How To: Install Mustang J&M Rear Lower Control Arms (79-98)

Posted 10/26/2015 by Landan Durham

Increase traction and reduce wheel hop with J&M's 1979-1998 Mustang rear lower control arm kit!

FOLLOW: mustang , 79 93 mustang , 94 04 mustang , fox body , fox body mustang , sn95 , sn95 mustang , suspension , rear control arms , control arms

J&M Rear Lower Control Arms

J&M Products has been a world leader in the design and manufacturing of automotive suspension since 1996. Their products are built in modern production facilities, have years of research and a constant commitment to innovative technologies and manufacturing methods.

Each J&M non-adjustable lower control arm is designed with the exact same tubular construction and a black powder coated finish. Both control arms will feature a unique three piece poly-ball bushing that incorporates a very hard inner polyurethane ball which is surrounded by softer, outer bushings. This combination allows the bushing to articulate like a spherical bearing when cornering. The inner ball does not allow the bushing to deflect during acceleration which helps achieve a firmer launch.

The only subtle difference between the two J&M non-adjustable rear lower control arms is that one will include the three piece poly ball bushing in the front and rear of the control arm. Whereas, the other will have the three piece poly setup in the front and a spherical bushing assembly in the rear where it bolts to the axle. This J&M control arm is great for you guys that really like to track your car or for cars that don’t see much street duty. Since there is a spherical bushing in place of the conventional poly bushing; noise, vibration, and harshness will be more noticeable.


Required Tools

  • Jack
  • Jack Stands
  • Pry Bars
  • Open-End Wrench Set
  • Ratcheting Wrench Set
  • Torque Wrench
  • 4" 2x4
  • Dead Blow
  • Wobble Socket
  • 1/2" Breaker Bar
  • 1/2" Socket Wrench
  • Shop Towels
  • WD-40

  • Installation Instructions

    1. To begin installation, get the car on a lift or as high as you can on jack stands.
    2. Remove both rear wheels.
    3. Support the rear end with pole jacks or a jack if you’re working from the ground.
    4. Loosen and remove the sway bar hardware.
    5. Two 15mm bolts will be on each rear lower control arm.
    6. Remove the sway bar from the car.
    7. With a combination of a 15mm open end wrench on the bolt and an 18mm socket on the nut, remove the lower shock hardware.
    8. Pop the shock out of the mount on the axle.
    9. Do the same for the other side.
    10. Remove the quad shock hardware and then remove the quad shock from the car.
    11. Do the same for the other side.
    12. Lower your jacks supporting the rear end enough to remove the spring.
    13. Remove the springs from both sides of the car.
    14. Remove the front rear lower control arm hardware first.
    15. This can be done by using a breaker bar and an 18mm socket on the bolt; which is located just inside the frame rail.
    16. Use a half inch drive socket wrench with an 18mm socket on the nut; this is located right inside of the lower torque box.
    17. Use the same combo for the rear hardware.
    18. Remove the lower control from the vehicle.
    19. Work one side at a time that way the other control will help stabilize the rear end and keep it from moving side to side.
    20. Start to prep the poly bushings for the new J&M control arms.
    21. Apply a liberal amount of the included grease to the inside and outside of the bushings.
    22. As well as the outer area of the metal shells and the insides of the lower control arm.
    23. Do the same for the other bushings and shells as well.
    24. Slide the poly urethane ball over the metal shell and make sure it is centered.
    25. Place one of the outer poly bushings over the metal shell.
    26. Position it into the lower control arm.
    27. Ensure that it is square and then tap it into the control arm.
    28. Once the ball is centered, remove the outer bushing and metal shell.
    29. Reinstall the outer bushings and then slide the metal shell back into the control arm.
    30. Lightly tap it into place with using a two by four and a hammer.
    31. Repeat these steps for the other three bushing locations.
    32. Clean any grease from the surface of the control arm with a shop towel and WD-40.
    33. Clean the inside of the frame rail and the torque box to remove any old grease and dirt that have accumulated over the years.
    34. Apply the included grease to the outside of the bushings where they will make contact with the torque box and frame.
    35. The sway bar mount is offset on the control arms.
    36. The offset side will be toward the outside of the car.
    37. Slide the control arm into place and align it with the bolt holes.
    38. Swing the arm up and slide it into the axle.
    39. A pry bar and a large screwdriver will help align the metal shell with the bolt holes.
    40. Reinstall the previously removed hardware, but do not fully tighten.
    41. Re-position the spring and make sure the lower pigtail is on the back side of the lower isolator and centered on the control arm.
    42. Jack up on the rear end and reinstall the shock to axle hardware; do not fully tighten.
    43. Repeat these steps for the other side.
    44. If you’re still using a factory sway bar, flip the speed nuts around on both sides.
    45. Position the sway bar into place and thread the bolts from the outside going in on the lower control arm.
    46. Loosely tighten all four bolts.
    47. Push up on the sway bar and then tighten down the bolts.
    48. Re-installation of the quad shock is optional.
    49. Torque the front rear lower control arm bolts to 100 ft/lbs.
    50. Reinstall your wheels and get the car on the ground.
    51. Torque the axle side rear lower control bolts to 85 ft/lbs.
    52. Fully tighten the shock to axle hardware as well.
    53. Double check everything and you’re all done.

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About the Video

How To Install Mustang J&M Rear Lower Control Arms (79-98)

Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related!

Published on 2015-10-19
Each J&M non-adjustable lower control arm is designed with the exact same tubular construction and a black powder coated finish. Both control arms will feature a unique three piece poly-ball bushing that incorporates a very hard inner polyurethane ball which is surrounded by softer, outer bushings. This combination allows the bushing to articulate like a spherical bearing when cornering. The inner ball does not allow the bushing to deflect during acceleration which helps achieve a firmer launch.

