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How To Install Mustang Lower Torque Box Reinforcements (79-04)

Posted 10/26/2015 by Landan Durham

Increase the traction and stiffness of your Mustang's rear end with a lower torque box reinforcement kit.

FOLLOW: mustang , 79 93 mustang , 94 04 mustang , fox body , fox body mustang , sn95 , sn95 mustang , new edge mustang , suspension , torque box , reinforcements

Lower Torque Box Reinforcement Kit

The lower torque box is located at the rear of the pinch welds and right in front of the lower control arm. Over time, most Fox Body’s or SN95’s have lived a fairly tough life. Numerous high RPM launches on sticky tires can take their toll on the factory torque boxes.

This particular lower torque box reinforcement kit is manufactured from eleven gauge steel, so it will add plenty of beef to those aging, factory torque boxes. They will feature bolt in installation for those that really aren’t going to launch the car hard anymore. However, I do recommend welding them into place to further maximize the strength of the reinforcements. If welding will be your go-to method on getting these torque boxes installed, make sure you grind the area clean before you weld and then apply some sort of rust prohibitive coating. On flip the side, if you plan on bolting these in, be sure and paint the brackets and support plates prior to assembly.

If you own a 94 or 95 Mustang, you will need to enlarge the opening slightly for the bracket to fit inside of the torque box. Also, you may need to relocate the anti-lock brake wires.


Required Tools

  • Jack
  • Jack Stands
  • Drill
  • 3/8" Drill Bit
  • Body Saw or Cut Off Wheel
  • Socket Set
  • 3/8" Socket Wrench
  • Rust Prohibitive Paint
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Welder (Optional)
  • Sanding Disc (Optional)
  • Razor Blade
  • Putty Knife
  • Vacuum
  • Wobble Socket
  • Safety Glassses

Installation Instructions

  1. Before you begin, take this time to paint the brackets and support plates if you are bolting them in.
  2. However, if you plan on welding you can wait until you are finished to paint.
  3. Remove the lower seat belt to floor bolt with a T-45 Torx driver.
  4. You’ll need to roll the carpet back, so removing a few scuff plate screws will help.
  5. Push the rear seat bottom toward the back of the car and lift up to remove it.
  6. With the seat out of the car, remove the lowest screw securing the rear interior quarter panel.
  7. Pull up slightly on the panel pocket and roll back the carpet.
  8. Position the jute padding out of the way.
  9. Pop the plastic pocket away from the rivet on the interior quarter panel.
  10. The driver side will have a plastic cover over the wiring harness.
  11. Remove the two Phillips head screws and then set the cover aside.
  12. Scrape away some of the sound deadening material with a putty knife.
  13. Do the same for the same for the other side.
  14. Jack the rear of the car up as high and as safe as you can.
  15. Remove the rear wheels.
  16. This torque box was previously jacked up on and caused severe damaged.
  17. We cut some of the mangled metal away and then used a few crescent wrenches to reshape the metal.
  18. This would be an area that you would want to possibly re-weld.
  19. Push the rubber body plug through the floor.
  20. Using a breaker bar with an 18mm socket and a half inch socket wrench with an 18mm socket, remove the nut securing from the lower control arm bolt.
  21. Position the plate up through the torque box.
  22. The angled edge on the torque box reinforcement bracket will sit toward the rear of the car on each side.
  23. Retighten the bolt to 100 ft/lbs.
  24. Use a three eighths inch drill bit to drill through the floor.
  25. Some of holes will be at an angle; it may help if you use a smaller bit as a pilot hole first, then drill from the inside of the car.
  26. Do the same for the other side.
  27. Back inside of the car, scrape away any remaining sound deadening material.
  28. Vacuum the area and clean the holes up with a uni-bit or a deburr tool.
  29. Align the support plate with the holes; these are not side specific.
  30. Slide the bolts through the bottom and loosely tighten the lock nuts.
  31. Tighten the hardware with 14mm sockets.
  32. Do the same for the other side.
  33. Reinstall your wheels and lower the car.
  34. Re-position the jute padding, carpet and reassemble anything in the interior that was removed.
  35. Reinstall the rear seat bottom.
  36. Double check your work and you’re all done.


Installation Diagram

How To: Install Mustang Lower Torque Box Reinforcements (79-04) - How To: Install Mustang Lower Torque Box Reinforcements (79-04)

1994-2004 Mustang ABS NOTE:

From inside the vehicle, disconnect the ABS harness connector that leads down through the torque box and temporarily remove the ABS harness and bracket from the torque box under the vehicle. Then from inside the vehicle, drill a hole for the ABS sensor harness the same size as the OEM hole down through the top of the reinforcement plate. Then from under the vehicle, drill a hole for the ABS sensor harness the same size as the OEM hole up through the support plate. Re-install ABS harness and bracket.

