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SN95 Mustang Coyote Engine Swap Project

See our SN95 Mustang Coyote Engine Swap Project! Click now to watch videos & read tech articles to help you with your Coyote Engine Swap!

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If you are flirting with the idea of a Coyote Engine Swap for your Fox Body or SN95 Mustang, you have come to the ultimate source of Coyote Swap parts and technical information! We have accumulated technical information and install videos to assist you with all your Coyote Swap needs. Whether you have questions about fuel and brake system modifications or enjoy watching a good project car being built, check out all the informative articles below.

Each article below contains an informative video and plenty of technical information from Jmac’s years of Mustang experience. If your Stang’s power plant is lacking, then the 5.0L Coyote Swap is the ultimate engine swap for your Mustang. The 5.0L Coyote Engine packs a serious punch with its factory 400+hp. Because this engine responds well to bolt-on modifications, it is quickly becoming the favorite motor swap for Fox Body and SN-95 Mustang owners!


Introduction



We will be covering the major ideas you need to do a Coyote Motor Swap into a Fox Body Mustang & SN95 Mustang. Follow along in this multi-part series of videos and tech to learn all about Mustang Coyote Swaps. Scott Hubbard, long time friend of Late Model Restoration President Shannon Guderian, approached us with a problem. The track car he maintains and drives, owned by Warren Hall and sponsored by Late Model Restoration, had just laid it's 32V 4.6L powerplant to rest. Unfortunately, a connecting rod broke and the aluminum block now had a nice new external window for added ventilation. A problem indeed.
 
The car in question is a 1997 Mustang Cobra that started out life as a white exterior/tan interior coupe. Before it was delivered to its first owner it was painted orange, received a vinyl decal treatment, and was treated to a host of suspension and safety mods. Why would someone do this? Well, if you were the Bob Bondurant School of High Performance Driving, you wouldn't know any other way. After the cars tenure at Bondurant it was sold off and turned into a full fledged track car. The original B-head 4.6L 32V gave up the ghost and was replaced with a C-head 4.6L 32V out of an 03-04 Mach 1. Eventually it was up for sale again, which is where Warren, Scott, and Late Model Restoration entered the picture. For years, the #75 Bondurant Cobra performed flawlessly. As with all good things though, an end is inevitable.

So, that brings us back to the broken engine. What to do? Obviously, a new engine was in order. The problem was whether to replace the 4.6L with another 4.6L, or do something different. A pushrod motor was considered, but ultimately we landed on a Ford Racing Coyote 5.0L TiVCT. The allure of 400+ potential horsepower with stock reliability and driveability were just a few of the deciding factors. The fact that we could retain the existing k-member, clutch, flywheel, and transmission were huge pluses as well.

Now we know what we wanted to do, but what would we need to do it and how long would it take? The "what do we need" list started out looking like the one below.


FRPP Control Pack




With the old motor out of the way, it is time to start our Mustang Coyote swap! If you saw our Project Coyote Swap Introduction, then you know we will be installing the Ford M-6007-M50 5.0L Coyote motor into the Late Model Restoration 97 Cobra Bondurant race car. Being that this is a race car, we do have a few fewer accessories to worry about compared to your standard street Fox Body or SN-95 Mustang but we will cover all the major steps needed to do this swap on your own. One of the first and most important pieces to this swap is to install the Ford Racing Controls Pack M-6017-A504V. Ford Racing did an amazing job with their Control Pack. These kits help make the Coyote Swap a do-it-yourself project that can be done in your own garage.

While the control pack we used is discontinued, you can shop our selection of current Coyote Swap control packs.

The FRPP Control Pack includes PCM (ECU) with a Ford Racing calibration, electronic throttle control (drive by wire), accelerator pedal, complete wiring harness, OBD-II diagnostic data port, power distribution module, air intake tube, intake box, MAF sensor, and HEGO sensors. This swap requires a return-style coyote fuel system and will not work with returnless fuel systems seen on 99-04 Mustangs. If you are doing this on a 99-04 Mustang with a returnless style fuel system you will need to convert to a return style system.The Ford Racing Control Pack wiring harness is clearly labeled with the plenty of information, and wiring diagrams are included in the instructions. Built into the wiring harness are connections for all the included hardware and the non-included hardware such as an alternator, cooling fan, the starter solenoid, and more. Again, FRPP made this control pack as user-friendly as you can make it.

All you have to do is follow along with the included instructions, and you will find that the wiring is a cakewalk. In watching the video you will see that we located the OBD-II port in the engine bay for easy access is that the Mustang used for racing (this may change as we continue the build). We also mounted the PCM in the engine bay to keep it as protected as possible. We also used the SVE Coyote Swap Pedal Bracket ( SVE-9729PB) to easily mount the Ford Racing accelerator pedal into our Fox Mustang or SN95 Mustang.With the wiring harness and PCM in place, it was time to address the coyote swap fuel system needs. Again the Ford Racing instructions do a great job highlighting all the fuel systems modifications you need to start your Coyote motor up!

