoy the fruits of your labor.