Mustang SVE Caster Camber Plates Install (94-04 All)

If you’ve lowered or have considered lowering your SN95 Mustang, then a set of SVE caster camber plates is an absolute must have! These caster camber plates offer maximum adjustments to get your suspension geometry properly corrected when lowering your car.

Before we get into the installation process, it’s important to note that will need to have the car aligned immediately after installing these plates. You’ll want to set them up the best you can and then drive the car down to the local alignment shop. You can set these up to Ford’s specifications or have them set to your choice, depending on the primary use of the car.

IMPORTANT: Carefully read the instructions before installing the SVE caster camber plates.

Required Tools

• Socket Set
• Rachet set or power drill
• Torque Wrench
• Jack and Jack Stands
• Playdoh (or something similar)

1. We’ll start off by discussing the main plates and the studs plates. Place the main plates on a workbench and determine which side is which. The driver and passenger side main plates will be positioned in a way so that the flat edge is facing the fender, the large radius is positioned towards the engine, and the small inverted radius will face toward the front of the car.



2. Since there are two sets of slots for camber adjustment, you’ll need to determine which slots work best for your setup. The easiest way to understand this is the overall positioning of the plate. If it’s closer to the engine, you’ll have more negative camber.



3. If it’s closer to the fender, you’ll have less negative camber.



4. Keep in mind that you also have some adjustments by moving the stud plate side to side within the factory slots in the strut tower. If the car is lowered more than three-quarters of an inch, I would start by positioning the plate closer to the fender.



5. If it isn’t that low, start by positioning the plate closer to the engine.



6. The stud plates are symmetrical in design and do not have a designated side. Just align the studs with the slots in the strut tower and install each one from underneath.



7. Starting with the driver's side, pass the stud plate through the strut tower and hold it in place with your hand. Install the correct main plate over the studs in the best slots for your setup.



8. Place a washer over each stud. Install the locking nuts and finger tighten.



9. Run this down with a 17mm deep socket, but don’t fully tighten. For a good starting point, pull the stud plate all the way to the fender until it stops. Hold this in place and then move the main plate towards the firewall as far as it will go, and then snug down the three locking nuts.



10. Moving the plate all the way to the firewall will allow us to achieve maximum positive caster, which is what we want. We’ll torque the nuts at the end of the installation.



11. Place the strut on a workbench and remove the bump cap and dust boot. Leave the bump stop in place.



12. To start out, we installed one thin spacer and one medium spacer, followed by the spherical bearing insert. Make sure the flanged side on the insert is facing down. We’ll adjust the spacers if needed in just a moment.



13. Install the strut through the bearing plate and hold it in place with your hand. Position the other bearing insert over the strut shaft with the flange facing up, followed by the large spacer.



14. This spacer will take up the remaining space on the strut shaft.



15. Reinstall the strut shaft retaining nut. Temporarily tighten the nut.



16. Reposition the ear of the spindle into the strut shaft and reinstall a bolt. Doing this will approximately locate the strut shaft in its final position.



17. Now you’ll want to take some Play-Doh and roll it into a ball that’s a little smaller than a ping-pong ball.



18. Place this on top of the strut shaft and gently push it down so that the Play-Doh doesn’t roll off.



19. Carefully lower the hood by hand and watch the strut shaft and hood position the whole way down. Whatever you do, DO NOT slam the hood! Whenever it makes contact with the latch, gently push it closed.



20. Reopen the hood and inspect the Play-Doh. Depending on how much the Play-Doh was squished will determine if spacers need to be removed or added.



21. In our case, we can remove the medium spacer from underneath the bearing and move it above it. Remove the strut from the car, and then remove the medium spacer.



22. Reinstall the bearing insert and then install the strut back into the car.



23. The reason that this step is important is to ensure you are maximizing the travel of the strut shaft. You want the top of the strut shaft as close to the underside of the hood as possible, especially with lowered vehicles. If you don’t use enough spacers underneath the bearing plate, the strut shaft will make contact with the underside of the hood, which is what you don’t want.



24. Keep in mind the small variances in OEM hoods, as well as aftermarket hoods, if you have one. Whenever the strut shaft to hood clearance checks out, you can repeat these same steps for the other side.




25. After that, you can reposition the spindle back into the strut and reinstall the hardware. The torque spec for the nuts is 148 lb-ft. Position the ABS bracket over the bolts and reinstall the nut. This torques to 21 lb-ft. Reinsert the clip and the rubber sleeve and reposition the swaybar over the end links. The end link nut is torqued to 15 lb-ft. Reinstall the wheels and tighten the lug nuts. Carefully lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque the lug nuts to spec. Factory lug nuts torque to 100 lb-ft.



26. Torque the nyloc lock nuts to 39 lb-ft.



27. Because of the nature of strut shaft retaining nuts, it’s difficult to torque these. Do the best you can and ensure they are near 74 lb-ft.



28. At this time, you can take the car to your alignment shop and have them align it to your preference or to factory specifications. After that, you’re good to go!