About The Kit |
LMR's SVE Fox Body Mustang Coyote Swap A/C Kit
In this article, we cover SVE’s A/C kits designed for Coyote-swapped Fox Body Mustangs. The back story on this one is pretty simple… Whenever Shannon, the owner of our company, fully restored Uncle Ted’s ASC McLaren Capri, a viable A/C solution was a must-have on the build list. With Scott Hubbard’s years of mechanical expertise, we were able to develop A/C kits for Coyote swapped Fox Bodys utilizing popular swap components.
So each kit consists of the core components that make up the A/C system, minus just a few things which we’ll go over later in the article. All of the kit components are currently brand new and are not remanufactured or refurbished and they include the following:
- New A/C compressor
- Fox-style condenser
- Accumulator assembly
- Manifold fitting
- 82-86 liquid line with orifice tube
- 87-93 liquid line with orifice tube
- Compressor discharge line
- R-134a pressure switch
- Pressure switch pigtail
- Compressor clutch pigtail
Small items include a manifold fitting retaining bolt and plenty of replacement o-rings if they are needed. Now we're going to take a closer look at some of these components and talk a little bit about the two different variations.
The first kit is designed for the Power by the Hour speed drive setup. This kit contains all of the core components mentioned previously and the compressor in this kit will feature a 6-groove pulley. It mounts in the factory location utilizing the brackets and belt that is provided in the Power by the Hour speed drive kit.v
The other A/C kit is geared towards generic or KRC power steering pump applications and will include a few more components since this kit will utilize a stretch belt just like a factory set up in a late model Coyote equipped Mustang. Other than the core kit components, SVE’s A/C kit for generic and KRC applications will include an A/C compressor with an 8-groove pulley which will allow for proper belt alignment, compressor retaining hardware, machined spacers to properly space the compressor away from the engine block to achieve sufficient belt tension, and a stretch belt.
What is not included with either kit are condenser brackets, PAG oil, and refrigerant. You can either reuse your existing condenser brackets if they’re still in good condition or you can purchase new brackets from us to coincide with your new a/c kit. PAG oil and R-134a refrigerant can be purchased from your local auto parts store.
Important fitment notes
Now that we’ve covered kit components, it’s time to talk about important fitment notes. This kit is designed to fit 1982 to 1993 Fox Mustangs with a few exceptions. The car must have a factory-installed air conditioning system; any system that was dealer installed will not work. Since we include both liquid lines for the two different year ranges, you’ll simply use the line that works for your car. Both the 82-86 and 87-93 liquid lines are similar in how they are shaped with the only difference being the attachment method at the evaporator. Once installed, this system will need to be filled by a licensed HVAC professional with R-134a refrigerant; the high and low side service ports are also R-134a spec.
Because of the orientation of the manifold fitting on the compressor, the front sway bar brackets will need to be removed. We would strongly recommend that you do this prior to painting the car if you’re going that route. The best way to do this is to carefully drill out the spot welds, weld them up and then paint the engine bay. For those of you that are already working with a clean canvas, you can cut these flush and touch up the area with touch-up paint similar to what we are working with on this Fox Body that we have here in the shop.
Now if you plan on running a front sway bar, then you’ll want to purchase our sway bar relocation kit. Depending on your setup, the A/C lines may have to be clocked in order to clear certain components and to ensure an acceptable fit and finish. Last thing and this is just a heads up; because of several variables with Coyote-swapped Fox Bodys, we can’t guarantee that this setup will work for everyone’s application.
Today we are going to be working with a car that is currently in the Coyote-swap process. This car is going to be a teal '93 Cobra clone with all of the modern amenities related to a Coyote swap. It is still in the early stages of completion, but most of you installing the SVE A/C kits will probably be at a similar point in your build as well. Going into this install, we would recommend pretty good mechanical knowledge and experience with HVAC components.
Before you get started, go ahead and have all of your supplies ready to go prior to installation. This includes refrigerant and PAG oil; you’ll need the PAG oil during assembly to lubricate o-rings and to fill the system with the correct amount. Throughout the installation, you’ll notice us repeat ourselves several times when it comes to cleanliness while you work, o-ring lubrication, and the clocking of the aluminum lines. We'll start by showing how the two compressors mount to the engine block and then proceed with the rest of the components.
- First, we need to prep the compressor for installation. New compressors will have a sticker indicating how much oil is inside.
- Depending on the amount of oil in the compressor will dictate how much oil will need to be added during assembly. Both of these a/c kits will require 7 ounces of PAG 46 oil which is the OEM specification for Fox Mustangs.
- Make sure that the o-rings for the manifold are lightly lubricated with PAG oil.
- Flush the manifold with compressed air and verify the mating surface is free of foreign material. Before installing the manifold onto the compressor, slide the upper bolt through the compressor and use a small zip tie to hold it in place. This will prevent the bolt from falling out whenever you go to install it. Go ahead and do this for all (3) bolts.
