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How To Swap Mustang AOD to T5 Transmission: Stage 5

Created by Tyler Rodriquez
Last Updated 5/17/2021

In stage 5 of our Mustang T5 conversion, we finish up the installation of the T-5 transmission and button up the final components of the swap. This includes T-5 installation and speedometer cable installation.

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In this stage of your Mustang T-5 conversion, we install our much anticipated T-5 transmission as well as a new speedometer cable for the manual transmission.

While removing all of your parts, make sure to keep up with what went where. Labeling, taking pictures, anything else you may need to do can help save time and headaches during reassembly.

About the Video

How To: Mustang AOD to T5 Transmission Swap - Part 5 (1984-1993)

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Published on 2017-02-14
One of the more popular swaps known to the Fox platform is swapping the boring AOD automatic transmission for that of a T5. Now granted, we all prefer our own setups, and that's totally fine. But, let's be honest? Bangin' gears in a Fox Mustang is about as American as you can get!

Part 5 of the series finally closes out the entire swap. During this segment, Landan installs the T5 transmission and puts the final touches together. This also included installations of the clutch cable, speedometer cable, and speedometer gear.
What’s up everybody? Landan with Late Model Restoration. Our AOD to T5 transmission swap series has finally reached the end of road which is part 5. This segment covers T5 installation, a new speedometer cable and gear installation and the remaining odds and ends to finish off the swap. I finally made it, so let’s check it out.

Before continuing, I encourage you to watch parts one, two, three, and four to get a better understanding about the swap and to see what we’ve already covered. To this point, I have removed the majority of the interior, swapped out pedal assemblies, removed the AOD transmission, and have prepped the car for installation of the T5.

Part 5 will involve T5 install, finishing off the underside of the car, as well as the remaining components to finally put the icing on the cake. Like part 4, I used several new parts where I could and also encourage you guys to do the same.

For a complete parts list, be sure and check out the link in the video description or the card in the upper right hand corner on your screen.

Picking up from part with the pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch and bell housing installed, go ahead and grab some help from a friend.

Before installing the T5, make sure you apply a thin film of grease to the bearing retainer sleeve and splines on the input shaft.

Position the T5 transmission into place.

I did go ahead and pre-install the cross member and transmission mount prior to installing the T5.

Once you seat the input shaft into place, the cross member retaining hardware through the mounting brackets.

Tighten the hardware with a series of multiple sockets and socket wrenches.

Once that is done, loosely tighten the four transmission to bellhousing bolts.

Now torque them in a cross pattern to 45 to 65 ft/lbs.

Before going further, make sure the transmission mount is not in a bind.

If it is, loosen the retaining hardware and then retighten.

Take this time to also install and fully tighten the two bottom spacer plate to bell housing bolts.

Using a 5.0Resto manual specific back up light harness, plug the connections into the side of the transmission and on the wiring harness.

Since I kept the automatic harness and PCM in the car, I zip-tied the neutral sensing switch out of the way.
This is the connection that is plugged into the top of the transmission.

Be sure and zip-tie the backup light switch out of the way as well.

Pry back the metal body clip to free the speedometer cable.

Remove the retaining bolt that secures the cable to the frame rail via a cable bracket.

Pull the cable down and remove it from the car.

**Move the bottom bell housing bolts to the beginning of the video**

Pry open the cable bracket, clean it and set aside.

This cable needed replacing and I would advise you to do same.

If your car was equipped with a speed sensor, pull up on the hair pin clip and slide the sensor off of the cable.

Clean the sensor with quality electric parts cleaner.

Slide the new cable into the speed sensor and secure it with the hairpin clip.

Since speedometer gears differed slightly between automatic and manual transmission, a new gear is required when swapping to a T5

The small difference was that automatic transmission speedo gears had a longer shaft whereas manual transmission gears has a short shaft.

Pry off the retaining clip and then remove the gear from the cable or speed sensor.

Thoroughly clean the area and use some cable lubricant to lightly lubricate the cable shaft or speed sensor shaft.

Slide on the new gear followed by the retaining clip.

Route the cable towards the top of the engine.

Install the previously removed cable bracket.

Position the bracket on the frame rail and retighten the retaining bolt.

Slide the cable back into the metal clip.

Locate the end of the speedo cable that plugs into the gauge cluster.

