How To: Install Mustang GT Ford Racing PI Intake Manifold

Posted 5/4/2015 by Landan Durham

Replace your cracked or leaking intake manifold with this step-by-step installation guide!

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Ford Racing Performance Improved Intake Manifold

If you own a 99-01 2 valve Mustang, then your car was plagued with a factory intake manifold that featured a plastic coolant crossover. This factory crossover was prone to cracking at the front molded seam, as well as the temperature sensor and rear heater hose connection would back out from the intake.

To fix the problem, Ford took the exact design and added a cast aluminum crossover in 2002. Thorough changes were made to keep stress off of key mounting areas such as a redesigned alternator mount. So you 99-01 GT owners who could possibly still have the intake manifold with the plastic crossover, you’ll want to grab an upper alternator bracket when switching to the Ford Racing Intake Manifold. This manifold, of course, is a direct replacement for all 2002-2004 2 valve Mustangs since they were already outfitted with the redesigned manifold.

A couple of other things you may want to grab while you’re at it, would be a new thermostat and intake manifold gaskets!


Required Tools

  • Jack & Jack Stands
  • Fuel Line Removal Tool
  • 3/8" Drive Torque Wrench
  • Drain Pan
  • 3/8" Socket Wrench
  • 3/8" Extensions
  • 8mm Shallow Socket
  • 8mm Deep Socket
  • 10mm Deep Socket
  • 10mm Shallow Socket
  • 19mm Shallow Socket
  • 3/4" Open End Wrench


Install

  1. To begin installation, place the car on a lift or jack stands since we will be draining the coolant.
  2. Pop your trunk and remove the plastic trunk liner retaining screw.
  3. Pull back on the liner located on the driver side.
  4. Unplug the Fuel Pump Driver Module and the Fuel Pump Cutoff Switch.
  5. Turn the key over and hold it for a few seconds to release pressure from the fuel lines.
  6. Pop your hood and disconnect the negative battery cable.
  7. Remove the air inlet pipe from the car by loosening the hose clamps and disconnecting the attached vacuum lines.
  8. Remove the vacuum hose that was connected to the air inlet pipe and then rotate the PCV line out of the way.
  9. With a 10mm deep socket, remove the two bolts that hold the EGR Valve to the plenum.
  10. Remove the fuel injection vacuum line from the EGR Regulator Solenoid, EGR Valve and factory intake plenum.
  11. Position the vacuum line out of the way.
  12. Disconnect the passenger PCV line from the plenum and get it out of your way.
  13. Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Air Control Motor electrical connections.
  14. Remove the two throttle cable bracket to plenum bolts with a 10mm socket.
  15. Carefully remove the throttle cable spring and then remove both throttle cables.
  16. Loosen the five 8mm bolts that hold the plenum to the manifold.
  17. Lift up on the plenum and then disconnect the last vacuum line.
  18. Remove the plenum from the car and covering the intake manifold is optional since we are replacing it.
  19. Remove the four upper alternator bracket bolts with a 10mm socket and remove the bracket from the car.
  20. Roll back the power wire cover, remove the 10mm nut holding the power wire to the alternator, and then position it out of your way.
  21. Disconnect the two electrical connections on the EGR Regulator Solenoid.
  22. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the solenoid to the intake manifold.
  23. Lift up, remove the two attached vacuum lines and then remove the solenoid from the car.
  24. Remove the ground wire from fuel rail stud, disconnect the fuel pressure sensor and coolant temp sensor.
  25. Starting on the driver side, remove all eight fuel injector electrical connections.
  26. On the passenger side, remove the Schrader valve cap and carefully purge the line to relieve any fuel pressure.
  27. Have a towel ready to catch any fuel that may come out and then reinstall the cap.
  28. Remove the fuel line clip and position a fuel line removal tool.
  29. Release the fuel line and carefully remove it from the rail.
  30. Have a towel ready to catch any fuel that may run out.
  31. Cover the line with a vacuum cap and position it out of your way.
  32. Release tension on the belt tensioner, remove the belt from the alternator pulley, and loosen the two lower alternator bolts with a 10mm socket.
  33. You do not have to completely remove these from the alternator and engine block.
  34. Remove the alternator and unscrew the coolant reservoir cap to release the system pressure.
  35. Moving underneath the car, loosen the drain plug with a 19mm socket.
  36. Have a drain pan or bucket ready to catch the coolant.
  37. Allow the coolant to drain from the radiator and then snug down the drain plug.
  38. Back into the engine bay, loosen the two thermostat housing bolts with a 10mm socket.
  39. Pull the old thermostat gasket off and inspect it.
  40. - It is in your best interest to spend the money and get a brand new one.
  41. Remove the thermostat from the intake manifold, inspect it, and then set it aside.
  42. Starting on the driver side, remove the Coil on Plug bolts with an 8mm socket.
  43. Remove the nine 10mm intake manifold bolts.
  44. The two rear bolts on each side will be the hardest to remove since both are covered by convoluted tubing.
  45. On the passenger side, loosen the hose clamp on the heater hose connected to the intake manifold and position it out of your way.
  46. Have some rags ready to catch any coolant that may run out.
  47. Disconnect all of the Coil on Plug electrical connections and remove the coil on plugs from the spark plug holes.
  48. Pull up slightly on the EGR tube and lift the intake manifold out of the car.
  49. Cover any open holes in the cylinder head and vacuum or blow away any debris from the intake ports.
  50. Remove the four 8mm bolts that secure the fuel rails to the intake manifold.
  51. Remove and transfer the coolant temp sensor to your new manifold as well with a 3/4" wrench.
  52. If any fuel injectors were stuck in the factory manifold, simply pull them out and secure them back into the fuel rail.
  53. Position the fuel rails to your new Ford Racing intake manifold and tighten the previously removed bolts.
  54. Remove the rags from the intake and coolant ports and take this time to inspect your intake manifold gaskets.
  55. - For cheap insurance, and a good piece of mind, go ahead and pick up some new ones.
  56. Reposition your new intake manifold into place and torque the 9 previously removed bolts to 18.5 lb/ft.
  57. Transfer your thermostat, place your new thermostat gasket into place, and then tighten the previously removed thermostat housing bolts to 18.5 lb/ft.
  58. Reinstall your alternator and power wire, as well as the new alternator bracket for you 99-01 owners.
  59. Reinstall and reconnect everything, give it all a solid once-over and you’re all done!