The PCM is calibrated for a return-style fuel system with a 55 psi delta fuel pressure across the injector. This means you will need a fuel pressure regulator that will allow you to maintain 55 psi at the fuel rail with the engine off. You will also need AN fuel rail adaptor (RUS-640853) to connect the fuel rail to the fuel system. Ford Racing states that the fuel pump requirements are 155 L/Hr minimum at 55psi. 

Headers & Clutch

Before we install the 400+hp Ford 5.0L Coyote motor in the Bondurant Cobra, we wanted to go over a few of the key pieces that are required to do a Mustang Coyote Swap in a Fox Body or SN-95 Mustang. There were a few modifications that were required to install some of these parts. Follow along in the video as Jmac shows you what parts are needed and what modifications were required before we installed the Coyote engine.

The first major component you will need to look into is a Mustang tubular k member. If you have a 96-04 Mustang, you can use your factory k member. Because our Bondurant Cobra’s suspension was built around the stock k member, we decided it was best to keep the stock k member. We encountered some clearance issues with the k member and the long tube headers. Jmac will point these out in the video. With a little mild modification to the header tube (hammering in some slight clearance), the BBK Coyote Swap headers cleared just fine. We recommend using the tubular k member to gain more clearance in your engine bay as-well-as you get the benefit of dropping a few pounds off the front end of your Mustang! If you have a 1979-95 Mustang that came with the push rod 5.0L engine, you have to use a k member designed for 4.6L mod motor.

Next up on our list was oil pan clearance. The stock Ford 5.0L Coyote oil pan would not clear the Cobra stock k member without being modified and cut up. To avoid trying to figure out exactly what needs to be cut and added, you will need to use a Coyote swap oil pan to properly clear your 79-04 k member. For this, we turned to Moroso and used their Mustang Coyote Swap Oil Pan. The oil pan will not clear the BBK long tube headers, so we made a quick trip to a local fab shop ans we were back in business! Modifications can be seen in the video.

Next up, we addressed the transmission installation. We saw no reason not to re-use a good functioning transmission, so we decided to reuse the Tremec 3550 transmission that was previously in the Bondurant Cobra. To accomplish this task we used a Quick Time Bellhousing (RM-6081). This SFI approved bellhousing came with all the needed hardware: Bell-housing, spacer plate, pivot ball, fork brackets, grade 8 hardware and install instructions. Since this bellhousing was designed for 4.6L/5.4L Ford modular motors, there was some modification needed to install this bellhousing. The spacer plate and dowel pins were both modified to for clearance – refer back to the video to see the what modifications are necessary. We used a 96-04 4.6L Mustang 8 bolt flywheel and clutch assembly to finish off the transmission set up.

The final piece we had to address before installing the motor was an important one – how to mount the coyote motor to the k member? Luckily this is much easier than it sounds. You can simply take 96-04 4.6L Mustang motor mounts, bolt them right up to the Coyote motor and you’re done. No modifications needed here!!! With all of these steps complete, we can now turn our focus on installing the Coyote into its new home. Stay tuned… it is about to get fun!!


Engine Install


If you have been following along with our Project Coyote Swap Mustang, you know it is time to install the Ford 5.0L engine in our Bondurant Cobra! We have been waiting for this day for some time now. With the BBK long tube headers, Moroso oil pan and transmission all installed, we set out to install the new potent power-plant in between the fenders.

To retain the race suspension that was already in place, we set out to keep the factory k member. This made for a tight fit when installing the motor from the top. We quickly found out that this would require us to do just a little more work to stab the 5.0L motor into our Bondurant Mustang. So Jmac rounded up some help from our general manager Scott and even got a helping hand from the camera guy.

The first step was to remove the steering shaft to give us some much needed clearance. After this, we moved on to lifting the Stang into the air. With the Stang in the air, we then moved on to removing the steering rack from the k member. Next up, we supported the k member with jacks and removed the k member bolts. With the help of the jacks, we lowered the k member down to gain even more clearance for this 4V engine to go into place.

Once we had the engine in place, we installed the k member to the motor mounts. This allowed us to properly align the k member to the Cobra with the help of the engine hoist. With everything properly aligned, we re-installed the k member bolts and steering components. The only thing left to do is address a few loose ends and fire up this motor. Be sure to subscribe and get ready for the next part. We will address brake system, power steering, connecting fuel system and much more! If you are like Jmac in the video, I’m sure you are excited to see this project almost running!!


Brakes, Power Steering, & Start Up


After a hard thrash, we were staring at a 1997 Mustang Cobra that was ready to fire its 5.0L TiVct Coyote powerplant for the first time. So we did - and it was awesome! No muss, no fuss, just turned the key and she fired right up. I wish all engine swaps went this smoothly!

Exhaust System

We were able to keep our existing exhaust and you can do the same, whether it is a full catback or dumps. We used the BBK Coyote Swap Long Tube Headers and 3" Off-Road x-pipe.

Drivetrain

We saved lots of green here by reusing the existing 8.8" rear end, Ford Racing Aluminum Driveshaft, Tremec 3550 transmission, Quick Time Bellhousing, clutch and flywheel from our previous 4.6L 4V. We did add in a Stifflers Transmission Crossmember to allow additional clearance for the massive 3" x-pipe.

