About the Video
1979-1993 Fox Body Mustang Run Channel Weatherstrip Install
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Published on 2012-09-24
Replace your dry-rotted 1979-1993 Fox Body Mustang run channel weatherstrip with this 5.0 Resto replacement kit! This Mustang weatherstrip runs in the inside of the door frame and is the piece the door glass rolls up into. It typically cracks in the upper corner and can cause wind noise and water leaks. This kit will replace both driver and passenger side.
These Mustang run channel liners are constructed from OE-style materials and feature the correct felt where the glass makes contact. Once installed, you'll see it as a black rubber on the outside, and black felt on the inside.
Transcript
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Hi. I'm Jeff at latemodelrestoration.com. Today, I'm here with Jonathan, and we're going to show you how to install run channel liners on your '79 to '93 Fox Mustang. Now, Jonathan, these are usually rotted out. Can you tell me more about the replacement parts?
Sure thing, Jeff. Our genuine 50Resto brand replacement run channel liners are made from OE type rubber and have the correct felt bonded to the inside. Typically, why you have to replace these is because the 90 degree in the upper corner of the door frame is completely gone. The rest of the weather strip is dried up and is cracking away. But the number one problem is the felt lining wears away, exposing bare rubber and causes the window glass to bind when it goes up and down.
All right. Sounds good, Jonathan. How about we got these on the car?
Sounds good, man. Let's do it. As you can see, we've already got the door panel out of the way. If you need more help with that, check out our YouTube channel and pull up our Door Panel Removal video.
All right, J-Mac. Now, what tools are required for this install?
Man, just a couple of sockets. You'll want to grab a 11/32 socket and a 7/16 socket.
All right. Sounds good. I'm going to get my tools and get started on the other side.
All right, man. Now, to get started, you'll want to loosen these two nuts right here that hold on the outer mirror. Now, the reason you want to do that is so you can get the weather strip out from behind that mirror. Next thing you want to do, run channel bracket, it has two bolts, one at the top, one at the bottom. You want to fully remove those bolts so you can get the weather strip away from the glass and out of the bracket.
Once that's done, you can go ahead and start pulling down your weather strip and pull it all the way out of the channel and out of the door. As you can see, we've already got the run channel out of the door frame and out of that back corner of the door. That's pretty much the easy part. Only gets mildly more complicated when you get over to the front. All you got to do is reach in, slide this bracket off of the glass, and pull out the rest of the weather strip.
As you can see, we've already got our run channel weather strip started into place. But before you do that, it's a great time to replace your window guide bushings. For more info on that check, out our YouTube channel and pull up our Window Guide Bushing Install video.
For the weather strip, I like to start in this top corner because everything else will center off of that, and work your way down the back of the door frame and then along the top of the channel until you get down to your mirror. A simple paint stir stick is going to be an invaluable tool when installing this because it allows you to slide up in the weather strip and fully engage it into the door frame, and you can just work your way around until you get down to the mirror.
And I brought along another weather strip to show you how that's going to go because you want to tuck the long tail of this weather strip down into the door, around the door glass, and then engage your metal guide channel. Now, it'll look a little something like this. The felt part of the weather strip folds around the glass, and then the metal channel just slides on over the back of the weather strip. Bolt it into place loosely, and then you're ready for final adjustment.
All right, J-Mac, looks like we're down to the final steps. Can you walk us through them?
Absolutely, Jeff. Now, don't forget to tighten up your mirror, and then we're going to move on to the adjustments. These two bolts are going to be loose. This nut needs to be loose up here. One on the bottom can stay tight, no adjustment there.
Then you'll want to loosen up this bolt here that holds on the rear guide. Bump your window up to a point to where you can get to this bolt on the guide bushing bracket. You'll want to loosen that. That way those guide bushings realign themselves on the rod. Then you can finish rolling the window up into place and get it seated in the weather strip. Now, you'll probably have to help it out, so manually push it on up into the channel. Now, Jeff, does everything look good on your side?
Yeah, it looks great.
All right. Now, with that window fully seated in there, you can tighten everything up. On this rear guide, just barely get it in place on the glass. Not a whole lot of pressure, just barely touching it. Tighten that bolt down. With everything up, you can tighten this nut here.
Then on your front channel, push it in slightly to make sure it's engaged with the glass. Not too much pressure, just barely in contact. Tighten up your top bolt. Then tighten up your bottom bolt. Come back in, tighten up your window guide and test it for proper operation. Jeff, everything look good out there? Because it looks good over here.
It looks like it's sealed up perfect over here.
All right, man. Well, we have completely gone through this door, new window motors, new door lock actuators, new guide bushings, and a new run channel weather strip.
Now, for more videos, make sure you check out our YouTube channel and latemodelrestoration.com.
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