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About the Video

How To Install Mustang Lower Torque Box Reinforcements (79-04)

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Published on 2015-10-13
This lower torque box reinforcement kit is manufactured from eleven gauge steel, so it will add plenty of beef to those aging, factory torque boxes. They will feature bolt in or weld in installation, however we do recommend welding them into place to further maximize the strength of the reinforcements. All needed hardware is included with the support plates and brackets.

Mustang Fitment: 1979 (79), 1980 (80), 1981 (81), 1982 (82), 1983 (83), 1984 (84), 1985 (85), 1986 (86), 1987 (87), 1988 (88), 1989 (89), 1990 (90), 1991 (91), 1992 (92), 1993 (93), 1994 (94), 1995 (95), 1996 (96), 1997 (97), 1998 (98), 1999 (99), 2000 (00), 2001 (01), 2002 (02), 2003 (03), 2004 (04) All (Excludes 99-04 Cobra w/ IRS)
Transcript
Hey! What’s going on everyone? Landan here with Late Model Restoration. Today I’m going to be taking a look and installing a set of lower torque box reinforcements fitting your 1979-2004 Mustang.

The lower torque box is located at the rear of the pinch welds and right in front of the lower control arm. Over time, most Fox Body’s or SN95’s have lived a fairly tough life. Numerous high RPM launches on sticky tires can take their toll on the factory torque boxes.

Taking a closer look at this ’92 coupe, we noticed the lower control arms were completely wrecked. From the looks of it, a previous owner had some fun at the local drag strip, and someone obviously didn’t know how to use a jack. Unfortunately, these reinforcements won’t do anything for the jack mishaps. That’s going to be something you’ll have to address with a local speed shop or someone that knows how to work metal really well.

This particular lower torque box reinforcement kit will be manufactured from eleven gauge steel, so will add plenty of beef to those aging, factory torque boxes. They will feature bolt in installation for those that really aren’t going to launch the car hard anymore. However, we do recommend welding them into place to further maximize the strength of the reinforcements. If welding will be your go-to method on getting these torque boxes installed, make sure you grind the area clean before you weld and then apply some sort of rust prohibitive coating. On flip the side, if you plan on bolting these in, be sure and paint the brackets and support plates prior to assembly.

Before we begin, any of you that own a 94 or 95 Mustang will need to enlarge the opening slightly for the bracket to fit inside of the torque box. Also, you may need to relocate the anti-lock brake wires. Now, let’s get this ’92 coupe in the air and show you how to install a set of lower torque box reinforcements.

Before you begin, take this time to paint the brackets and support plates if you are bolting them in. However, if you plan on welding you can wait until you are finished to paint. Remove the lower seat belt to floor bolt with a T-45 Torx driver. You’ll need to roll the carpet back, so removing a few scuff plate screws will help. Push the rear seat bottom toward the back of the car and lift up to remove it. With the seat out of the car, remove the lowest screw securing the rear interior quarter panel.

Pull up slightly on the panel pocket and roll back the carpet. Position the jute padding out of the way. Pop the plastic pocket away from the rivet on the interior quarter panel. The driver side will have a plastic cover over the wiring harness. Remove the two Phillips head screws and then set the cover aside. Scrape away some of the sound deadening material with a putty knife. Do the same for the same for the other side. Now jack the rear of the car up as high and as safe as you can.

Remove the rear wheels. This torque box was previously jacked up on and caused severe damaged. We cut some of the mangled metal away and then used a few crescent wrenches to reshape the metal. This would be an area that you would want to possibly re-weld. Push the rubber body plug through the floor. Using a breaker bar with an 18mm socket and a half inch socket wrench with an 18mm socket, remove the nut securing from the lower control arm bolt. Position the plate up through the torque box. The angled edge on the torque box reinforcement bracket will sit toward the rear of the car on each side.

Re-tighten the bolt to 100 ft/lbs. Use a three eighths inch drill bit to drill through the floor.
Some of holes will be at an angle; it may help if you use a smaller bit as a pilot hole first, then drill from the inside of the car. Do the same for the other side. Back inside of the car, scrape away any remaining sound deadening material. Vacuum the area and clean the holes up with a uni-bit or a deburr tool. Align the support plate with the holes; these are not side specific. Slide the bolts through the bottom and loosely tighten the lock nuts. Tighten the hardware with 14mm sockets. Do the same for the other side.

Reinstall your wheels and lower the car. Re-position the jute padding, carpet and reassemble anything in the interior that was removed. Reinstall the rear seat bottom. Double check your work and you’re all done.


As far as installation goes guys, this one should take around two hours, but it is something you can do at home, in your own garage. Like mentioned early, you can bolt these in or weld them in. Ideally, I would bolt them in, and then have a buddy or a reputable shop permanently weld them into place.

If you guys want to continue watching awesome install videos like this one for your Fox Mustang, then I invite you to subscribe to our YouTube channel. While you’re at it, head back over to the site and pick up some lower torque box reinforcements for your 79-04 Mustang at LMR.com!