Carefully remove the cable from the outer sheath.

Use some more cable lubricant and lubricate and entire cable.

Now you can slide it back into the outer sheath.

Slide the speed sensor or cable into the transmission.

Secure the cable or speed sensor with the retaining bolt.

If you’re reusing the automatic driveshaft, take this time to clean the yoke.
Apply a few drops of thread locker to the driveshaft retaining bolts.

Remember to remove any plug that was inserted into the tail shaft of the T5.

Apply a thin film of transmission fluid to the yoke and then slide it into the transmission.

Loosely tighten the driveshaft to pinion flange retaining hardware.

Fully tighten and then torque to 71 to 95 ft/lbs.

Route the clutch cable up through the engine bay.

Position the bracket onto hole in the frame rail and use an appropriate sized self-tapping bolt to secure it to the frame rail.

This bracket will sit just behind the sway bar bracket mount.

Make sure the clutch cable runs between the engine block and k-member.

Slide the clutch cable through the bell housing provision and then through the clutch fork.

Secure the cable to the bell housing with the correct retaining clip.

Now you can go ahead and reinstall the mid-pipe and tighten the retaining hardware.

Reconnect the oxygen sensor connections if equipped and secure the harnesses out of the way making sure they are free and clear of the exhaust.

If you’re working on a lift, lower the car enough so that you can remove the throttle valve cable from the bracket on the throttle body.
This done by rotating the plastic lock with an open end wrench.

Remove it from the bracket and then remove the throttle valve cable from the car.

If you’re installing a firewall adjuster, position it into place and center punch the holes.

Carefully drill them out with the appropriate bit and then secure the adjuster to the firewall with the retaining screws.

Remove the rubber firewall bushing from the cable and file down the tabs.

If you chose not to install a firewall adjuster, leave this bushing alone.

It will need to be positioned into the firewall opening and properly secured.

Once the tabs are filed down, thread the firewall adjuster all the way in until it stops.

Engage the clutch cable into the adjuster.

Inside of the car, position the eyelet on the cable over the quadrant.

To hold it in place so you can adjust the cable at the clutch fork, retain the eyelet with a rubber band.

Go ahead stab the speedometer cable through the firewall and position the new grommet into place.

Pull the cable through the firewall and the dash.

Position the cluster back into place.

Connect the electrical connections and engage the speedo cable with cluster.

Position the cluster back into place and retighten the retaining hardware.

Back underneath the car, thread the adjusting nut up against the clutch fork and give it a few tightening turns.

Follow that up with the lock nut.

Install the clutch fork dust cover and secure it with the retaining screw.

If your T5 doesn’t have a shifter, then check out our detailed installation video in the video description or the card in the upper right corner on your screen.

Once you get the shifter installed and handle, reconnect the negative battery cable and throw a seat in the car.

Start the car, and check for clutch engagement.

Turn out on the firewall adjuster as needed to achieve proper clutch engagement.

If you aren’t using a firewall adjuster, you’ll need to make adjustments at the clutch fork.

Once that is done, go ahead and reinstall all of your interior components.

Of course, take this time to upgrade anything that shows signs of age or normal wear and tear.

Get the car on the ground and take it for spin.

Do a few smoky burnouts and enjoy that T5!

That’ll conclude our AOD to T5 transmission swap! If this is something that’s on your to-do list for your Fox Body, there is one final installation note that I would like to make clear. Ford was notorious for changing small things over the course of the Fox era. With that being said, if you plan on swapping the entire PCM and harness from a manual donor car, make sure that car is the same year as yours.

Throughout the years pin outs were different, oxygen sensor wiring is different, and of course the manual harness has the optional neutral sensing switch connection. I took the shortcut route and left all of the automatic wiring and PCM in the car. I did install the neutral safety switch along with the backup light connection.

Overall, this swap is fairly straightforward guys. Yes, there were plenty of times that I wanted to throw a wrench through the door because things weren’t going my way. Don’t get frustrated and take your time. I hope you all have enjoyed watching our AOD to T5 swap series as much as I’ve enjoyed showing you. Be sure and subscribe to our YouTube channel for more awesome Fox Mustang content. And for those of you that don’t already know, keep it right here with the real Fox Mustang enthusiasts, LMR.com!