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About the Video

Mustang GT Ford Racing Intake Manifold Install (99-04 4.6L)

Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related!

Published on 2015-04-27
If you own a 99-01 2 valve Mustang, then your car was plagued with a factory intake manifold that featured a plastic coolant crossover. This factory crossover was prone to cracking at the front molded seam, as well as the temperature sensor and rear heater hose connection would back out from the intake.

To fix the problem, Ford took the exact design and added a cast aluminum crossover in 2002. Thorough changes were made to keep stress off of key mounting areas such as a redesigned alternator mount. So you 99-01 GT owners who could possibly still have the intake manifold with the plastic crossover, you’ll want to grab an upper alternator bracket when switching to the Ford Racing Intake Manifold. This manifold, of course, is a direct replacement for all 2002-2004 2 valve Mustangs since they were already outfitted with the redesigned manifold.

A couple of other things you may want to grab while you’re at it, would be a new thermostat and intake manifold gaskets!
Transcript
Hey, what's going on, guys? Landam LateModelRestoration.com. Today, I'm going to be taking an in-depth look at Ford Racing's PI intake manifold fitting all 1999 to 2004 Mustang GTs. If you own a '99 to '01 2-valve Mustang, then your car was plagued with a factory intake manifold that featured a plastic coolant crossover.

This factory crossover was prone to cracking at the front-molded seam as well as the temperature sensor and rear heater hose connection with back out from the intake. To fix the problem, Ford took the exact design and added a cast aluminum crossover in 2002. Thorough changes were made to keep stress off of key mounting areas such as a redesigned alternator mount. So you '99 to '01 GT owners who could possibly still have the intake manifold with the plastic crossover, you want to grab an upper alternator bracket when switching to the Ford Racing intake manifold.

This manifold, of course, is a direct replacement for all 2002 to 2004 2-valve Mustangs since they were already outfitted with the redesigned manifold. A couple of other things you may want to grab while you're at it would be a new thermostat and intake manifold gaskets. So follow along, guys, as we walk you through step by step on installing the Ford Racing PI intake manifold on this '01 GT.

To begin installation, place the car on a lift or jack stands since we will be draining the coolant. Pop your trunk and remove the plastic trunk liner retaining screw. Pull back on the liner located on the driver side.

Now, unplug the fuel pump driver module and fuel pump cutoff switch. Turn the key over and hold it for a few seconds to release pressure from the fuel lines. Pop your hood and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air inlet pipe from the car by loosening the hose clamps and disconnecting the attached vacuum lines.