The only subtle difference between these two J&M non-adjustable rear lower control arms is that one will include the three piece poly ball bushing in the front and rear of the control arm. Whereas, the other will have the three piece poly setup in the front and a spherical bushing assembly in the rear where it bolts to the axle. This particular control arm is great for you guys that really like to track your car or for cars that don’t see much street duty. Since there is a spherical bushing in place of the conventional poly bushing; noise, vibration, and harshness will be more noticeable.

Mustang Fitment: 1979 (79), 1980 (80), 1981 (81), 1982 (82), 1983 (83), 1984 (84), 1985 (85), 1986 (86), 1987 (87), 1988 (88), 1989 (89), 1990 (90), 1991 (91), 1992 (92), 1993 (93), 1994 (94), 1995 (95), 1996 (96), 1997 (97), 1998 (98) All (Excludes 99-04 Cobra w/ IRS)
Transcript
What’s up guys? Landan here with Late Model Restoration! Today I’m going to be giving you my quick rundown on J&M’s non-adjustable, lower control arm options fitting your 1979-1998 Mustang.

J&M Products has been a world leader in the design and manufacturing of automotive suspension since 1996. Their products are built in modern production facilities, have years of research and a constant commitment to innovative technologies and manufacturing methods.

Each J&M non-adjustable lower control arm is designed with the exact same tubular construction and a black powder coated finish. Both control arms will feature a unique three piece poly-ball bushing that incorporates a very hard inner polyurethane ball which is surrounded by softer, outer bushings. This combination allows the bushing to articulate like a spherical bearing when cornering. The inner ball does not allow the bushing to deflect during acceleration which helps achieve a firmer launch.

The only subtle difference between these two J&M non-adjustable rear lower control arms is that one will include the three piece poly ball bushing in the front and rear of the control arm. Whereas, the other will have the three piece poly setup in the front and a spherical bushing assembly in the rear where it bolts to the axle. This particular control arm is great for you guys that really like to track your car or for cars that don’t see much street duty. Since there is a spherical bushing in place of the conventional poly bushing; noise, vibration, and harshness will be more noticeable.

Let’s jump over here to this ’92 coupe and I’ll show you guys how to install a set of J&M rear lower control arms. We opted for the control arm with the three piece poly-ball setup for the front and rear since this car for the most part has retired from its drag racing days.

To begin installation, get the car on a lift or as high as you can on jack stands. Remove both rear wheels. Support the rear end with pole jacks or a jack if you’re working from the ground. Loosen and remove the sway bar hardware. Two 15mm bolts will be on each rear lower control arm. Remove the sway bar from the car. With a combination of a 15mm open end wrench on the bolt and an 18mm socket on the nut, remove the lower shock hardware. Pop the shock out of the mount on the axle. Do the same for the other side. Remove the quad shock hardware and then remove the quad shock from the car. Do the same for the other side.

Now, lower your jacks supporting the rear end enough to remove the spring. Remove the springs from both sides of the car. Remove the front rear lower control arm hardware first. This can be done by using a breaker bar and an 18mm socket on the bolt; which is located just inside the frame rail. Use a half inch drive socket wrench with an 18mm socket on the nut; this is located right inside of the lower torque box. Use the same combo for the rear hardware. Remove the lower control from the vehicle. Work one side at a time that way the other control will help stabilize the rear end and keep it from moving side to side. Now you can start to prep the poly bushings for the new J&M control arms.

Apply a liberal amount of the included grease to the inside and outside of the bushings. As well as the outer area of the metal shells and the insides of the lower control arm. Do the same for the other bushings and shells as well. Slide the poly urethane ball over the metal shell and make sure it is centered. Place one of the outer poly bushings over the metal shell. Position it into the lower control arm. Ensure that it is square and then tap it into the control arm. Once the ball is centered, remove the outer bushing and metal shell. Reinstall the outer bushings and then slide the metal shell back into the control arm.

Lightly tap it into place with using a two by four and a hammer. Repeat these steps for the other three bushing locations. Now would be a great time to clean any grease from the surface of the control arm with a shop towel and WD-40. Clean the inside of the frame rail and the torque box to remove any old grease and dirt that have accumulated over the years. Apply the included grease to the outside of the bushings where they will make contact with the torque box and frame. The sway bar mount is offset on the control arms. The offset side will be toward the outside of the car. Slide the control arm into place and align it with the bolt holes. Swing the arm up and slide it into the axle.

A pry bar and a large screwdriver will help align the metal shell with the bolt holes. Reinstall the previously removed hardware, but do not fully tighten. Re-position the spring and make sure the lower pigtail is on the back side of the lower isolator and centered on the control arm. Jack up on the rear end and reinstall the shock to axle hardware; do not fully tighten. Repeat these steps for the other side. If you’re still using a factory sway bar, flip the speed nuts around on both sides. Position the sway bar into place and thread the bolts from the outside going in on the lower control arm. Loosely tighten all four bolts.

Push up on the sway bar and then tighten down the bolts. Re-installation of the quad shock is optional. Torque the front rear lower control arm bolts to 100 ft/lbs. Reinstall your wheels and get the car on the ground. Torque the axle side rear lower control bolts to 85 ft/lbs. Fully tighten the shock to axle hardware as well. Double check everything and you’re all done.

As far as installation goes guys, allow yourself roughly around three hours from start to finish. Rear lower control arms can be done in your own garage, and no specialty tools are required. There is one other thing before I let you guys go, remember to apply plenty of the included grease and that grease ONLY the poly bushings prior to install.

If you guys want to see more awesome install videos like this one, then I invite you to subscribe to our YouTube channel. Remember, head back over to the site and pick up a set of J&M rear lower control arms for your 79-98 Mustang at LMR.com!