Accessory Drive

We originally intended to use the FRPP Power Steering Pump Mounting Bracket, but it would not clear the anti-sway bar. Plus it would have required custom power steering hoses. So we enlisted our SVE Coyote Accessory Drive Kit to solve our problems. It moves the alternator over to the passenger side and keeps the power steering pump in the stock 96-04 location allowing us to keep the stock hoses and lines.

Oil Filter

The anti-sway bar struck again as it would not clear the stock Coyote 5.0 oil filter location. Ford Racing solves the issue with their remote oil filter adapter. It allowed us to plumb in a remote oil filter kit with our existing engine oil cooler.

Brake System

If you are converting a 1996-2004 Mustang GT or Cobra, you can retain the stock hydro-boost brake system. You can convert 1979-1993 Fox Mustang, 1994-1995 Mustang, and 1996-2004 V6 Mustang to hydroboost to keep power brakes, or manual brakes are always an option.

Cooling System

We were able to keep the 4.6 radiator, electric cooling fan, and de-gas bottle. The upper radiator hose included with the FRPP control pack worked like a charm, but the lower required a bit more thought. Luckily we found the solution with our SVE Coyote Swap lower radiator hose. If you are running power steering, you will need to fabricate a shield to keep the hose away from the pump pulley

Battery Relocation

Because of the driver side air inlet location, a battery relocation to the trunk is in order. Moving the air inlet to the passenger side isnt an option because of interference with the upper radiator hose. Also out of the question is a 79-85 battery location as the battery will hit the valve cover.

Next up for Project: Coyote Swap is a trip to the dyno to see exactly what she's putting down to the tires!


Dyno Day!


For me, dyno days are always very stressful. There is a never-ending list of things that could go wrong running through my head. On top of that, what if the car doesn't make the power you'd hoped? No one likes that letdown. All this was running through my head as we made the trip down to Central Texas Performance with Project: Coyote Swap.

Once we arrived and unloaded the car, it was only minutes before the CTP crew had the Mustang strapped down to their dyno. After a quick run to warm the fluids, a baseline pull was made. On the FRPP Control Pack tune and air inlet, she put down 420 horsepower and 408 lb/ft torque. To say we were impressed is an understatement!

We swapped out the air inlet for a JLT cold air kit and Jeff loaded a preliminary custom tune using an SCT 3015 handheld tuner. After a few more pulls and some tweaks to the tune, we had our final numbers. There was much whooping, hollering, and high fives going on once we looked at the screen. 447.4 horsepower and 411.5 lb/ft torque!!!

Right now you are probably raising the BS flag. 2011+ Mustangs don't even come close to those numbers with the same mods. You're right, but we also arent working with a 2011+ Mustang. The entire drivetrain is lighter and therefore easier to turn, reducing parasitic loss. We have a billet flywheel, Tremec 3550 5-speed transmission, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, 28-spline 8.8 rear with 3.55 gears, and a 17" wheel with a 26" tall race tire. Everything is smaller and lighter. The dyno we were on was a Dynocom and all pulls were done in 4th gear (1:1).

I'll leave you to make your own decisions from here. For us, we know the dyno is nothing more than a tuning tool and the real performance test will be on track. Stay tuned as we will be putting Project: Coyote Swap through the ringer on several road courses in the very near future!!



About the Video

Mustang Coyote Engine Swap: The Final Touches

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Published on 2013-07-30
It is time to show off the final touches on our Project Coyote Swap Bondurant Cobra. To finish off the project, we added all new decals. We got rid of the SVE 10th anniversary wheels and replaced them with a set of 18” SVE Drift Wheels. The combination of new wheels and decals really brought this race car back to life. We weren’t done there! We added a new set of black headlights to finish off the exterior.

Just because the engine swap was done, didn’t mean we were done with the performance modification. The help control the newly found power, we added a Ford Racing Brembo big brake kit (m-2300-x). If you are thinking about a Coyote engine swap for your SN-95 or Fox Body Mustang look no further than LatemodelRestoration.com for all your coyote engine conversion parts!

Big THANK YOU to the following companies for all the help with this project!
Ford Racing
BBK
Moroso
Stifflers
Quicktime
Transcript
We've crossed the finish line with our former Bondurant '97 Cobra Project Coyote Swap. All the final touches are in place and she's ready to be turned loose. The underhood came together quite nicely with some of Scott Hubbard's signature fabrication work. All new decals were applied and instead of 18-inch silver SVE Drift wheels replaced the 17-inch SVE 10th Anniversary style wheels. The front brakes were upgraded as well to a Ford Racing M-2300-X Brembo brake kit. We even slid in a new set of headlights.

Without companies like Ford Racing, BVK, Moroso, Stifler's, QuickTime, and [INAUDIBLE], a swap like this would be significantly more complicated. Don't forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel to catch future track footage of Project Coyote Swap at open track and high performance driving events. And click on over to latemodelrestoration.com to get all the parts you need for your Coyote Swap