Next, remove the vacuum hose that was connected to the air inlet pipe, and then rotate the PCV line out of the way. With a 10-millimeter deep socket, remove the two bolts that hold the EGR valve to the plenum. Next, remove the fuel injection vacuum line from the EGR regulator solenoid, EGR valve, and factory intake plenum. Then position vacuum line out of the way.

Disconnect the passenger PCV line from the plenum and get it out of your way. Disconnect the throttle position sensor and idle air control motor electrical connections. Remove the two throttle cable bracket to plenum bolts with the 10-millimeter socket.

Carefully remove the throttle cable spring, and then remove both throttle cables. Loosen the five 8-millimeter bolts that hold the plenum to the manifold. Lift up on the plenum, and then disconnect the last vacuum line. Remove the plenum from the car. And covering the intake manifold is optional since we are replacing it.

Now, remove the four upper alternator bracket bolts with a 10-millimeter socket, and remove the bracket from the car. Roll back the power wire cover. Remove the 10-millimeter nut holding the power wire to the alternator, and then position it out of your way.

Disconnect the two electrical connections on the EGR regulator solenoid. Remove the two 10-millimeter bolts that hold the solenoid to the intake manifold. Lift up on the solenoid and remove the two attached vacuum lines, and then remove the solenoid from the car.

Now, remove the ground wire from the fuel rail stud. Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor and coolant temp sensor. Starting on the driver's side, remove all eight fuel injector electrical connections. On the passenger's side, remove the Schrader valve cap and carefully purge the line to relieve any fuel pressure.

Have a towel ready to catch any fuel that may come out, and then reinstall the cap. Remove the fuel line clip and position the fuel line removal tool. Release the fuel line, and carefully remove it from the rail.

Have a towel ready to catch any fuel that may run out. Cover the line with the vacuum cap and position it out of your way. Release tension on the belt tensioner. Remove the belt from the alternator pulley, and loosen the two lower alternator bolts with a 10-millimeter socket.

Remove the alternator, and unscrew the coolant reservoir cap to release the system pressure. Moving underneath the car, loosen the drain plug with a 19-millimeter socket. Have a drain pan or bucket ready to catch the coolant. Allow the coolant to drain from the radiator, and then snug down the drain plug.

Back into the engine bay, loosen the two thermostat housing bolts with a 10-millimeter socket. Pull the old thermostat gasket off, and inspect it. It is in your best interest to spend the money and get a brand-new one. Remove the thermostat from the intake manifold, inspect it, and then set it aside.

Starting on the driver's side, remove the coil-on-plug bolts with an 8-millimeter socket. Next, remove the nine 10-millimeter intake manifold bolts. The two rear bolts on each side will be the hardest to remove since both are covered by convoluted tubing. On the passenger's side, loosen the hose clamp on the heater hose connected to the intake manifold, and position it out of your way.

Now, disconnect all the coil-on-plug electrical connections, and remove the coil-on-plugs from the spark plug holders. Pull on slightly on the EGR tube, and lift the intake manifold out of the car. Cover any open holes in the cylinder head, and vacuum or blow away any debris from the intake ports. Remove the four 8-millimeter bolts, and secure the fuel rails to the intake manifold. Remove and transfer the coolant temp sensor to your new manifold as well with a 3/4-inch wrench.

If any fuel injectors were stuck in the factory manifold, simply pull them out and secure them back into the fuel rail. Position the fuel rails onto your new Ford Racing intake manifold, and tighten the previously removed bolts. Remove the rags from the intake and coolant ports, and take this time to inspect your intake manifold gaskets.

For cheap insurance and a good peace of mind, go ahead and pick up some new ones by clicking the link in the video description. Reposition your new intake manifold into place, and torque the nine previously removed bolts to 18 and 1/2 pound-feet. Transfer your thermostat, place your new thermostat gasket into place, and then tighten the previously removed thermostat housing bolts to 18 and 1/2 pound-feet.

Reinstall your alternator and power wire as well as the new alternator bracket for you '99 to '01 owners. Reinstall and reconnect everything. Give it all a solid once-over, and you're all done.

Installing this Ford Racing intake manifold is extremely straightforward, guys, and should only take you around two hours to complete. The only time-consuming part is draining and refilling the coolant system. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to drop us a comment. To see more knowledgeable and in-depth install videos, subscribe to our YouTube channel by clicking the link below or on the video description, if you haven't already done so. And don't forget to pick up your Ford Racing PI intake manifold from LateModelRestoration.com.