- Tap the (2) locating dowels into the compressor.
- Install the manifold onto the compressor. This will only go on one way as the ports are different sizes.
- Reinstall the bolt that was securing the plastic cover and hand tighten. The torque spec for this bolt is 15 lb-ft.
- Depending on the A/C kit that you purchased, a few steps will slightly differ for the compressor. If you have a Power by the Hour speed drive setup, you’ll need to go ahead clock the tube that will face up once the compressor is bolted to the engine block. To do this, insert an appropriate-sized deep socket into the tube. Attach an extension and then clock the tube towards the direction of the frame rail.
- If you’re installing the A/C kit designed for generic and KRC applications, install (3) provided spacers over the bolts that you secured in place with zip ties. There are a total of (6) spacers in the kit. If additional belt tension is needed, install all (6) of the spacers.
- Position the compressor into place and loosely tighten the bolts. Run all of them down by hand and then fully tighten.
- Now we're going to install the condenser and the brackets. Remove the upper brackets from the car if yours are still in place. First, lay the condenser on a workbench with the tubes facing toward you. Remove the caps and fill the condenser with one ounce of PAG oil if additional oil is required.
- Apply a light amount of PAG oil to the o-rings.
- Install the lower brackets. These are side-specific and make sure there is a speed nut in the correct location. Install and tighten the bolts.
- Position the condenser into the car. The tubes will be facing the engine and on the passenger side. Place the upper brackets on the condenser in the correct orientation. Slide the brackets underneath the core support. Install and fully tighten the hardware.
- Pre-fit the liquid line into position and check the clearance between the tube and the header. Depending on your setup, this will need to be clocked to move it away from the header as much as possible. You do have the option to wrap this area on the tube with heat reflective tape or tubing. However, be mindful that this stuff does could still burn or melt. Most modern cars produced today have very tight tolerances for A/C and exhaust components.
- Fill the liquid line with one ounce of PAG oil if additional oil is required, and lubricate the o-rings.
- Position the liquid line into the car. Depending on the year of the car will dictate how the liquid line attaches to the evaporator. For 82 to 86 applications, thread the nut onto the evaporator and leave it loose for final clocking of the line. For 87 to 93 cars (which is what we're working on), simply push the liquid line into the evaporator until the fitting fully seats. Verify this by pulling back on it.
- The other end of the liquid line will connect to the lower tube on the condenser and it utilizes the quick connect style fitting for both 82-86 and 87-93 applications. Clock this tube to move it away from the header.
- Whenever the tube is clocked accordingly, tighten the nut for 82 to 86 applications.
- Before installing the accumulator assembly, make note of the existing HVAC box stud that is used for the accumulator bracket. This will not be reused and can either be shortened if you so choose. A rubber vacuum cap will prevent metal-to-metal contact and unwanted rattling noises.
- Go ahead and fill the accumulator assembly with one ounce of PAG oil if additional oil is required. Lubricate the o-rings where applicable.
- Position this assembly into the car.
- Thread the fitting attached to the accumulator onto the evaporator.
- Insert the other end into the manifold fitting that is facing up. Push this until it clicks. Of course, verify it has a solid connection by pulling out on it.
- Clock this assembly as needed and then tighten the firewall fitting with an adjustable wrench.
- Prep the short discharge hose for installation. Fill it with a little PAG oil if additional oil is required, and lubricate the o-rings.
- Install the end without the service port into the open manifold fitting.
- Rotate the hose and install the other end into the condenser. Clock and rotate as needed.
- Remove the cap from the accumulator to expose the Schrader valve. Lubricate the o-ring and install the pressure switch. Hand tighten and then rotate a quarter turn.
- The (2) provided pigtails will need to be wired into your factory a/c controls. At this point, you can scan over all of your connections and perform any final clocking to the components.
- Whichever A/C kit you have, install the belts whenever you’re ready to do so. If you have a Power by the Hour setup, install the belt per their instructions. The stretch belt is easier than you think so wrap the belt around the compressor pulley or harmonic balancer. Use an appropriate size socket and break-over bar to rotate the crankshaft. As you rotate, either push the stretch belt over either pulley with your hand or a pry tool. If you’re using your hand, be careful as the belt can pinch your skin. Rotate the crank until the belt is fully seated onto both pulleys. After that, you’re good to go!
Wrapping things up here guys; if you’re wanting to have a legit air conditioning kit for your coyote-swapped Fox Body Mustang, definitely consider one of our SVE A/C solutions. Of course, have a licensed HVAC technician charge the system with R134a refrigerant whenever you get the car to where it will idle on its own. Since most of you are going to be in the middle of your Coyote-swap project, you’ll have the luxury of moving at your own pace. If you have any questions on either kit, send us an email or give us a call.
While you’re at it, check out our other articles/videos and for all things Fox Mustang; keep it right here with the Real Enthusiasts, LMR.com!